Little Roadside Grill

 

Located at 1304 North Main Street in High Point, Little Roadside Grill serves American food. It is open from 11-8 Monday-Thursday, until 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday, and closed on Sunday. Food specials change daily, and online ordering is available.

Little Roadside Grill opened a few months back in the former Kepley's Barbecue spot. It lacks the former establishment's pedigree and name recognition, but it serves up similar fare: sandwiches, salads, burgers, dogs, and barbecue plates (with cobblers and banana pudding for dessert if you are so inclined). Though named for its owner Jeff Little, it isn't a large space: a long counter with stools and a few tables. The no-frills ambiance fits the restaurant's concept well.

There were few patrons when I stopped by for lunch on a Saturday, and I couldn't have asked for faster or friendlier service. I went with a chopped sandwich with coleslaw, no side, and it was prepped very quickly. You can find Lexington-style dip on the table, but other sauces are available upon request.

The sandwich was a decent size, and the meat was prepared well (chopped medium and neither mushy nor dried out) if rather bland. Adding spicy barbecue sauce (a heresy for Lexington-style fans, I know) remedied that. For $6.50, I had no complaints.

Affordable, unpretentious, and fast, Little Roadside Grill won't win any barbecue championships, but it's a solidly satisfying local option.

The Old Fourth Street Filling Station

 

Located at 871 West Fourth Street in Winston-Salem’s West End, the Fourth Street FillingStation offers American cuisine for lunch and dinner. It is open from 11-9 Monday-Thursday, 11-10 on Saturday, and 11-3 for brunch on Sunday. Online ordering, reservations through Open Table, and outdoor seating are available.

While the name calls to mind a gas station-turned-pub, the Fourth Street Filling Station is a bit more upmarket than that. It isn’t fine dining but rather a place where you can get a steak. The worst that can be said about this place is that it isn’t terrible innovative: apps, salads, sandwiches, a few seafood and pasta dishes, and the aforementioned steaks. In the grand scheme of things, however, there are far greater culinary sins than not offering anything unique.

The Filling Station boasts a spacious patio, and even as it got busier, our group of four was able to enjoy a comfortable meal. Our server was friendly and helpfully offered drink recommendations, and the kitchen didn’t leave us waiting long for our food.

The menu boldly claims Winston’s Best Calamari, so we decided to put that to the test. While there may be a match out there somewhere, the Filling Station’s version is quite good: a generous portion, well-breaded, not overcooked, and paired with both a superb cocktail sauce and a tangy remoulade. My entrée – a jambalaya – was likewise very satisfying. I’ve had jambalayas that were disappointingly dry, and I appreciated the gravy in this one. Though it offered no heat, it was still flavorful, and the shrimp were sizeable.

 

The Filling Station isn’t cheap – most entrees in the twenties and sandwiches in the mid-teens – but given rising food costs, the prices aren’t out of line for what they offer.

If you’re looking for a “nice meal” destination with solid food and plenty of seating, the Filling Station presents an appealing option provided that you are OK with the somewhat predictable menu.  

Cagney's Kitchen

                                           

Located at 4005 Precision Way in High Point (with other locations in Greensboro, Winston-Salem, and Kernersville), Cagney’s Kitchen serves American cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It is open from 6-9 Monday-Saturday and 7-2 on Sunday. Online ordering is available via Doordash.

 

Even with a few closures in recent years, High Point has no shortage of Greek-influenced Southern diners, and that interchangeability is part of why I never felt a strong compulsion to pay Cagney’s a visit. Faced with a banana French toast craving, it seemed as good an option as any, and it proved to be better than expected.

 

Cagney’s is spacious and seemed even more so as it was largely empty when I stopped by on a Tuesday morning (they likely get considerably busier on the weekends). The menu is big too: breakfast options included plates, omelets, benedicts, pancakes, waffles, and more. Come here later in the day, and you can find everything from salads and sandwiches to Greek to Tex-Mex to pizza.

 

I opted for two pieces of Bananas Foster French Toast with a scrambled egg on the side. Service was fast and friendly, and the kitchen churned out the food quickly. At $8, it was practically a steal and though not the best I’ve had, it was better than it needed to be for that price point. The banana/brown sugar/whipped cream topping on the French toast made for a sweet bite, and the egg wasn’t overcooked.

 

I don’t know how Cagney’s rates as a lunch/dinner option or during busier times, but for a weekday breakfast, it’s well worth your consideration for a good bite at an affordable price.

Village Tavern

 

Located at 1903 Westridge Road in Greensboro (with additional locations in Winston-Salem and Charlotte), Village Tavern serves American fare. It is open from 11-9 Sunday-Thursday and 11-10 Friday and Saturday. There is a full bar with daily drink specials. Patio seating, online ordering, and online reservations are available, and a brunch is offered on Sundays.

 

Since opening up shop in Winston-Salem forty years ago, Village Tavern has expanded to include eight locations. Perhaps because of its longevity, the impression I got of it was of a dated brunch/lunch spot patronized by well-to-do seniors, and so it never claimed a high spot on my to-try list. After paying the Greensboro location a visit, however, that perception has somewhat changed.

 

Village Tavern occupies a large building with plenty of seating, and though they keep busy, they seem set up to accommodate the volume. My wife and I showed up for lunch on a Monday and had no wait for a table in the bar area, which was nicely appointed. Think classy without feeling stuffy.

 

Just as the restaurant is sizeable, so too goes the menu. Apps, soups, sandwiches, salads, entrees, tacos, burgers, and pizzas are all offered here. There are gluten-free and vegetarian options, and you’d be hard-pressed to find something not to your liking. We ended up going with fish and chips and shrimp and grits. The food arrived quickly, and our server was polite and responsive throughout the meal.

 

Shrimp and grits is one of my go-to dishes, and no two places do it the same way. Village Tavern’s version uses white grits and bacon rather than tasso ham. Purists may quibble, but I found it excellent. The grits were creamy without being too heavily cheesy, the bacon added a hint of smokiness, they didn’t skimp on the shrimp, and the mushrooms were a nice touch. The fish and chips boasted crisp and generously battered cod. It wasn’t on par with what you’d find in a seafood bar, but it did not disappoint. The sauteed spinach – substituted in for coleslaw – was tasty as well though the fries were only so-so.

 

While I was wrong about Village Tavern’s décor (more appealing than I thought) and clientele (more diverse), I was right about its price point. Both entrees ran north of twenty. While the fish and chips offered a good amount of food for the money, the shrimp and grits felt like a dinner price for a lunch portion.

 

All told, Village Tavern is a solid jack-of-all-trades restaurant. It offers a little bit of everything and seems to execute well enough. It’s more likely to leave you satisfied than impressed, but the service and atmosphere make it worth your while.

Frady's Taphouse and Eatery

 

Located at 1345 North Main Street in midtown High Point, Frady’s Taphouse and Eatery offers American cuisine, craft beer, and cocktails. The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. until at least 8 p.m. every day except Monday. Patio dining is available.

 

Frady Family Farms built up a reputation during the past few years for selling top-notch smoked meats. Their recently-opened Taphouse in the former Tipsy’z Tacos location has some room for improvement but also a lot of tantalizing potential.

 

Housed in a somewhat compact space, Frady’s offers a casual vibe and amiable service. The menu, for the time being, is limited: a few apps, a few sides, a few sandwiches, a pair of salads, and several quesadillas. Playing to its strengths, Frady’s incorporates smoked brisket, pork, or chicken in most of these dishes though veggie or loaded cheese quesadillas are available for non-meat eaters. There’s also a full bar and an array of cocktails for anyone who wants to grab a drink.

 

For our first visit, my wife and I split a truffle fries starter and went with a grilled chicken salad and a brisket quesadilla, respectively. The food arrived promptly, looked good, and smelled amazing.

Execution offered more hits than misses. The brisket was tender and smoky and paired well with a verde sauce, but I wish there were more than three pieces of quesadilla. The salad balanced a bright vinaigrette, sweet blueberries, and sharp feta. The truffle fries – matchstick cut and seasoned with rosemary and parmesan – were plentiful but blander than expected. Compared to say Big Burger Spot’s equivalent offering, the depth of flavor simply isn’t there. Then again, neither is all the grease.

 

Frady’s pricing is slightly higher than you might think but not outrageously so. The salads, a simple cheeseburger, and most of the quesadilla offerings are $12 while the brisket quesadilla runs $15.

 

Given time to perhaps expand the menu and fine-tune a few offerings, Frady’s can grow into a very solid local option. The Frady family seems like good people, and their grilled and smoked meats are hard to beat.

Blue Zucchini & Co.

Located at 1506 North Main Street in High Point, Blue Zucchini offers burgers, salads, and sandwiches for lunch and dinner. Food specials change daily.

Though its name may call to mind artsy vegan food, Blue Zucchini’s closest analog is probably Greensboro’s Iron Hen (minus its much-maligned owner) in that it supplies comforting American eats in a quaint and quirky albeit somewhat crowded space. That isn’t to say that there aren’t vegetarian options here – there definitely are – but rather that one should recalibrate expectations accordingly.

And what should one expect? Go during lunchtime on a weekday, and expect a brief wait for a table. Expect to gawk at the desserts positioned conveniently near the register. Expect to gawk at the brightly colored interior and either nod in approval or find it a bit much. Expect to be torn between at least two different sandwiches (and, possibly, at least two different sides) when perusing the menu.

These expectations dispensed with, my wife and I opted for a fried green tomato starter, a West L.A. (turkey, bacon, avocado, cheese, chipotle mayo, lettuce, and tomato on sourdough) and a Low Rider (roast beef, cherry peppers, Havarti, and horseradish mayo on a baguette), with cups of black bean soup on the side. Fried green tomatoes are one of our litmus test dishes, and Blue Zucchini’s rendition (with pimento and balsamic) proved to be a mixed bag. The tomatoes were both thickly sliced and thickly battered and were nice and crisp. However, they were also quite dry. Thanks to odd plating, only the two slices in the middle had any pimento (sandwiched between them). Fortunately, the sandwiches were less confounding. Gooey melted cheese and a nice kick from the horseradish mayo made the Low Rider a winner. The black bean soup’s addition of salsa and sour cream kept it from being one-note. Prompt service and reasonable pricing ($9.75 and $8.95, sides included) made for more points in Blue Zucchini’s favor.

It remains to be seen whether or not Blue Zucchini handles dinner entrees as well as it does sandwiches, but it has all the makings of a solid lunch spot – albeit not one worth more than a fifteen-minute wait.

Whiskey Kitchen

Located at 201 Martin Street near Nash Square in Raleigh, Whiskey Kitchen specializes in whiskeys, cocktails, and Southern cuisine. Patio seating and private/event dining are available. The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday and 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Monday.

Coming from Greensboro, I was skeptical that anything could match 913 Whiskey Bar without being priced into the stratosphere. Raleigh’s Whiskey Kitchen managed to match its strengths – a deep drinks menu, a more compact food menu full of delicious-sounding Southern bites, friendly service, and affordable pricing – while providing considerably more space. Even if you are not a whiskey drinker, you can find plenty to like here.

Whiskey Kitchen is a casual, seat-yourself spot, with an inviting high-meets-low motif. Think brick-and-ductwork industrial with big garage doors but also a striking mural behind a sleek, long bar. The combination proved both distinctive and inviting.

Though Whiskey Kitchen offers food all day, certain items are only available during certain times. Lunch specials run from 11-3 while dinner entrees are offered from 5-11. My wife and I came in toward the end of the lunch shift and found several possibilities from among the admittedly limited (about six items) lunch menu. I opted for a smoked brisket melt, she took on the fried chicken sandwich, and we both did side salads instead of potato wedges to assuage our guilt.

Our food came out relatively quickly, and it did not disappoint. The brisket was neither too dry nor too greasy, the sweet sauce balanced the smoky flavor, and the crispy bread held the sandwich together well. The chicken had a buttermilk and sweet tea batter, a quirky combination that was thankfully not overwhelming, and the meat was moist and delicious. Considering the quality of the food and the downtown Raleigh location, the $10 apiece charged for each sandwich+side was confusingly affordable (the chicken sandwich goes up to a less impressive $13 if ordered past lunch hours).

All told, we had a great lunch at the Whiskey Kitchen, but we also visited during an off-hour (2:30 p.m. on a Saturday). During peak times, I can imagine the acoustics being somewhat unforgiving. Time it right, however, and you won’t regret stopping by.

8.5/10

Fisher's Grille

Located at 608 N. Elm Street in the Fisher Park neighborhood of Greensboro, Fisher’s Grille serves American bar food for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Outdoor seating is available, food and drink specials change daily, and there is live blues on Tuesday nights.

Fisher’s is your classic neighborhood sports bar and a fairly good representation thereof. The menu is the expected mix of apps, salads, sandwiches, and burgers. However, the burgers can be had with nearly a dozen topping combinations and run a very reasonable $7.50 with a side included. A Cajun burger (provolone, mayo, onions, and peppers) and accompanying Cajun fries were both flavorful, well-seasoned, and served hot. A fried pickle starter was tasty but didn’t hold its batter.

My wife and I made the mistake of visiting toward the end of a Sip and Stroll event, so the establishment was absolutely slammed. This made for a loud meal in close confines, but that isn’t the norm. Even under these circumstances, the bartenders (it’s counter service only here) were fast, patient, and amicable.

Fisher’s is no threat to Greensboro’s upper burger echelon, but it’s still a reliable spot to grab a satisfying bite to eat.

7.5/10

Platypus and Gnome

Located at 9 Front St. in downtown Wilmington, Platypus and Gnome serves eclectic fare that emphasizes game. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday. There is a full bar, sidewalk seating, and occasional live music.

At first glance, this delightfully oddly named eatery may seem like it is trying too hard to stand out. However, there is more than mere gimmickry afoot here. The intriguing menu is paired with great ambiance and an efficient kitchen that has a good command of flavors.

To begin, Platypus and Gnome is deceptively spacious. There are upstairs and downstairs dining areas as well as a bar. My wife and I scored an upstairs table, which gave us a nice view of everything down below – the bartender seemed to be on top of his game. The walls are lined with paintings for sale by local artists, and a jazz band was playing at the time of our visit. Put these elements together, and you’re left with a cool and comfortable atmosphere.

Platypus and Gnome’s inventive menu makes abundant use of boar, duck, and squash in interesting ways. Appetizers include game poutine, candied bacon, and duck l’orange flatbread, sandwiches include everything from an elk burger to duck confit to a squash cake, and entrees range from the requisite New York strip to bacon-wrapped boar to braised venison.

Though this variety made for a difficult decision, I couldn’t resist crossing off a bucket list item: a house-made Turducken. My wife settled on the mesquite tuna, and we split a cup of wild boar soup beforehand. Flavors across the board were excellent. The soup (a squash/red pepper/smoked gouda base) was wonderfully smoky. The tuna was cooked to the desired medium doneness, and the sweet corn risotto that accompanied it was addictively creamy. Meanwhile, the Turducken was like eating Thanksgiving. Not only were the Cajun-rubbed turkey, chicken, and duck quite tasty, but the accompanying green beans were perfectly cooked with just enough bite and the mashed sweet potatoes were among the best I’ve had.

For all that went right, there were still a few inconsistencies. The broccoli that came with the tuna was a bit undercooked while the edges of the turkey were somewhat dry. These issues are ordinarily easily forgivable, but with entrees priced (not outrageously) in the mid-$20s, they tend to command more attention.

Overall, Platypus and Gnome made for a great meal, and I would not hesitate to return should I find myself back in Wilmington again.

8.5/10

Jimmy's Famous Hot Dogs

Located at 370 S. Churton Street in Hillsborough, Jimmy’s Famous Hot Dogs specializes in hot dogs but also serves burgers, chicken, fish, and milkshakes. It is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Carryout catering is available in the form of tailgate specials.

This is the first Hillsborough location of Jimmy’s, which originated in Durham. It has the look and feel of a retro-style fast-food chain a la Freddy’s or Hwy 55, but it is, so far, strictly a local(ish) operation. As with other eateries in that vein, Jimmy’s is somewhat kitschy but it is at least clean. Counter staff are polite, and food prep is quick and efficient.

As hot dog places go, Jimmy’s is low-key and no-frills. Do not come here expecting pretzel buns or exotic toppings. Yet this does not mean that there is no variety to be found. Dogs are pork or Nathan’s all-beef, and they can be prepared N.Y. style (mustard and sauerkraut), Cowboy style (jalapenos, chili, and cheddar cheese sauce), plain, or all the way (mustard, chili, slaw, and onions).

For my first visit, I went with a #1 combo: two dogs (all the way), a drink, and fries. The dogs were tasty and satisfied a craving. The crinkle-cut fries, while not terrible, were unimpressive. It was hard to argue with the price charged, a mere $6.09.

Hillsborough is not known for super-affordable dining options, so Jimmy’s fills a need. It isn’t fancy, but it’s good for a quick bite.

7.5/10

New River Taphouse

Located at 1716 Pleasure House Road in Virginia Beach, New River Taphouse serves American fare for lunch and dinner. There is a full bar with a cocktail menu, and food and drink specials change regularly. Patio seating is available, and there is occasional live music.

Whilst traveling, my wife and I stumbled into New River Taphouse after our intended lunch stop turned out to be closed during lunch hours. Intentional or not, New River proved to be a fortuitous find as food and service both exceeded expectations.

New River shares its shopping center lot with several other businesses, so parking can be a bit of an adventure. Should you luck into a convenient space, a handsomely appointed space awaits. The wood-and-brick interior is clean, crisp, and well-suited to the restaurant’s concept, as is the menu. New River’s take on the dressed-up pub is hardly novel, but unlike many a failed venture, there is variation without excess. Apps include nachos and wings and various fried things, there are four different kinds of mac and cheese, pizzas and burgers and sandwiches make use of stout braised pork, IPA candied bacon, and challah buns, and for those in the market for something more substantial, a ribeye and filet mignon two ways are up for grabs.

Of these offerings, my wife and I were drawn to the cherry bomb, fish tacos, and crab cake sandwich. The cherry bomb consisted of cherry peppers stuffed with prosciutto and cream cheese, breaded, flash fried, and served with a fire roasted red pepper sauce. It was the perfect combination of spicy, tangy, crispy, and sweet. The fish tacos tasted fresh, and the accompanying mango salsa delivered bright citrus flavors. The crab cake was a respectable size, and the loose patty indicates that New River did not cut corners on the crab-to-bread ratio. Only the bland slaw (should have gone with fries) was a disappointment.

The bill for this meal proved surprisingly affordable. Our app ran $8, and the tacos and crab cake sandwich were $11 apiece, side included. Even the priciest item on the menu – a 12-ounce ribeye with mashed potato and vegetable – goes for a mere $22.

New River is also both well-staffed and well-managed. Servers are friendly and attentive, and there were enough of them to cover the restaurant’s volume of patrons. Food arrived promptly and at the proper temperature.

American pub fare sometimes gets a (sometimes deserved) bad reputation, but New River Taphouse shows that it can be done well, without pretense or gimmickry, at a reasonable price.

8/10

Sammy G's Tavern

Located at 3800 Tinsley Drive in High Point, Sammy G’s Tavern serves American fare for lunch and dinner. There is a full bar, drink specials change daily, and a brunch menu is offered on Sundays.

Though the name calls to mind a neighborhood watering hole, Sammy G’s is more upscale than the moniker lets on. A sister restaurant to Fratelli’s Italian Steakhouse in Winston-Salem, Sammy G’s does what others have tried and failed to do: it gets the dressed up pub/casual fine dining concept right.

Deceptively spacious, Sammy G’s features several dining areas. One includes a bar and a long communal table while another is a more traditional dining set up. My wife and I got to experience the latter and found it comfortable enough.

The menu here is well-stocked with American staples: wings, burgers, sandwiches, salads, and steaks. There are, however, enough global touches to keep things interesting. The appetizers include a Thai shrimp, a fried calamari, and an Asian seared tuna, risotto is an available side, chicken teriyaki features among the entrees, and several styles of nachos (including lobster and blistered corn for the truly curious) are accounted for. For our first time out, my wife and I split a green tomato starter and followed up with The Sammy G’s (fried flounder, popcorn shrimp, and a crabcake) and the Plum Asian Sirloin, respectively.

A fried green tomato has become one of our litmus tests for new places, and by that measure alone, Sammy G’s passed. Though the slices were smallish, they were crisp and well-coated, and they paired well with the accompanying dab of pimento. The jalapeno bacon jam that came with it brought a nice bit of heat. Plum sauce on a steak seemed like a gamble – would it be too sweet? – but my faith was rewarded. It enhanced rather than overwhelmed the sirloin, and it called to mind a less salty teriyaki. The side of sautéed broccoli that came with it was perfect (seriously, I was left wondering how broccoli could be this good), and the risotto was satisfying if not spectacular. The steak did come out slightly overcooked (requested medium rare, it arrived medium approaching medium well) but not enough to render it unpalatable, and that was the only hitch in an otherwise very good meal.

Said meal was complemented by service that was generally on-point. Wait times for food were minimal, and Brycen, our server, was attentive and polite. Sammy G’s seemed both adequately staffed and well-managed, no easy feat given the amount of restaurant industry turnover.

At first glance, prices at Sammy G’s seem to be in-line with the menu and concept. Entrees start in the mid-teens and run into the twenties for steaks while sandwiches and entrée-sized salads hover in the $10 to $12 range. However, most of the entrees include two sides that can be substituted (including a fries-for-risotto swap) as well as a salad (Caesar or house). Take those perks into consideration, and Sammy G’s is a surprisingly good deal for what is offered.

Given that my previous experiences dining out in High Point have largely consisted of mediocre Asian, it’s safe to say that Sammy G’s is a new favorite for the area. Flavorful food and great service make this place ideal for when a nice meal is sought but a white tablecloth establishment is out of reach.

8.25/10