Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Kabab House


Located at 4631 West Market Street in Greensboro, Kabab House features Pakistani cuisine. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week, and both lunch specials and catering are available.

This building has seen restaurants come and go. Within the past six years, it has been home to Fishtail and Marie’s African Cuisine. Time will tell if Kabab House proves equally evanescent.

Operated by the owners of the identically named food truck, Kabab House offers dishes not widely available in the Triad. Pakistani dishes like chapli and tikka boti can be found here alongside South Asian staples such as biryani, samosas, and naan. Those expecting the more common Mediterranean kabobs may be in for a surprise.

Sadly, what isn’t surprising, given the location’s history, is the restaurant’s lethargy. My wife and I stopped by on a Friday evening to find the place empty, usually an ill omen. Though the inside is looking better than it has in years (the red-backed chairs and black tables go well together), it is still dimly lit with very little ambiance. A sole tired-looking cashier manned the front, and though he was courteous, he initially misinterpreted our takeout order. Thankfully, the error was quickly remedied.

We went with beef tikka boti, lamb over rice, samosas, and naan with sesame seeds and butter. The food was a decidedly mixed bag. The samosas, rice, and salad all met expectations. Though a garlic naan option would have been nice, the sesame variant gave no cause for complaint. The beef was richly seasoned and quite tasty albeit tougher and chewier than it should have been and lacking the as-advertised sauce. The lamb was actually chopped gyro meat, which I love (and which did have a sauce) but which may disappoint those expecting larger chunks.

In all fairness, however, “you get what you pay for” applies here, and Kabab House is certainly affordable. Platters with salad, bread, and (allegedly) sauces start at $7 and many can be had for under $10. Both the samosas ($3 for two pieces) and naan ($2 for regular, $2.50 for sesame) are wallet-friendly as well.

An experienced kitchen serving up well-seasoned food at reasonable prices is usually a safe bet, but inconsistency and the need for better-trained counter staff mar the experience.

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