Located in the Salem Bottleworks at 845 South Poplar Street in Winston-Salem, Grandpa Joe’sSlaberia specializes in focaccia pizza. It is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 to 10 Friday and Saturday, and closed Sunday and Monday. There are multiple seating areas.
The owners of Bobby Boy Bakeshop opened this pizzeria a year ago, and I regret that it took me this long to check it out. Housed in a former Coca-Cola bottling plant, Grandpa Joe’s pays homage to the site’s history through its red and black décor. The menu offers salads, floats, and soft serve though pizza is the star attraction. It is served by the rectangular slab (about $8 per). Order at the counter, grab a number for your table, and wait for the oven to work its magic.
For our
first visit, my wife and I split a trio of slabs — an Italian sausage, a
mushroom, and a tomato and burrata — with a side of marinara. All three were
excellent. The focaccia crusts were crispy while still retaining airiness. From
melty mozzarella to savory, fennel-forward sausage, Grandpa Joe’s uses
high-quality ingredients. The marinara was good: bright, fresh, and just a bit
sweet. The mushroom slab came topped with arugula and shaved parmesan. Despite
seeming like a gimmick (pizza? Salad? Why not both?), it proved an effective
combination: the arugula’s bitterness played well with the mushrooms’ earthy
flavors.
There will
be a certain type of pizza connoisseur for whom anything that isn’t New York
style is, by definition, fraudulent. For those with horizons broad enough to
enjoy a thicker crust, Grandpa Joe’s is the best of that kind that I’ve found
in the Triad.
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