Waco Review Roundup

My brother-in-law’s wedding took me to the Lonestar State for the first time and gave me a slew of things to review, so here goes. Hours and locations can be found by following the businesses' links.

Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport

A large airport with seemingly endless runways, DFW has a few bright spots but overall did not make for a particularly pleasant experience. The airport seems to be in good shape and looked neither dated nor depressing. The terminal-connecting Skylink train ran reliably every two minutes. Each terminal that we visited had a variety of shopping and dining options.

Like other large airports, foot traffic can be intense at times, and that much was to be expected. Less expected was our outgoing flight changing gates and terminals multiple times in quick succession or sniffing dogs handled by police in tactical gear, both of which made for a stressful layover.

 

Waco Regional Airport

The antithesis of DFW, ACT is a tiny regional airport that manages maybe three commercial flights per day. It offers no amenities – expected given its size – but the few folks working here are friendly. That said, TSA certainly took its time opening the security line for our outgoing flight, which made clearing security longer and less efficient than it could have been.

 

Springhill Suites Waco Woodway

Located a short distance away from Waco proper, this Springhill Suites location made for a comfortable home base during our trip. The front desk staff, housekeeping staff, and Jim the bartender were all pleasant and courteous. The room was spacious and the bed comfortable, and everything worked as intended. Aside from a brief spell of what sounded like hammering, the building was mercifully quiet. The nightly rate wasn’t unreasonable, either. The bathroom lacked a ceiling fan, but otherwise, there was little fault to be found here, and I’m glad that we went with Springhill.

 

Union Grove

Coming from a city where “food hall” is synonymous with “overpriced,” I found UnionGrove to be a breath of fresh air. That isn’t to say that the offerings here were dirt cheap but rather that I didn’t feel like the food hall setting was a license to jack up prices.

Union Grove boasts a respectable variety of vendors for its size, and the offerings range from Cajun to Asian to pizza and wings and more. I opted for the ironically named Health Camp, the Woodway outpost of a longstanding Waco burger-and-shake joint. While the shake selections looked tempting, I limited myself to a Health Burger (cheeseburger), tots, and a drink.

At the risk of courting pitchforks, the burger was a bit underwhelming. It was a fast food style single patty, very thin, and though tasty enough when dressed (lettuce, tomato, mustard, ketchup), not really worth $7. I realize that for locals, nostalgia is a powerful lure (Greensboro’s Beef-Burger had similar adherents), but if you didn’t grow up with Health Camp’s burgers, I’d have to believe that you could do better. To their credit, the tots were perfectly crisp and priced right.

One final note: Union Grove has plenty of seating, but it can also get rather loud. There’s an adjoining arcade, so expect kids running around. If the acoustics don’t bother you, however, then the warehouse atmosphere can be fun.

 

Common Grounds Woodway

The Woodway branch of this Waco coffee vendor is everything you’d want in a local coffee shop. There’s a drive-thru for patrons on the go, but there’s also plenty of room inside. With Slow Rise housed in the same building, you needn’t look far to find food to go with your drink.

Common Grounds’ menu is surprisingly deep and varied. You can get a classic drip coffee or espresso drink here, take on a fun flavor from one of the house specialties, or go with a multi-shot selection from the Sleep is Overrated section if you need an extra pick-me-up.  Common Grounds’ calling card is a housemade “Secret Sauce” syrup (spoiler alert: you can buy it by the bottle and ingredients are listed if you’re curious) and the Cowboy Coffee concoctions that feature it. If that isn’t enough, there’s also a rotating seasonal menu. Fortunately, the staff here are patient while you make up your mind, and they’ll promptly prep whatever you order.

I ended up getting an iced Caramel Coffee Crunch: a latte with caramel and Secret Sauce. It was rather sweet (owing to the aforementioned sauce), but on a hot day when I was somewhat frazzled, it was exactly what I needed. Were I a local, I could see making Common Grounds a regular stop. It offers too many options to pass up.

 

R & S Barbecue

Named for its owners Richard and Shannon, this tiny hole-in-the-wall BBQ joint is the real deal. It offers sandwiches, meats (chicken, brisket, ribs, sausage, chopped beef, ham, or turkey) by the pound or in combination plates, and desserts. From slaw and mac n cheese to peach cobbler and banana pudding, the accompaniments are BBQ classics though you can also get nachos and tacos here too.

I stopped by for a brisket sandwich. At $14 with chips included, it wasn’t cheap, but it was absolutely worth it. For starters, the sandwich was sizeable, a two-hander if there ever was one. It was also very tasty. The moist, smoky brisket was among the best I’ve ever had, and it paired well with pickles and onions. Though the meat delivered plenty of flavor, the housemade sauce added a welcome tang.

 

R & S may not be as big, as storied, or as well-known as some of Waco’s other BBQ establishments, but if you’re coming for the food above all, you can’t go wrong here.

 

Waco Mammoth National Monument

Home to a dig site featuring a slew of Columbian mammoth fossils, the Waco Mammoth National Monument is good for a quick diversion. $6 gets you a guided tour of the dig site. It isn’t particularly large, but it’s a welcome reprieve from the sun on a hot day, and the work undertaken to unearth and preserve the fossils is impressive. Guides are friendly and knowledgeable.

 

Fabled Bookshop & Café

This quaint downtown Waco bookshop offers a strong selection of books, bites, and beverages. It’s easy to lose track of time here taking in all they have to offer. While books are the primary focus, Fabled also features games, puzzles, stationery, and more. Shelves are clearly labeled, and staff seem upbeat.

 

Union Hall

The OG older brother to Woodway’s Union Grove, Union Hall is a bigger operation in downtown Waco. It boasts an impressive selection of vendors, including those specializing in Cajun, Cambodian, Thai, sushi, pho, Mexican, burgers, wings, pizza, juices, teas, and edible cookie dough, among others. As befits its size, Union Hall draws plenty of foot traffic though there is enough seating to go around.

My wife and I split a barbacoa pupusa plate from Pupusa Paradise and a tamale bowl from Wacool Tacos & Tamales. We then followed that up with iced matchas from Zuke’s Tea Bar and chocolate chip cookie dough from Cookie Dough Bliss. The pupusas were thin, crisp, and quite tasty, and the accompanying slaw was wonderfully tangy. The tamale bowl went heavy on the cheese and sauce, but the actual tamales themselves did not disappoint. The teas were refreshing though one was ordered with boba, which they forgot to include.

 

Nothing at Union Hall was terribly expensive ($7 for the pupusa plate and under $5 for a 24 ounce matcha), and the variety makes it hard to pass up. It may not offer the best of anything, but if you want to try several different cuisines in one spot, look no further.

 

Pivovar

A combination Czech brewery/restaurant/hotel/beer spa, Pivovar offers a one-of-a-kind experience. We paid the restaurant side of the operation a dinner visit and had an all-around terrific meal.

The ambiance here is attractive, blending wood and green leather with a view of the brewery. Our server for the evening (Ian?) was also tending bar, and he handled both roles capably without breaking a sweat. A manager later came around to check on us, which speaks to a dedication to customer satisfaction.

Pivovar’s drinks menu features pilsners and lagers brewed in-house while the food offerings have a Germanic bent. You can still eat lighter here (salads and sandwiches), but anyone looking to indulge in sausage, schnitzel, or steak will be pleased with what’s available.

My wife and I split a pretzel starter and then opted for the sausage platter and the classic pocket schnitzel, respectively. The pretzel was large, soft, and well-salted, and it came with a trio of dips. Of them, the beer mustard was commendably robust, but the honey mustard and beer cheese were more enjoyable. The sausage platter included what appeared to be a bratwurst and two other sausages alongside corn ribs and sauerkraut. All of the sausages were tasty and offered a firm bite while the corn tasted fresh from the grill. While the schnitzel would have benefitted from a vegetable pairing, everything on the plate was excellent, from the garlicky mashed potatoes to the schnitzel’s crisp batter, juicy pork, and cheesy filling. Dessert options included a crème brulee cheesecake that I couldn’t pass up, and I’m glad that I had enough room for it. The graham cracker crust had spice notes that reminded me of carrot cake, and the thin layer of sugar topping was very satisfying. My wife also spoke highly of the dark lager.

 

Pivovar isn’t cheap, and some of the menu offerings seem like reaches (i.e. $18 for a meatless salad). However, our entrees ($21 and $19) were reasonable for the quality of the food.

That Pivovar offers a kind of cuisine I don’t usually find made it attractive, but the combination of ambiance, service, and well-executed food made it memorable. Do yourself a favor and Czech it out.

The Barcelona Burger & Beer Garden

 Located at 450 North Patterson Ave. in Downtown Winston-Salem (with an additional location in Mooresville), The Barcelona Burger & Beer Garden offers burgers, sandwiches, salads, beer, and more. It is open from 11-8:30 daily (but closes between lunch and dinner on weekdays). Outdoor seating and online ordering are available.

 

Situated across from Bailey Park, The Barcelona couldn’t ask for a better location. It offers a fantastic patio and a tantalizing dessert case inside. True to its name, it also has a variety of brews on tap. The burger selection is far more limited, but rotisserie chicken, hot dogs, and salads present a few more options. While there’s something to be said for fidelity of concept, a deep and varied menu this is not.

 

The Barcelona is an order-at-the-counter establishment, and menus are located by the register, a setup conducive to crowding and potential chaos. To their credit, cashiers and staff are quick and adept at keeping up with the volume. That same haste extends to the kitchen as we didn’t have long to wait for our food.

 

For our first visit, my wife and I opted to share a Madrid burger (American cheese, caramelized onion, roasted tomato, and spicy pepper sauce) with truffle fries as our side and a blue salad (spring mix, blueberries, bleu cheese, candied pecans, and apricot dressing). The burgers here are smash-style: nicely crisped with a bun that holds everything in place. However, in addition to the Madrid being more “done” that I usually opt for, the toppings outshone the meat. The fries were definitely made fresh and were tasty though almost overdressed. The salad, while nothing spectacular, was refreshing.

 

The Barcelona isn’t overpriced per se, but it isn’t a good value, either. Burgers run in the $12-15 range with a choice of side while our salad sans protein was about the same.

 

All told, The Barcelona offers solid food in a comfortable, casual atmosphere, but if it were located anywhere else, you wouldn’t miss much by passing it by.

Angry Troll Brewing

 

Located at 222 East Main Street in Elkin, Angry Troll Brewing is a brewhouse that serves beers made in-house and pub fare. It is open 4-11 Monday and Thursday, 11:30-midnight Friday and Saturday, 11:30-11 on Sunday, and closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Outdoor seating is available.

 

Angry Troll is essentially Foothills in the actual foothills in that it’s a spacious brewpub offering a solid lineup of taps and better-than-average bar food. It’s housed in a historic brick building with plenty of room. Despite the size, Angry Troll does keep busy, especially on game days, which can lead to a (thankfully not unreasonable) wait.

 

The menu here is about what you’d expect: fried apps, wings, nachos, salads, sandwiches, burgers, and pizzas. Add to that eight in-house beers (plus others available in bottles/cans), and you’ll likely find something that you like. Our personable and hard-working server, Virginia, was kind enough to offer a few suggestions.

 

It is in the quality of the food where Angry Troll stands apart. Fried pickles were cut into thin chips perfect for dipping. A BBQ chicken sandwich offered tender meat, lots of cheese, crispy bacon, and a slathering of aptly-named Sweet Heat sauce. It was a beast to eat, but it was worth every messy bite. My wife opted for a Southern Comfort burger featuring local beef, house-made pimento, and an onion ring, and it too proved tasty and satisfying.

 

Prices are moderate (burgers and sandwiches clock in at $9-$10 without sides), and the ambiance is casual. It’s a lively atmosphere with TVs everywhere, but it doesn’t get headache-inducingly loud.

 

All told, Angry Troll delivers well-executed food in a laid-back setting. It’s well worth a stop if you’re out Elkin way.

Blacow Burger Sushi Bar

 

Located at 517 University Center Boulevard in Charlotte (with another location at 1515 South Tryon Street), Blacow offers burgers, sushi, and Asian fusion cuisine for lunch and dinner seven days a week. There is a full bar, and online ordering is available.

 

Best described as a less expensive and less ostentatious (some would say less fun) version of Cowfish, Blacow more than holds its own. We opted to give it a try for a late post-IKEA Saturday lunch and found plenty of space at the bar. The atmosphere was comfortable if familiar - low lighting and big TVs – but the menu’s variety made up for it. In addition to apps and wings, there are more than half a dozen burger offerings, traditional and specialty sushi rolls, and bento boxes for the taking.

 

My wife and I opted to split an order of kimchi fries, a volcano roll (fried fish, avocado, cream cheese, and spicy tuna on top), and a summer roll (tempura shrimp, avocado, salmon, spicy mayo, and eel sauce). The kimchi fries (pulled pork, fried egg, and kimchi) were a wonder to behold. A massive portion, the fries were salty, the kimchi spicy, and the pork slightly sweet, a balancing of flavors that made the taste buds happy. The sushi wasn’t quite as memorable, but it was flavorful and plated nicely.

 

At $9, $11, and $11, nothing we ordered seemed overpriced, and again, the fries yielded plenty. We did not have long to wait for our food, either. Credit Lauren the bartender and the hard-working sushi chefs for staying on top of everything.

 

Time will tell if a burger sushi bar concept makes its way to the Triad. Until then, Blacow is a name to remember for Queen City visits.

Lone Star Burger

Located at 130 West Lexington Avenue in High Point, Lone Star Burger serves burgers and American fare for lunch and dinner. Outdoor seating and online ordering are available, and specials change regularly.

Lone Star Burger had the misfortune of opening just as COVID-19 shut everything down, and given the extreme difficulty of trying to start up under such circumstances, it can be forgiven for not quite having all of its ducks in a row. Case in point: my wife went to pick up a take-out order and found the staff friendly but overwhelmed and confused, a situation that one hopes is reflective of nothing more than the strain of the moment.

Less forgivable is Lone Star’s pricing, which is high for what is offered. Most of the burgers here run about $13 (and some even more) with one non-premium side included, a few bucks more than reigning burger favorite Tipsy’z Tavern. The portions are by no means puny, but they do not justify the inflated price tag.

If you can forgive the damage to your wallet, however, the food is actually quite good. We went with a fried green tomato starter, a Lampasas burger (bacon, roasted poblanos, pepper jack, chipotle aioli, lettuce, tomato), and a Lone Star burger (bacon, brisket, grilled onions, cheddar cheese, house made bbq sauce), both with fries. The fried green tomatoes were large, well-breaded slices though confusingly unadorned. Forget pimento: you will have to ask to get even a side of ranch. The burgers were quality: juicy and flavorful without being greasy and cooked to the desired doneness. The salty fries made for a nice complement, and there are plenty of enticing-sounding options (brisket-topped fries or baked potato, Frito pie, house-made chili) that also seem well worth a look.

Given the pricing, the competition, and a few staff communication issues to work out, Lone Star Burger has a ways to go before it can be in the conversation for best burger joint in the area. On taste alone, however, it is already in the mix, no small feat for opening at the start of a pandemic.

Tipsy'z Tavern & Grill

Located at 805 Westchester Drive in High Point, Tipsy’z Tavern is a bar specializing in burgers. Homemade soups, sides, and sauces are available in bulk, and there is a patio for outdoor seating.

Tipsy’z is small and well-worn, but don’t let the aesthetics fool you. Herein are arguably the best burgers that High Point has to offer. Add to that efficient service, and it’s easy to leave here impressed.

First, a caveat: both inside and out, space is at a premium. Though there are lots on either side of the building, parking is limited. If it isn’t patio weather, you’ll find only a few tables (some regular and some long/group-sized) indoors. There is adequate seating around the bar, but you may have to squeeze by to get to some of it.

That said, the menu is surprisingly deep (even if the establishment isn’t). The expected nachos and wings are joined by gumbo, crispy Brussel sprouts, mahi tacos, and a very commendable selection of burgers. You can build your own or go with one of about a dozen pre-fab options, which include featured specials and cheese-stuffed offerings. For our first time in, my wife and I went with the Stuffed Gouda Burger (topped with bacon, lettuce, tomato, garlic aoli, and even more gouda) and the How About Dem Apples (gouda, bacon spinach, apple chutney, and BBQ sauce on top) prefaced by a cup of gumbo.

The food came to us quickly and was good-to-great across the board. While the gumbo (chicken, smoked sausage, shrimp, crab, tomato, and okra) may cause purists to arch an eyebrow, it was nevertheless smoky and quite satisfying on a cold night. The burgers were as tasty as advertised. They were not overcooked, and sauces and toppings paired well and delivered on flavor. The stuffed burgers are probably best reserved for hardcore cheesophiles, but that’s not a knock on the execution. Sides (tots and chips, respectively) were crisp, and everything had a homemade touch.

While Tipsy’z isn’t cheap (most burgers run north of $10), it is one of the few burger places that doesn’t make me want to play the “I can get better at Hops for less” card. The food here is worth it, and the staff (shout-out to Thomas at the bar) are fleet-footed, hard-working, and amicable.

Tipsy’z is the kind of place that will leave you pondering what to try next time before your first visit is over. A second, taco-centric branch is set to open on North Main Street later this year, and if it’s anything like the original, it should garner some well-deserved plaudits.

Blue Zucchini & Co.

Located at 1506 North Main Street in High Point, Blue Zucchini offers burgers, salads, and sandwiches for lunch and dinner. Food specials change daily.

Though its name may call to mind artsy vegan food, Blue Zucchini’s closest analog is probably Greensboro’s Iron Hen (minus its much-maligned owner) in that it supplies comforting American eats in a quaint and quirky albeit somewhat crowded space. That isn’t to say that there aren’t vegetarian options here – there definitely are – but rather that one should recalibrate expectations accordingly.

And what should one expect? Go during lunchtime on a weekday, and expect a brief wait for a table. Expect to gawk at the desserts positioned conveniently near the register. Expect to gawk at the brightly colored interior and either nod in approval or find it a bit much. Expect to be torn between at least two different sandwiches (and, possibly, at least two different sides) when perusing the menu.

These expectations dispensed with, my wife and I opted for a fried green tomato starter, a West L.A. (turkey, bacon, avocado, cheese, chipotle mayo, lettuce, and tomato on sourdough) and a Low Rider (roast beef, cherry peppers, Havarti, and horseradish mayo on a baguette), with cups of black bean soup on the side. Fried green tomatoes are one of our litmus test dishes, and Blue Zucchini’s rendition (with pimento and balsamic) proved to be a mixed bag. The tomatoes were both thickly sliced and thickly battered and were nice and crisp. However, they were also quite dry. Thanks to odd plating, only the two slices in the middle had any pimento (sandwiched between them). Fortunately, the sandwiches were less confounding. Gooey melted cheese and a nice kick from the horseradish mayo made the Low Rider a winner. The black bean soup’s addition of salsa and sour cream kept it from being one-note. Prompt service and reasonable pricing ($9.75 and $8.95, sides included) made for more points in Blue Zucchini’s favor.

It remains to be seen whether or not Blue Zucchini handles dinner entrees as well as it does sandwiches, but it has all the makings of a solid lunch spot – albeit not one worth more than a fifteen-minute wait.

Small Batch

Located at 2758 Eastchester Drive in High Point, Small Batch offers burgers, milkshakes, and drinks. The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Burgers are discounted on Thursdays, a brunch is available on weekends, and there are occasional live music and trivia nights.

High Point does not have the same glut of burger bars as does neighboring Greensboro, and thus Small Batch (recently renamed/rebranded from Burger Batch, presumably to promote the Winston-Salem brewery’s ownership) helps to occupy that niche. It does so adequately albeit with definite room for improvement.

Perhaps fittingly, Small Batch is not a very large space. Our group of four thankfully did not have any trouble finding a table, and the casual environment was comfortable. Other reviewers have noted that it gets to be quite loud in here, and that very well may be the case when the restaurant is at capacity.

Burgers are the featured attraction here, and they can be custom built or chosen from among nine pre-fab offerings. Sandwiches, salads, apps, and a few entrees round out the rest of the menu. In addition to the requisite nachos and wings, apps include a bevy of fried vegetables (zucchini chips, Korean BBQ cauliflower) while the entrée selection works in a glazed grilled salmon and chicken and waffles. It’s a compact menu but hardly an unappealing one, especially when the decadent shake selection is factored in.

Our group settled on two burgers (the Perfect Batch with mushrooms, bacon, pepperjack, cheddar, and BBQ ranch and the Smoke Batch with cheddar, BBQ sauce, bacon, pork belly, and grilled jalapenos) each with fries, a Free Bird salad (chicken, greens, tomato, avocado, eggs, and scallions), and a grilled salmon, followed by Black & White (Oreo with chocolate chip cookie, vanilla icing, and chocolate sauce) and S’Mores (chocolate, graham cracker, marshmallow, cocoa puffs, and chocolate chips) shakes. The fries – crispy and very well-seasoned – were a hit, and the salmon received favorable remarks as well. While the burgers were enjoyable, the toppings eclipsed the meat, and my wife reported a lack of char flavor. Both shakes were deliciously sweet and, as expected, not easy to consume neatly.

While the food offered was solid, Small Batch is a poor value. The burgers are $12.49, fries included. Other sides are an upcharge. By way of comparison, Porter House charges less ($9.95-$11.95) for more (more toppings, more side options, possibly bigger patties). And for as delicious as the shakes were, $9 each borders on absurd.

Service was attentive throughout the meal, but when it came time to settle up, our server tried to upcharge my friend for the chicken that the menu clearly indicated was a part of his chicken salad. Fortunately, management swiftly and apologetically remedied this, and there were no other issues.

Small Batch is good enough to avoid ruling out entirely, but it is also too costly and too limited to make it High Point’s best burger option.

Bad Daddy's Burger Bar

Located at 4522 West Wendover Avenue in Greensboro with other locations in Winston-Salem, Raleigh, and Charlotte, Bad Daddy’s Burger Bar serves gourmet burgers for lunch and dinner seven days a week. There is a full bar, and outdoor seating and online ordering are available.

Greensboro was already rife with burger places when Bad Daddy’s entered the fray last year, but the burgeoning Wendover Commons location made it a low-risk investment. Given how consistently busy this place is, the investment appears to have paid off. Whether or not that brisk business is justified is another matter.

Though many will come for the burgers, Bad Daddy’s did not neglect the “bar” side of the name, and a centrally placed bar commands attention. There is a decent amount of table seating as well though Bad Daddy’s is not particularly spacious. As one might imagine, it can get loud in here.

Bad Daddy’s menu is a shrine to high-calorie decadence. Apps include not only fried pickles but fried deviled eggs (!!), there are several varieties of fries and tots on hand, and shakes range from basic to the aptly-named chunky Elvis (peanut butter, chocolate, banana, and nuts). Chicken sandwiches and salads can be found here too though burgers are the main attraction. You can build your own – and each table comes with a handy ordering for precisely that purpose – yet the default options are pretty damn enticing. Styles range from All-American to Southern to Philly to Steakhouse and several more in between.

For our first visit, my wife and I went with a Jalapeno Popper burger with sweet potato fries and a Pastrami Reuben burger with tots, respectively. The Reuben burger (served on rye) was delicious, delivering all the expected flavors of the sandwich atop quality beef. The Jalapeno Popper burger, decked out with jalapeno bacon and jalapeno cream cheese, was tasty as well albeit overcooked. A requested medium well came out a definite well-done. Both potato sides were winners and paired nicely with their respective dipping sauces.

Service left no room for complaint – Hali was attentive despite the restaurant’s volume – but pricing is another matter. Our burgers ran $12.45 and $11.25 respectively (sides included), which does not seem unreasonable given the toppings involved. However, whereas Bad Daddy’s uses a seven-ounce patty for most offerings, many equally decked-out eight-ounce offerings at Hops and Porter House can be had for less.

In a vacuum, Bad Daddy’s would rate higher, and it is a fine option for those traveling the Wendover corridor (provided that you can snag a table). However, for those with access to Hops, Porter House, or Big Burger Spot, it isn’t worth going out of the way for. Think of Bad Daddy’s as the burger equivalent of fellow regional chain Mac’s Speed Shop: a boisterous, slightly pricy purveyor of good-tasting/bad for you food that shouldn’t be avoided but won’t displace area favorites.

Liberty Brewery & Grill

Located at 914 Mall Loop Road in High Point (with a sister location in Myrtle Beach), Liberty Brewery & Grill serves steakhouse and pub fare for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Brunch is served Sundays from 11-2, lunch specials are offered weekdays from 11-3, a happy hour with discounted bar bites runs daily from 4-6, and a late night menu features appetizers and pizzas. Outdoor seating is available as is a separate room for large groups/events. Drink specials change regularly.

A brewpub is de rigueur for cities of a certain size, and Liberty Brewery & Grill serves that need for High Point. While it doesn’t compare favorably to Natty Greene’s or Foothills, it is a solid if inconsistent option in its own right.

Decked out in patriotic décor (think liberty and eagle statues), Liberty offers plenty of room inside and out. My wife and I showed up shortly before six on a Sunday evening to find plenty of cars in the lot yet no wait time for a table. The ambiance was lively without being uncomfortably loud.

Liberty’s menu offers no surprises but plenty of familiar favorites. It balances bar food (wings, nachos, burgers) with Southern-inspired entrees (chicken and waffles, shrimp and grits), tacos, pizza, and a few steaks. Vegetarians can rightly gripe about a lack of non-meat options, but for everyone else, there is plenty to choose from. Liberty’s house-brewed beer options aren’t as varied: think a half-dozen regular brews plus seasonal offerings.

For our first visit, my wife and I opted for fish and chips and shrimp and grits, respectively along with the rocket’s red ale and a seasonal mango beer. Results ran the gamut from delectable to forgettable to inexplicable. The shrimp and grits featured plenty of shrimp that were grilled well, but the tomato-based sauce was confusingly sweet. Every place puts its own spin on this dish though a certain degree of smokiness is a constant that was lacking here. Although unexpected, the flavor was not unpleasant. Meanwhile, the fish was thickly battered, crisp on the outside, and tender on the inside: a winning combination. Among its accompaniments, the house-made chips were very crispy and could have used more salt while the slaw rated a definite flavorless meh. Both beers were satisfying. The red ale was nicely balanced while the mango beer was sweet and refreshing.

Liberty’s pricing is moderate. Our entrees ran in the mid-teens, as anticipated. A $3 beer special during our visit, on the other hand, proved to be a steal.

While our server for the evening seemed new and a bit overwhelmed, she did her job well. Food came out quickly given the restaurant’s busyness, and an initial overcharge was just as quickly remedied.

All told, Liberty has enough to offer to make future visits likely, but it is very much a “depends on what you order” establishment.