Element Gastropub

 

Located at 421 Fayetteville Street in Downtown Raleigh, Element Gastropub serves vegan cuisine, craft beers, and cocktails from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 11-10 Saturday and Sunday. Food specials change regularly and there’s a brunch on weekends. Online ordering, outdoor seating, group reservations, and catering are available.

 

Conceptually, a plant-based gastropub screams “trying to be trendy,” but Element has been alive and thriving long enough to evade charges of faddishness. Its location — across from the City Center Marriot and a short walk from the Convention Center – is both a blessing and a curse: its proximate to everything but also in the thick of a restaurant-heavy area. Granted, none offers exactly what Element does, but unless you are specifically seeking vegan fare, it may not top your list.

 

Should you forgo the patio, Element offers an interior that suits its concept well: green trim (for the plant-based menu) and a “beer”iodic table graphic that add to a casual (read: seat yourself), comfortable atmosphere. There’s also a wall of taps, which looks impressive but may not include every draft advertised (it took my wife three beer requests to find one they weren’t out of).

 

Element’s menu is classic pub fare – apps, salads, burgers, and sandwiches – though the specials may get a bit more adventurous. My wife and I opted for a Carolina BBQ sandwich and a Nashville Hot Chickn sandwich, respectively, both with fries as our side.

 

As other reviewers noted, the kitchen here is a bit slow. The wait for our food wasn’t ridiculous, but it was long enough to be noticeable. The fries, however, were worth it. Element does them in a malt vinegar powder, and they came out perfectly crisp and addictively good. Ask for a side of ranch, and you’ll get a delicious, herby (mmm…dill) homemade concoction. The BBQ sandwich will raise the hackles of smoke-seeking purists, but it was perfectly tasty in its own right.

 

In lieu of a Nashville Hot sandwich, however, I ended up with a plain crispy chickn: no pickles, no sauce, no heat. The texture – faux meat is often hit-or-miss – was fine, but flavor was lacking. Our apologetic server offered a replacement, but having already taken a bite to confirm I wasn’t hallucinating, I opted to simply apply some Texas Pete.

Element’s atmosphere and location score points in its favor, and as a meat-eater, I didn’t find myself missing the real thing eating here. That said, I would probably only return for the outstanding fries.

42 & Lawrence

 Located at 134 East Martin Street in Downtown Raleigh, 42 & Lawrence offers coffees, teas, and pastries. It is open from 7 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 7-7 Friday and Saturday, and closed Monday. Specialty beverages rotate seasonally, and online ordering is available.

 

Named for a Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy reference (and for local roaster Larry Larson), it is perhaps somewhat fitting that this gem of a coffee shop has become our annual post-GalaxyCon caffeinate-and-cool off destination. While it boasts a sleek modern ambiance and welcoming staff, the biggest draw can be summed up in two words: coffee flights. With options including nitro cold brews, draft lattes, and more, this is a great way to sample a bit of everything and still get your caffeine fix. They are my wife’s go-to order while I usually opt for one of the seasonal drinks. The orange creamsicle I tried during our most recent visit isn’t something I would repeat, but I do credit them for trying out a variety of syrups and flavors.

 

There are plenty of coffee shops in Downtown Raleigh, but if you can abide by the limited seating, 42 and Lawrence offers all the strong coffee, inventive flavorings, and charm that you need.

The Big Easy

 

Located at 222 Fayetteville Street in Downtown Raleigh, The Big Easy offers Cajun and Creole cuisine from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily. There is a full bar with craft cocktails and daily drink specials as well as live music on Saturdays. Catering and private dining are available.

 

I’m always on the lookout for Louisiana cooking and was glad to have found it in Raleigh. It isn’t the best representation thereof you’re likely to have come across, but it still made for a very enjoyable lunch.

 

Housed next to the City of Raleigh Museum, The Big Easy offers a comfortable atmosphere with low lighting and vintage photos on the walls. There is a large bar area but plenty of tables as well.

 

The menu here is true to the establishment’s concept, offering up everything from jambalayas and gumbos and etouffees to muffuletas and po boys and more. It all sounded good, but with some more walking around in our near future, my wife and I bypassed the heavier entrees in favor of two sandwiches (fried green tomato & pimento and a half shrimp, half oyster po boy) and an app (fried alligator bites).

The Big Easy’s food rates as good, not great. The po boy was generously stuffed with well-breaded seafood and featured a flavorful creole mayo. A side of slaw was nice and creamy, but it was outclassed by the other side, a wonderfully smoky red beans and rice. The tomato and pimento came on toast that held everything together well and offered a very satisfying crunch albeit at the expense of being a bit dry. The alligator bites, while not tough or unpleasant, were somewhat chewy (the dipping sauce was quite good though).

 

Given the Downtown Raleigh location, The Big Easy’s pricing wasn’t as high as expected. The alligator bites ($12.95) weren’t cheap, but they are also not something you can find easily elsewhere. The po boy was only $1 more while the tomato & pimento ran $10.95, both with sides included. We weren’t waiting long for food to come out, and Monique was a friendly and knowledgeable server.

 

They might not do the single best version of anything here, but if you’re looking for a large selection of mostly satisfying Cajun/Creole fare in Raleigh, look no further. The promise of bananas foster bread pudding alone merits a return.

The Mecca Restaurant

Located at 13 East Martin Street in downtown Raleigh, The Mecca Restaurant offers Southern food for breakfast and lunch daily and dinner every day except Sunday. There is a full bar, and private dining is available.

Calling a restaurant “The Mecca” sounds like the height of hipster pretention, but this place is very much the opposite. Founded by Greek immigrants in 1930, The Mecca is as old-school as old-school gets with classic décor, a comfortably familiar menu, and competent execution all-around.

While there are definitely more chic and comfortable places to dine, The Mecca oozes nostalgia. Red stools along a long counter, a black and white checkered floor, and heavy wooden booths give the look of a place untouched by time. The menu is equally immune to faddishness, offering Southern favorites (fried chicken, fried fish, and chopped BBQ), a few nods to the founders’ heritage (a Greek salad and Zorba’s beef tips), and the eyebrow-raising Garry Dorn burger (a veal cutlet sandwich).

Hungry from wandering around GalaxyCon, my wife and I bypassed sandwiches in favor of platters: fried fish and BBQ, respectively. Both came with a hushpuppy, slaw, and two sides (mac n cheese for both of us, butter beans for her, and fried okra for me). While neither dish was attractively plated, both tasted considerably better than they looked. After decades, The Mecca has making this kind of food down to a science. Both the fish and the okra were fried to a golden brown sans greasiness, the slaw was creamy, and the BBQ was not dried out. Admittedly, vinegar-based is not my preferred style, but The Mecca’s was as good as a rendition of that type as I’ve had anywhere.

For three quarters of the meal, service was courteous, prompt, and attentive. However, we made the mistake of ordering a blackberry cobbler after The Mecca got busier, and the dessert took so long to reach us that they ended up comping it. At under $3, it still would have been worthwhile, and much of The Mecca’s menu is similarly value-conscious. Both lunch dishes were under $10 apiece, and while the fried fish contained a disappointingly small amount of fish, there was still enough on the plate for a filling meal.

The Mecca is the kind of time-displaced icon that everyone should try at least once, but for those who are willing to trade innovation for simplicity, it’s more than just a novelty act.

Whiskey Kitchen

Located at 201 Martin Street near Nash Square in Raleigh, Whiskey Kitchen specializes in whiskeys, cocktails, and Southern cuisine. Patio seating and private/event dining are available. The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday and 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Monday.

Coming from Greensboro, I was skeptical that anything could match 913 Whiskey Bar without being priced into the stratosphere. Raleigh’s Whiskey Kitchen managed to match its strengths – a deep drinks menu, a more compact food menu full of delicious-sounding Southern bites, friendly service, and affordable pricing – while providing considerably more space. Even if you are not a whiskey drinker, you can find plenty to like here.

Whiskey Kitchen is a casual, seat-yourself spot, with an inviting high-meets-low motif. Think brick-and-ductwork industrial with big garage doors but also a striking mural behind a sleek, long bar. The combination proved both distinctive and inviting.

Though Whiskey Kitchen offers food all day, certain items are only available during certain times. Lunch specials run from 11-3 while dinner entrees are offered from 5-11. My wife and I came in toward the end of the lunch shift and found several possibilities from among the admittedly limited (about six items) lunch menu. I opted for a smoked brisket melt, she took on the fried chicken sandwich, and we both did side salads instead of potato wedges to assuage our guilt.

Our food came out relatively quickly, and it did not disappoint. The brisket was neither too dry nor too greasy, the sweet sauce balanced the smoky flavor, and the crispy bread held the sandwich together well. The chicken had a buttermilk and sweet tea batter, a quirky combination that was thankfully not overwhelming, and the meat was moist and delicious. Considering the quality of the food and the downtown Raleigh location, the $10 apiece charged for each sandwich+side was confusingly affordable (the chicken sandwich goes up to a less impressive $13 if ordered past lunch hours).

All told, we had a great lunch at the Whiskey Kitchen, but we also visited during an off-hour (2:30 p.m. on a Saturday). During peak times, I can imagine the acoustics being somewhat unforgiving. Time it right, however, and you won’t regret stopping by.

8.5/10

The Cowfish Sushi Burger Bar

Located at 4208 Six Forks Road in the North Hills area of Raleigh, The Cowfish Sushi Burger Bar offers salads and sandwiches, half-pound burgers, traditional sushi, and “burgushi” fusion rolls along with a build-your-own option. There is a sushi bar, a drinks menu with cocktails and spiked shakes, and an outdoor seating area. Slider specials rotate weekly.

This place is ridiculous, in the best sense of the word. A madcap fusion of East and West, kitschy youthful exuberance and serious eats, The Cowfish is an unforgettable experience if a sometimes overwhelming one.

First, a caveat: despite multiple seating areas and plenty of space, this place draws a crowd. Show up on a Saturday night, and you will face a long wait. When you check in and put your name on a waiting list, your party is assigned a cartoon fish with a terribly punny name that appears on a screen behind the hostess stand. You’ll get a text when your table is finally ready.

Given the volume, The Cowfish is as loud as you would expect it to be. At least the tables aren’t too close together, which is a welcome relief. Red walls adorned with colorful pop art and an aquarium in the center of the dining room give this place a distinctive aesthetic. Sedate it is not, but that isn’t what one should expect when dining here.

The Cowfish’s menu is impressively varied, almost intimidatingly so. Appetizers set the pace for the rest of the menu, offering Asian (edamame, togarishi shrimp), American (parmesan bacon truffle fries), and somewhere in between (crab Rangoon dip). The burgers include lamb (Mediterranean or Vindaloo) and bison as well as beef, and some of the topping combinations indulge in chorizo, pork belly, and even a full-pound Elvis-themed variant (peanut butter, fried bananas, and bacon). On the sushi side, there is a similar flair for the eclectic though classic sashimi, nigri, and rolls are also offered. Speaking of flair, the truly adventurous can go all-in for a burgushi such as a Ric Flair-inspired bison/fried green tomato/feta roll topped with jalapenos and chipotle aoli or a filet mignon/portobello/lobster roll.

The servers here are well-trained to navigate this river of insanity and will gladly run down the menu and offer recommendations. Service here isn’t what I would deem quick, but it is response enough given the volume, and it comes with an outgoing attitude that matches The Cowfish’s motif.

My first visit was in the company of my wife and two friends, and we went with the crab Rangoon dip as a starter. It was addictively cheesy with a nice parmesan crust, and the accompanying wonton crisps scooped it up without breaking. Wanting to try a little bit of everything, I followed up with a Fusion Specialty Bento Box: slider of the week, four pieces of a sushi roll, sweet potato fries, Thai cucumbers, and edamame. The slider was a tasty goat cheese/Thai sauce combo, cooked to order and well-seasoned. For the half-roll, I went with the Mark’s Roll: tuna, jalapeno, cream cheese, and scallion, coated in panko, and topped with Japanese mayo and siracha. It tasted fresh and had a good balance of hot, salty, and sweet. The sweet potato fries and sea salt edamame were both good but not outstanding. The Thai cucumbers proved to be the real star among the sides: refreshing with a nice bit of spice.

Given that everything else about The Cowfish seemed outsized in one way or another, it was no surprise that they do not skimp on portions here. Our one appetizer fed four without shortchanging anyone, and I could have easily gotten two full meals out of the bento box had I not devoured the cucumbers and sushi wholeheartedly on the first go-around. Pricing is consistent with the quantities and ingredients offered, which is to say not cheap but not exorbitant by any means. Our app was $11 and my bento box was $16.  Many of the burgers and rolls run in the mid-teens. Since we mentioned that we were visiting for my wife’s birthday, The Cowfish also comped us a slice of very nice – and very dense – chocolate cake.

If you are seeking a quiet meal or a quick one, cross The Cowfish off your list. Ditto if you are a traditionalist to the extent that fusion concepts leave a bad taste in your mouth. But if you are open to trying some unique combinations in a fun environment (and willing to wait to do so), The Cowfish is sure to make for a memorable meal.

8.25/10

NC Wine, Cheese, and Chocolate Festival

Located at the Lafayette Village shops, the second annual iteration of this event promised tastes of locally made wines, cheeses, and chocolates as well as live entertainment.

Though a fine idea on paper, this proved to be one of the worst run events I ever attended. Event organizers clearly oversold tickets, which resulted in problems from the start: namely, a lack of onsight parking. Thankfully, the weather of the event date (Saturday, October 14) wasn’t unpleasantly hot, so walking a quarter mile from parking to event wasn’t the ordeal that it could have been.

The next mistake was that the event site was not big enough to accommodate an event of this size and scope. Picture, if you will, a series of small, upscale shops surrounding a central courtyard. The admissions line snaked outside the shops and was routed into the shopping center’s business offices before spilling out into a chokepoint and then, finally, the courtyard. The courtyard itself contained a handful of vendor tents (two to three wineries, one chocolatier, one cheese person, one milkshake person), which resulted in massive, snaking, criss-crossed lines and many disgruntled attendees.

Lastly, the cost of admission ($26.50 per ticket at an early-bird rate) provided a poor value. Attendees received twelve sample tickets, which wouldn’t have been a problem had not the wineries offered such small pours.

Despite the chaos and disappointment, not everything at the Wine, Cheese, and Chocolate Festival was a bust. The chocolate-covered bacon was delicious as was the smoked gouda, Chatham Hill winery offered a nice peach wine, and a number of the vendors seemed quite genial.

All told, however, this “festival” had little to recommend it. It seemed less a chance to celebrate local food and drink and more a cash grab and cynical ploy to drive up business in Lafayette Village. A bonus penalty goes to the organizers initially scrubbing negative reviews from the event’s Facebook page (several are currently visible on the organization’s Facebook though).

3.75/10