The Village Diner

Located at 600 W. King Street in Hillsborough, The Village Diner offers Southern fare for breakfast and lunch seven days a week. Food specials change regularly.

This decades-old greasy spoon was recently taken over by Joel Bohlin of the Fetch Hot Dog Co. food truck, who looks to provide some much-needed renovation and rehabilitation. As of January 2018, this is very much a work in progress. Only half of the building is open, the menu is limited, and the staff is still getting its bearings. However, if the food quality offers a glimpse of something to look forward to when the update is complete.

From the outside, the nondescript diner looks unchanged and untouched by time. The inside maintains a homey feel (brick walls and minimal décor) albeit with a few updates (i.e. hanging mason jar lights). It’s currently a smallish space, but that will change when the revamp of the currently-closed main dining room is complete.

Speaking of small, don’t expect an expansive menu during the revamp (or many meatless options, for that matter). What is offered, however, fits The Village Diner’s concept well: fried chicken, meatloaf, Southern sides (collards, green beans, etc.) and a few sandwiches were among the lunch offerings. Those seeking a homestyle meal will not be disappointed.

For our first time in, my wife and I opted for the Reuben and the chili dog, respectively, both with home fries as the side. The Reuben was a good-sized sandwich, none too greasy, with a quality dressing. The chili dog was beer-infused for extra flavor and had a firm bite. The fries were crisp and well-seasoned, and a tiny portion of slaw generated no complaints.

Those accustomed to the old Village Diner’s pricing are likely in for some sticker shock. My chili dog/fries/bit of slaw ran $7.50 while the Reuben and fries was north of $10. While not outrageous, these prices are definitely reaching given the location.

In its current state, The Village Diner is a worthwhile – if limited and slightly overpriced – lunch option. However, when the revamp is complete, it has the potential to be something considerably more.

7.5/10

Four Flocks and Larder

NOTE: This establishment has stopped accepting Groupons.

Located at 433 Spring Garden Street in Greensboro, Four Flocks and Larder specializes in poultry and Southern fare. It is open for dinner seven days per week and also offers a weekend brunch. A full bar with a juleps menu is available as is patio seating.

Four Flocks and Larder is one of several (alongside Revolution Burger and the Baker and the Bean) establishments that Fresh Local Good Food Group opened in the old Morehead Foundry Building last year. My previous experiences at FLG eateries have been somewhat mixed, and Four Flocks proved no exception. In this case, that translates to good, but not as good as it could have been.

This fairly spacious restaurant is homey, bright, and inviting if a bit quirky. There is a market area, a large bar, and plenty of tables. The wood shelves and other touches give off an appropriately rustic feel and the carved birds up front definitely stand out. The overhead ductwork, however, serves as a reminder of this space’s industrial origins.

Four Flocks’ menu gathers an enticing collection of small plates, sides, salads, soups, and breads. Poultry is the star here, and chicken (fried chicken, chicken and dumplings, smoked wings), duck (roasted duck breast, spaghetti and duck meatballs), turkey (turkey frittes), and quail (cornbread stuffed) are all represented here. They also do ribs, beef fillet, shrimp and grits, and very few vegetarian dishes (most notably, a blackeyed pea ravioli). Decisions did not come easily.

Ultimately, my wife and I split a sea salt bread pot starter, a cup of pumpkin soup, pan roasted duck breast, southern fried chicken, and a side of white cheddar mac and cheese with country ham. The bread was deliciously flaky and came with a nice herb butter. The soup was a generous portion (the “cup” was a deep turret-shaped vessel), hearty, and comforting. The duck didn’t top Undercurrent’s version, but it was still very good in its own right: fatty and flavorful and paired well with a cherry sauce and Brussels sprouts (the latter of which I enjoyed despite finding that thought inconceivable a year ago). The mac and cheese is an addictive homestyle preparation, and the ham adds a smoky, salty touch.

Unfortunately, for as good as these dishes were, not everything was a hit. The fried chicken looked appealing, and it thankfully wasn’t dried out, but it was thinly battered and, disappointingly, very bland. In addition, the accompanying grits seemed like they used enough butter to make Paula Deen blush.

Four Flocks was not remotely busy during the time of our visit, which meant we didn’t have to wait very long for our food (something I sensed would not be the case otherwise). Our server, Brooks, did an excellent job, and we have him to thank for recommending the bread pot and the mac and cheese. Pricing proved to be surprisingly affordable: all of our food (a bread, a soup, a side, and two plates) ran under $40 pre-tip.

As with other FLG eateries, the menu and concept hold lots of appeal, and Four Flocks has the best food, ambiance, and service of any in the group. However, it’s still several inconsistencies away from flying high and realizing its full potential.

7.75/10

Sweet Potatoes

Located at 529 N. Trade Street in Winston-Salem’s Downtown Arts District, Sweet Potatoes offers Southern-inspired cuisine for lunch and dinner. There is a full bar, daily specials, and a Sunday brunch.

In homestyle Southern cuisine, execution is everything. Those who grew up with a grandparent’s recipes will have a strong basis of comparison. Those who didn’t may need a considerable amount of pull to be converted. Thankfully, Sweet Potatoes has the chops (figuratively and literally – drunken pork chops can be found on the dinner menu) to please both contingents.

The restaurant’s Trade Street home isn’t very big, but what it lacks in space, it makes up for in style. Vibrant green trim and original artwork (one piece of which, admittedly, was a bit off-putting) trim the walls and comfortable jazz plays steadily in the background. Even as Sweet Potatoes fills up, it maintains a comfortable ambiance.

The menu also offers plenty of enticement. Dinner entrees include such attention-getters as a bacon-wrapped whole trout stuffed with sweet potato cornbread and crabmeat, but even the more limited lunch menu has its standouts. For our first visit, my companion and I sampled a fried green tomato and okra basket, a three-cheese macaroni and country ham soufflé, a blackened salmon Nicoise salad, and, of course, a sweet potato. The tomatoes and okra were well-breaded and held their crunch, the soufflé had both sharp and mellow notes, and the sweet potato, topped with butter and brown sugar (though additional options abound for an upcharge) was appropriately sweet. My companion’s salad had a tasty tang, but the fish and potatoes were dry – watch for potential inconsistencies.

During our visit, our server was helpful and showed good knowledge of the menu. Both pricing and wait times for the food were reasonable given the location. Salads and sandwiches (with one side) fall in the $7 to $10 range, and portions are ample.

If you’ve had good Southern before, Sweet Potatoes may not be a revelation. But assuming you can get a table, it is very likely to satisfy.

 8.5/10

The Moose Cafe

Located at 2914 Sandy Ridge Road inside the Piedmont-Triad Farmer’s Market in Colfax, The Moose Café is a “farm to table” restaurant specializing in country cooking. The restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. There is a country store on-premises, and a sister location can be found in Asheville.

At first glance, The Moose Café looks like a less corporate Cracker Barrel. The menu screams “country” and you walk by the store upon entry. However, there is much more to this establishment than meets the eye.

For starters, the variety is astounding. We arrived between breakfast and lunch and perused one of each menu, each of which came with an insert for specials. On the breakfast side, you’ll find everything from hearty combination plates (eggs, pancakes, grits, meat, etc.) to omelets and skillets. The lunch selections read like management mugged a Southern grandmother. Chicken and biscuits, pulled pork, fried chicken, collards, and slaw are all accounted for here. No matter what you opt for, you’ll be able to enjoy it with complimentary biscuits and apple butter, both of which taste fresh, homemade, and delicious.

Whatever you pick, you will likely receive lots of it. Portion sizes are plentiful, and the pricing is unbeatable. The lunch plates typically range from $7-$8 and include two sides and cornbread. Each plate easily yields two meals’ worth of food, which may make you feel bad the next time you drop $8 on a sandwich.

The execution here is mostly spot-on. Though “homemade” is often an empty buzzword, the farmer’s market location adds credence to the concept, and several items can be sourced to specific local farms. Plus, your taste buds will do their own convincing. The pulled pork had a pleasantly surprising sweetness, the sweet potato casserole (made from roasted potatoes) was smoky and melt-in-your-mouth good, and the fried green tomatoes were simply but enjoyable. Even the few missteps are forgivable. An oily succotash redeemed itself by packing an unexpected kick and creamy-but-bland cheese grits were nothing some pepper couldn’t fix. The sweet tea, served in glass jars, was the genuine article.

Given the busyness of the farmer’s market when we arrived, service was impressively quick. We were seated with zero wait time, and our food came out earlier than expected. Despite the high volume of patrons, both our hostess and our server were friendly to a fault. The one slip-up – my companion received non-sweet instead of sweet tea – was quickly and apologetically corrected.

Country cooking, perhaps understandably, gets a bad rap, but The Moose Café can make a believer out of you. If you’re at the farmer’s market, it’s a must-stop, and if you aren’t, it’s well worth the drive. What you spend on gas, you’ll save on the leftovers you’ll inevitably have, and your stomach will thank you for it.

8.5/10