The Nomad

Located at 122 West King Street in Hillsborough, The Nomad offers globally influenced small plates and craft cocktails. It is open from 4:30-9:30 p.m. Wednesday through Friday and 12-9:30 p.m. on Saturday. Indoor (via reservation) and outdoor seating are available as is online ordering.

 

A relative newcomer to the Hillsborough dining scene, The Nomad is the latest establishment from the team behind the Viceroy in Durham and the TanDurm food truck. As the name suggests, it features foods that tend to wander from one cuisine to the next (i.e. Indian meets Latin). It’s an ambitious concept, but the folks here have the chops to make it work.

 

They also happen to be friendly and welcoming people. We happened to wander by shortly before lunchtime opening on a Saturday just to check out a menu, and one of the owners offered a warm greeting. Our server was attentive and provided several helpful food and drink suggestions.

 

At a place like this, those suggestions can come in handy as the vast majority of The Nomad’s offerings sound appealing. Though the menu isn’t large, it offers a little bit of everything, including vegan and gluten free options. You can embrace the familiarity of a classic chicken pakora or masala or battered fish taco branch out into one of the fusion dishes like Thai chimichurri steak or paneer pimento.

 

We opted for a few small plates for our first time out, and though it was a tough decision, we settled on sweet potato-stuffed kolaches, fried yuca poutine, and Korean esquites. Food came out quickly and did not disappoint. The kolaches were thick and pleasantly doughy with a warm, curried filling. Yuca sticks made for an excellent potato substitute in the poutine, and the mushroom gravy was rich and savory even if the mushrooms were a bit chewy. The esquites (de-cobbed Mexican street corn) brought heat from its Gochujang sauce and dusting of chili lime, but the refreshing crema kept it from overwhelming the palate. While Korean tacos/burritos are nothing new, this particular Korean-Mexican combination was like nothing I’ve seen elsewhere. My wife also enjoyed the Salted Fig cocktail.

 

Hillsborough being Hillsborough, The Nomad isn’t exactly cheap, but it also is worth the money spent. You’re looking at $8-$10 for small plates, and three were enough to feed two hungry adults. Entrée-sized rice bowls run in the teens.

 

Opening amid the COVID pandemic has undoubtedly been a brutal experience for many restaurants, but from innovation to food quality to service, The Nomad has all the looks of a keeper. I look forward to returning the next time I’m in Orange County.

Antonia's

Located at 101 N. Churton Street in downtown Hillsborough, Antonia’s serves Italian cuisine for dinner Tuesday through Sunday. There is a full bar, drink specials on Wednesdays (half-priced wine) and Thursdays ($5 martinis), and occasional live music. Food specials change regularly, and private dining for events is available, as is limited outdoor seating.

Antonia’s is a charming eatery that checks most of the boxes for a great dining experience. The food is delicious, the service is attentive, and the pricing, while not cheap, does not instill regret. It is, however, both a small (albeit handsomely appointed) space and a popular one, so you may find yourself nearly elbow-to-elbow with a neighboring table (if you are able to get a table). Fortunately, this is the only real blemish.

The menu here pays homage to the classics while still offering a few departures. Bruschetta, an antipasto platter, and lasagna Bolognese can all be found here, but you can also build your own pasta dish, go vegetarian or gluten-free, or treat yourself to a steak. Many of the ingredients are sourced locally, including meats from Greensboro’s sainted Giacomo’s.

For our first visit, my wife and I opted for a starter of pork meatballs in a parmesan truffle cream sauce, sausage with polenta, and a squash cannelloni (on special). The meatballs were quite tasty, and the sauce, while rich and buttery, was not as heavy as expected. The polenta was cooked perfectly and paired well with slightly sweet sauce and fresh-tasting vegetables (not to mention nice spicy sausage). The pasta’s sauce was creamy, and the dish was not overwhelmingly sweet. We followed up with an order of tiramisu – decadent – and my wife raved profusely about the Lady Godiva, a chocolate liquor-infused coffee.

Carrie provided friendly and attentive service throughout the meal, and one of the owners (presumably) could be found making her rounds and chatting with her regulars. Our total came out to $60 pre-tip, which for an appetizer, two entrees, a dessert, and a spiked coffee, was certainly fair.  

Italian restaurants are not a rarity by any means, but those that execute as well as Antonia’s does seem to be headed that way.

8.25/10

Jimmy's Famous Hot Dogs

Located at 370 S. Churton Street in Hillsborough, Jimmy’s Famous Hot Dogs specializes in hot dogs but also serves burgers, chicken, fish, and milkshakes. It is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Carryout catering is available in the form of tailgate specials.

This is the first Hillsborough location of Jimmy’s, which originated in Durham. It has the look and feel of a retro-style fast-food chain a la Freddy’s or Hwy 55, but it is, so far, strictly a local(ish) operation. As with other eateries in that vein, Jimmy’s is somewhat kitschy but it is at least clean. Counter staff are polite, and food prep is quick and efficient.

As hot dog places go, Jimmy’s is low-key and no-frills. Do not come here expecting pretzel buns or exotic toppings. Yet this does not mean that there is no variety to be found. Dogs are pork or Nathan’s all-beef, and they can be prepared N.Y. style (mustard and sauerkraut), Cowboy style (jalapenos, chili, and cheddar cheese sauce), plain, or all the way (mustard, chili, slaw, and onions).

For my first visit, I went with a #1 combo: two dogs (all the way), a drink, and fries. The dogs were tasty and satisfied a craving. The crinkle-cut fries, while not terrible, were unimpressive. It was hard to argue with the price charged, a mere $6.09.

Hillsborough is not known for super-affordable dining options, so Jimmy’s fills a need. It isn’t fancy, but it’s good for a quick bite.

7.5/10

The Village Diner

Located at 600 W. King Street in Hillsborough, The Village Diner offers Southern fare for breakfast and lunch seven days a week. Food specials change regularly.

This decades-old greasy spoon was recently taken over by Joel Bohlin of the Fetch Hot Dog Co. food truck, who looks to provide some much-needed renovation and rehabilitation. As of January 2018, this is very much a work in progress. Only half of the building is open, the menu is limited, and the staff is still getting its bearings. However, if the food quality offers a glimpse of something to look forward to when the update is complete.

From the outside, the nondescript diner looks unchanged and untouched by time. The inside maintains a homey feel (brick walls and minimal décor) albeit with a few updates (i.e. hanging mason jar lights). It’s currently a smallish space, but that will change when the revamp of the currently-closed main dining room is complete.

Speaking of small, don’t expect an expansive menu during the revamp (or many meatless options, for that matter). What is offered, however, fits The Village Diner’s concept well: fried chicken, meatloaf, Southern sides (collards, green beans, etc.) and a few sandwiches were among the lunch offerings. Those seeking a homestyle meal will not be disappointed.

For our first time in, my wife and I opted for the Reuben and the chili dog, respectively, both with home fries as the side. The Reuben was a good-sized sandwich, none too greasy, with a quality dressing. The chili dog was beer-infused for extra flavor and had a firm bite. The fries were crisp and well-seasoned, and a tiny portion of slaw generated no complaints.

Those accustomed to the old Village Diner’s pricing are likely in for some sticker shock. My chili dog/fries/bit of slaw ran $7.50 while the Reuben and fries was north of $10. While not outrageous, these prices are definitely reaching given the location.

In its current state, The Village Diner is a worthwhile – if limited and slightly overpriced – lunch option. However, when the revamp is complete, it has the potential to be something considerably more.

7.5/10

Saratoga Grill

Located at 108 South Churton Street in downtown Hillsborough, Saratoga Grill specializes in seafood but also offers sandwiches and salads. The restaurant is open for lunch Monday through Saturday and for dinner Wednesday through Saturday. There are discounted wines on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and a $10.25 early dinner menu is offered from 5-6:30 p.m. Beer and wine are available.

Dining at the Saratoga Grill is both literally and metaphorically an up-and-down experience. It is located above a shop and accessible via a narrow stairway. Upon reaching the top, you’ll find yourself in a tastefully decorated loft area-turned-dining room. The wall art and lights make for a homey, welcoming feeling. However, in lieu of a hostess stand, you are asked to wait by a small table against the far wall, which puts you awkwardly in the path of servers moving to and fro. Tables are also positioned somewhat close together though not uncomfortably so.

Once seated, you’ll encounter a menu full of classics: clam chowder, French onion soup, a Reuben, a burger, etc. The selection of fish and seafood (including a honey almond salmon and a few scallop dishes) is commendable though, and vegetarians can find solace in a portobello sandwich and a few salad offerings.

For my first visit, I went with a crab salad half sandwich with a cup of French onion soup and a mixed greens salad. The food was competently prepared but unremarkable. The sandwich, as expected, was faux crab, and neither it nor the soup or salad were elevated in any way. However, my wife reported that the hot pastrami sandwich that I brought her was quite tasty.

The pedestrian food here is partially offset by very affordable prices. Whole sandwiches with salads run $8 and under, and for that price, you can substitute a half sandwich and soup while keeping the salad. Downtown Hillsborough is not known for frugality, so this was a welcome surprise.

Saratoga Grill seems to do a fairly brisk lunch business, and, as such, the kitchen moves at a pace that reflects the volume. Servers are friendly and attentive though, and you won’t go without water whilst waiting for that food.

Overall, Saratoga Grill is hard to pin down. The pricing and availability of seafood dishes are certainly draws, but the so-so food and quirky layout/location are causes for hesitation.

7.25/10

Cup a Joe

Located at 112 West King Street in historic downtown Hillsborough, Cup a Joe offers coffee drinks, teas, and baked goods. It is open from 6 a.m. (7 a.m. on weekends) to 6 p.m. seven days a week, and limited outdoor seating is available.

Last year, this popular Hillsborough coffee shop moved a few doors down to its current, more spacious location. “More spacious” is a relative term, for while there is definitely more space and more seating than there was previously, it is still easy to find yourself without a chair to claim.

This gripe aside, there is a lot to like here. The regular menu has a commendable assortment of caffeinated drinks, and cases by the register are typically filled with tantalizing cookies, muffins, and cakes (my wife swears by the salted chocolate chip cookies). A brightly colored chalkboard behind the register advertises limited-time only custom creations, which recently included a white chocolate cocoa with Lucky Charms (add an espresso shot to ensure you won’t tire any time soon). Prices are not bad by downtown Hillsborough standards, and staff are friendly and helpful more times than not.

Provided you can find a place to sit, Cup a Joe is a comfortable, reliable purveyor of caffeine and sugar in both liquid and solid forms.

8/10

Bona Fide Sandwich Co

Located at 104 North Churton Street in downtown Hillsborough, Bona Fide Sandwich Co serves sandwiches, bowls, salads, and sides from 10:30 to 4 every day. It is takeout-only: no seating is available.

Every town or city center needs a reliable sandwich shop, and on the surface, Bona Fide seems to fit the bill quite nicely. The location (walkable from most of Hillsborough’s landmarks) is tough to beat, and the menu is varied and appealing. Not only is there a good balance of classics (a Reuben, an All American Sub, an Italian Hero) and vegetarian options (5-Spice Banh Mi, Drunken Grilled Cheese), but there are also more eclectic combinations with names that project a sense of fun. The Werewolves of London, for instance, mixes roast beef and ale mustard with pickles and arugula.

Unfortunately, almost every other aspect of Bona Fide was a letdown. One does not expect a takeout-only place to be capacious, but Bona Fide fills so easily that there is no room to form ordering or waiting lines; customers tend to huddle around. This would be a lot less of a problem if it weren’t for the fact that on summer days, the restaurant gets uncomfortably hot. Whether this is a ploy to sell drinks or an abundance of faith in the efficacy of a box fan is anyone’s guess.

My craving for an Italian sandwich was strong enough to motivate me to brave the wait. The price charged ($7 for an eight inch with no sides; the footlong went for $13) was steep but not outrageous by Hillsborough standards, and the staff seemed hardworking and genial. The actual sandwich was something of a mixed bag. On the one hand, it had a good mix of ingredients (salami, mortadella, ham, peppers, arugula, and provolone), and everything tasted fresh. On the other hand, it was lacking a certain zest, and it ultimately paled in comparison to Giacomo’s rendition.

I wanted to like Bona Fide, and had I arrived when it was less hot and less crowded, I may have. The location and menu make it worth another shot as do the quality of the ingredients, but pricing and taste both leave something to be desired.

7/10

Bandido's Mexican Cafe

Located at 122 South Churton Street in downtown Hillsborough (with an additional location on Franklin Street in Chapel Hill), Bandido’s Mexican Café offers Tex-Mex cuisine for lunch and dinner. There is a full bar, food specials rotate monthly, and catering is available. The restaurant will also award a T-shirt to anyone who can successfully eat the “El Gigante” burrito in one sitting.

Faced with a stereotyped view of Mexican cuisine, some Mexican eateries will do everything they can to give gringo patrons a reality check and introduce them to life beyond burritos and tacos. Bandido’s is not one of those places. That isn’t to say that the food is uninspired but rather that the restaurant, at least to some extent, appears to embrace the cliché. If the giant bandito statue by the front window doesn’t convince you, the sombrero-wearing chili pepper on the menu will. Ironically, this kitsch makes Bandido’s stand out. It and the vibrantly colored interior give the restaurant an identity that stands apart from the Tarheel State’s myriad faux-cantinas.

Bandito’s menu has a lot of familiar favorites as well as a few unexpected surprises. Burritos, enchiladas, and fajitas can all be found here, but so can a cheeseburger with quesadillas in place of buns and ice cream in a tortilla bowl with raspberry-habanero sauce. I opted for a shrimp chimichanga during my first visit and was not let down. While the seasoning could have been more robust, they didn’t skimp on the shrimp, and the crunchy-cheesy combination satisfied in a guilty pleasure sort of way.

Neither pricing nor service left much room for complaint. My chimichanga – with lettuce, tomato, guacamole, rice, and beans – came out to $13, a fair price given the amount of food on the plate. Our server was welcoming and attentive without being overbearing.

Colorful and comforting, Bandito’s has the makings of a reliably good Mexican restaurant. The food leans more toward solid than spectacular, but if you’re in the Hillsborough area, ven aca.

7.75/10