Saturday, November 30, 2019

FosterHobbs Coffee




Located at 205 Neal Place in High Point, FosterHobbs coffee sells coffee by the cup as well as beans roasted in-house. It is open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday and closed on Sunday.

The best way to think of FosterHobbs is not as a coffee shop but as a local roastery that serves coffee. Don’t come here expecting to snag a table for hours on end while nursing a macchiato. Seating is limited here, and your beverage choices are hot or iced.

That said, if you are looking to buy beans or just want a cup of better-than-average coffee, FosterHobbs is definitely worth your time. The owners, Mike and Pam, are knowledgeable and passionate about coffee, and Pam is also very friendly. She will customize a cup of coffee to your liking and can fill you in on the characteristics of a given roast.

There are plenty of coffeeshops in the area, but there are no roasteries that are as discerning yet approachable as this one.

Blaze Pizza


Located at 4522 West Wendover Avenue in the Wendover Commons shopping center Greensboro, Blaze Pizza offers made-to-order pizzas. Keto and vegan options (including cauliflower crust) are available as is online ordering.

Like Pieology, Blaze is all about flexibility and speed. You pick your size (11 inch or 14 inch) and then customize the dough, sauce, cheese, meats, and vegetables or choose from eight or so favorites. Everything gets thrown into an uber-hot (“fast fire’d”) oven and comes out in under five minutes. In theory, this would make for an efficient way to quickly churn out crowd-pleasing food. In practice, however, it is chaos incarnate.

My wife and I ordered online for in-store pick-up and arrived to find a line of others who had done the same. Most got their pizzas quickly, but one customer had been waiting for a half hour. Our delay wasn’t nearly that long, thankfully, but there was a noticeable gap between the receipt of our first pizza and the receipt of our second. A roving manager expressed concern and made a good-faith effort to make sure everyone left happy, but his was not an easy task. In fact, the same could be said of the entire crew. Everyone we observed seemed to be working hard pounding out dough knots, lifting pizzas in and out of ovens, calling out orders, etc. And despite all this hustle and bustle, Blaze still struggled to keep pace with demand.

That bit of calamity aside, however, the food was better than expected. We went with 11-inch meat lovers and hot links pies as well as a two-pack of dough knots. The knots were legitimately some of the best I’ve ever had: just the right proportion of chewy and crunchy with plenty of flavor. The pizza wasn’t world-beating, but it was satisfying. The ingredients were tasty, and while the crust was nothing special, it was at least evenly cooked.

For those seeking hot, fresh pizza in a hurry, Blaze could be the answer if you catch them during a slower time. But if you’re in for a wait regardless, go a few miles down Wendover and try Uncle Maddios.

The Irishman


From a nursing home, an elderly Frank Sheeran (Robert DeNiro) recounts his involvement in the American underworld. A World War II veteran and truck driver, Sheeran begins selling stolen wares to the Philadelphia mob before graduating to arson and finally “painting houses” or murder-for-hire. As his star rises, he abandons his first marriage, becomes more active in his local union, and befriends two very powerful figures: Scranton mafia boss Russell Bufalino (Joe Pesci) and Teamsters president Jimmy Hoffa (Al Pacino). Though allied at first, Hoffa and the mob have a falling out, which puts Sheeran uncomfortably in the middle. Years later, predeceased or abandoned by everyone once close to him, he divulges the missing labor leader’s fate.

The first Scorsese-DeNiro-Pesci film in nearly a quarter-century (and the first Scorsese-Pacino pairing ever), The Irishman should have been the kind of film that studios salivate over, but instead, its production was nearly as long and tortured as the story it depicts. First, there are plenty who are skeptical of Sheeran’s account, which came to light when his lawyer, Charles Brandt published it as the book I Heard You Paint Houses in 2004, the year after Sheeran died. Next, it took a considerable amount of cajoling to bring Pesci out of retirement. And then, no studio wanted to foot the bill for the special effects needed to digitally de-age the leading trio of septuagenarian actors. Thus, what would have been a leading Oscar contender in bygone days became a delayed Netflix release.

This ignominy aside, however, The Irishman is a thing of beauty to behold aesthetically, dramatically, and narratively. Scorsese’s eye for period detail remains very much intact as he and his collaborators recreate the look and feel of the Kennedy and Nixon eras. The soundtrack is thoughtfully curated as well, but in place of Goodfellas’ Eric Clapton-backed murder montage or Casino’s operatics, The Irishman’s pivotal moment – the drive to pick up an unsuspecting Hoffa on the day of his final meeting – is marked by silence.

The choice to go quiet instead of loud is a mark of maturity, and it’s one that extends to the film’s themes. Previous gangster fare has a tendency to glamorize its subjects no matter how vicious it ultimately reveals them to be, and Scorsese’s films have been no exception. Henry Hill may have fallen from grace by the end of Goodfellas, but that he was able to thumb his nose at being a solid citizen says something about the lofty perch he once occupied. Sheeran, however, is denied even this fleeting sense of nostalgic grandeur. By the end of The Irishman, he is in failing health and truly alone. One can take issue with how little screen time women have in the film – Anna Paquin, as Sheeran’s disapproving daughter says maybe a dozen lines – but they nevertheless serve as a powerful rebuke to the idea that Sheeran’s way of life was for some family-affirming greater good.

Given the cold nuance of the film’s approach, a cast best known for showy performances (to put it lightly, in Pacino’s case during the past two decades) would seem a strange fit, but Scorsese evidently commands enough respect to get the most out of his performers, and in turn, they remind audiences of what they were capable of before they reached the point of self-caricature. DeNiro, who is of average height, captures the much-taller Sheeran’s shambling movements, his soldier’s stoicism, and the hints of anguish that peek through the veneer all quite believably. As the charismatic yet belligerent Hoffa, Pacino gets to do his fair share of yelling, but the performance is far from one-note. He captures the man’s vanity and bigotry as well as his amiability toward children and belief in the righteousness of his cause. Perhaps the biggest surprise here is Pesci, best known for playing corrosive, diminutive psychopaths who immeasurably complicate the lead gangsters’ lives. Instead, he plays Bufalino as shrewd and calculating, a man whose quietly whispered request could have ten times the impact of one of Tommy Devito or Nicky Santoro’s worst outbursts. Ironically, the specter of Pesci’s past roles shows up here in the form of Anthony “Tony Pro” Provezano, a short-but-volatile mobster whose prison contretemps with Hoffa fuels much of the second-half conflict. Tony Pro is played without an impeccable accent by the Englishman Stephen Graham in a turn that calls to mind his Boardwalk Empire work (as a young Al Capone) minus any hint of likeability.

For all these strengths, however, The Irishman does have several noticeable faults. For starters, it is very long, even by the standards of gangster epics. The three-and-a-half-hour runtime and leisurely pacing demand patience, and even the committed will find themselves wondering if Thelma Schoonmaker (Scorsese’s longtime editor) couldn’t have trimmed fifteen minutes or so. The much-discussed de-aging technology is also a miss albeit not a catastrophic one. DeNiro never looks any younger than his mid-40s even when Sheeran is supposed to be, and it is difficult to buy Pacino seeming even that young.

A gripping exploration of the mythology of midcentury American power and the corruption that underpinned it told through the eyes of a bloody-handed fixer, The Irishman is a slow but masterfully executed assault on the very idea of innocence. If this is the last time that Scorsese gets to work with any of these leads, then the film, like a rival cab company that Sheeran sees to, is going out with a bang.

Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Black Powder Smokehouse


Located at 302 East Main Street in Jamestown, Black Powder Smokehouse serves BBQ for breakfast and lunch with dinner service scheduled to resume in the near future. Catering is available, and there are plans to add online ordering and live music.

A complete overhaul of an old gas station, this highly anticipated BBQ joint opened two weeks ago to much fanfare. How much fanfare? Black Powder was open for lunch and dinner during that time but sold out well before dinner every day. And while that is undoubtedly a source of consternation for many would-be patrons, the level of demand usually says something about the food quality.

It is, thankfully, not all hype. Black Powder has some of the best smoked meats in the Triad though enjoying them involves more than a little bit of luck. To wit: the restaurant opened at 11 a.m. this past Saturday, and my wife and I arrived just a few minutes thereafter to find a line to the door. Said line only grew longer as noon grew closer. Standing and waiting to order is a fact of life here.

At least you will be standing and waiting in style. The restaurant is handsomely appointed with a sleek bar area and a few long tables alongside more conventional seating. If the aesthetics don’t strike you as inviting, the wonderful smoky smell certainly will.

Black Powder’s compact menu is similarly appealing. The meats, available in quarter, half, pound, or sandwich portions, include pulled pork, chopped chicken, brisket, turkey breast, smoked salmon, and a rotating selection of sausages. Ribs and chicken quarters and halves round out the roster. They are joined by sides such as slaw (red or white), gouda mac n cheese, molasses baked beans, braised collard greens, Carolina caviar, pimento hushpuppies, and hot boiled peanuts (?!), all available in small or large portions.

Assuming the line doesn’t deter you, co-owner (a big, bearded guy from BBQ Pitmaster central casting) is an amiable presence at the carving station, and his staff are equally personable despite the constant influx of customers. Given the sheer volume, food wait times could be a whole lot worse.

For our early lunch visit, my wife and I split a quarter-pound each of pulled pork, brisket, and sausage, which we paired with gouda mac, white slaw, and pimento puppies. The plate looked amazing, a welcome relief to anyone who’s ever winced after glimpsing pre-sauced pork at Stamey’s. While the sides were smallish, we were able to cobble together a filling lunch for two for about $20, which was practically a steal.



The food was worth every penny and then some. The pork was a touch dry, but that was easily remedied by an application of one of the three sauces (Eastern, Western, and the far-superior BP Signature) available. The brisket – smoky and tender and fatty without being greasy – was outrageously good. We ended up with andouille as that day’s sausage, and it delivered both a spicy kick and a firm bite. The slaw was satisfyingly creamy and offered hints of carraway (?), and the pimento puppies were like the golden child of a hushpuppy and a jalapeno popper. The gouda mac delivered in the flavor department though it was rather thick.

Whether or not Black Powder Smokehouse becomes your new favorite Jamestown eatery/barbeque restaurant/converted gas station (apologies, Lindley Filling) or a colossal disappointment depends largely on the luck of the draw. Get in while the wait is manageable (ten-fifteen minutes) and the meats are in-stock, and it’s excellent. But catch them at the wrong time, and you may walk away jaded (if not also hungry).

Thursday, November 14, 2019

Rixster Grill


Located at 3815 Tinsley Drive in High Point, Rixster Grill serves bar food from 11 to late seven days a week. There are occasional events and live music as well as a foosball table.

Rixster Grill is your standard-issue neighborhood sports bar, but it’s a pretty solid representation thereof. The abundance of TVs make it a comfortable spot to take in a game while filling up on apps/wings/burgers/sandwiches until the final whistle.

My wife and I stopped in for lunch on a Saturday and found the place mostly empty. Annette, the lone server, proved friendly and welcoming. We started with fried mushrooms (no bargain at $7.25) and went with a black & blue burger (a better deal at $8.95 with a side included) and a firebird sandwich ($8.50 and ditto) respectively. The food came out hot with very little wait. I can’t speak to busier times, but service during our visit was impressively efficient.





The food, on the other hand, was decidedly uneven. The mushrooms were battered nicely, but they were begging for a more flavorful beer batter. The burger, requested medium, was served well-done and was very, very salty. On the other hand, the sides were money: mixed vegetables were surprisingly fresh and flavorful while waffle fries were perfectly crispy. The firebird (hot sauce-coated fried chicken breast topped with ham, provolone, lettuce, tomato, and ranch on a Kaiser bun) was not easy to eat – make sure you have plenty of napkins – but it delivered on flavor.

All told, Rixster is worth a visit for a quick bite or a gameday meetup, but the food is too inconsistent to make it a regular meal option.

Odeh's Mediterranean Kitchen



Located at 3805 Tinsley Drive in High Point, Odeh’s Mediterranean Kitchen serves Mediterranean/Middle Eastern fare for lunch and dinner every day except Sunday. Food specials change regularly, and vegan, gluten-free, and halal options are available.

Moving from Greensboro to High Point in May put several Mediterranean favorites out of easy reach. Nazareth and Sarah’s Kabob Shop went from being a short hop down West Market to good twenty-plus minutes away. Fortunately, Odeh’s (a mere nine minutes) opened over the summer to fill the void. But there is far more to this place than mere convenience. Odeh’s food is some of the best Mediterranean in the Triad.

Tucked into the tangle of shops between Tinsley and Eastchester, Odeh’s is easy to overlook despite clear signage. About the worst that can be said for it, aside from its nondescript location, is that it is small and sparsely adorned. However, this is a nonfactor for takeout orders, and everything else about the place merits praise.

The menu here has everything you would expect and a few things that you would not. Tabouleh, hummus, stuffed grape leaves (homemade), shwarma, kababs, and gyros are all accounted for as are plenty of options (mozzarella sticks, jalapeno poppers, a fish platter) for when a fried craving hits. Specials have included everything from baked chicken to spanakopita to a prime rib sandwich. No matter what you opt for, be sure to save room for dessert: knafeh and baklava cheesecake are among the offerings.

With this many options, decisions can be difficult. Thankfully, counter staff are patient and kind, even as you gawk at the menu indecisively. Odeh’s kitchen is speedy and efficient, too: from placing a takeout order to out the door didn’t take nearly as long as I thought it might.

I opted for a mixed shwarma platter, a fried fish platter, and an order of stuffed grape leaves, and there wasn’t a dud among them. The shwarma portion wasn’t as plentiful as I’ve seen elsewhere, but the tender, tasty meats more than made up for it. The fish was flaky and well-seasoned, and the grape leaves are among the best I’ve had outside of Chapel Hill. While there is plenty of the menu left to explore, it is also comforting to know that I could repeat this order with zero regrets.

Though hardly the only eatery of its type in the area, Odeh’s ability to put out delicious food quickly at reasonable prices makes it a must-try.

Wednesday, November 6, 2019

Joker


In crime-infested, poverty-stricken early 1980s Gotham, promotional clown and aspiring comedian Arthur Fleck (Joaquin Phoenix) takes care of his sick mother, Penny (Frances Conroy), who is convinced that her former employer, the wealthy Thomas Wayne (Brett Cullen), will come to their aid. Arthur, who suffers from a condition that causes him to laugh inappropriately, is similarly hopeful that he will one day appear as a guest on a popular late night show hosted by Murray Franklin (Robert DeNiro). After a series of misfortunes culminates in Arthur taking vengeance on a trio of tormentors, he begins to embrace all of the behaviors that had been alienating him from others.

From flamboyant gangster to giggling prankster to crazed criminal mastermind, the Joker has worn many guises throughout the character’s eighty-year history. This malleability makes a definitive backstory an impossibility, but Todd Phillips’ stab at one does successfully distill much of what makes the character tick. In particular, Joker runs with Alan Moore’s vision of a beleaguered chap driven completely mad by one (horrendously) bad day. However, the film also owes a considerable debt to Martin Scorsese as Arthur blends Travis Bickle’s (Taxi Driver) vigilante righteousness with Rupert Pupkin’s (The King of Comedy) delusional desperation (ironically, DeNiro, who played both parts, seems to occupy roughly the same role Jerry Lewis played in the latter).

For all of the film’s indebtedness, however, Phoenix turns in a singularly remarkable performance. Everything about Arthur radiates sickness: his uber-gaunt appearance and his heavy smoking habit are the physical counterparts to his laughing fits, his lack of social and (tragically, for a would-be comedian) comic awareness, and his general disregard for boundaries. The film does not glamorize him in the least, nor does it glorify him through victimhood. Rather, through Phoenix’s magnetism and lack of inhibition, it reminds us that the Arthurs of the world cannot simply be wished out of existence.

The rest of the film cannot match the power of its central performance, and it often does not seem like it is even trying to. Thomas Wayne (Batman’s famously murdered dad) is uncharitably reduced to a generic One Percenter while Zazie Beetz has a thankless role as a neighbor who catches Arthur’s eye. The film’s gritty, grimy aesthetics almost make viewers forget that Phillips is a comedy director, but the ironic soundtrack (Sinatra, Gary Glitter, and “Send in the Clowns”) serves as a reminder thereof (though Hildur Gudnadottir’s dark, string-heavy score is praiseworthy).

Upon release, Joker engendered a frankly ridiculous amount of backlash that saw the moral panics of old rise anew. Predictably, these fears amounted to naught, but in the process, the ensuing controversy turned an OK film featuring a great performance into a cultural moment, something that the Joker (one version, anyway) would likely find hilarious.

El Camino: A Breaking Bad Movie


After being liberated from Aryan gang captivity by his dying former partner Walter White (Bryan Cranston), reluctant meth cook Jesse Pinkman (Aaron Paul) wants nothing more than to disappear and start a new life. Ed (Robert Forster, in his last role), a vacuum cleaner salesman/professional disappearer can make that happen, but Jesse will need to get his hands on more money first. Jesse’s deranged former captor Todd (Jesse Plemons) left behind a stash, but unfortunately, Jesse isn’t the only one in search of it.

Six years after wrapping up Breaking Bad, series creator Vince Gilligan brought back much of the old gang (the aforementioned, plus Jesse’s bumbling friends Badger and Skinny Pete as well as fan favorite troubleshooter Mike all make appearances) to explore the aftermath of Walter’s last stand. Given that spinoff series Better Call Saul has stepped into the void in the meantime, El Camino is less of a “must” and more of a “why not,” but it does provide a redemptive arc for a character that the series left in a very dark place.

Appropriately, El Camino is as much a triumph for Paul as its story is for Jesse. Freed from Cranston’s shadow, Paul delivers an impressively complex performance, relying on gesture and expression to capture Jesse’s haggard desperation while also portraying the same character’s cockier, younger self in flashback scenes. Speaking of flashbacks, Plemons is once again singularly unsettling as Todd: an unfailingly polite, friendly, murderous monster utterly without a conscience or any social awareness.

Amid these strong characterizations, the film’s antagonists – a pair of money-grubbing Aryan-connected petty thugs – are lacking in menace and gravitas. We see them as a nuisance rather than a menace, as if Gilligan has played his “more dangerous than they look card” one too many times before. Similarly, Jesse’s mad scramble for money and freedom carries great personal stakes but few broader implications. We never get the sense that his choices are going to cause planes to collide, for instance.

These movie-to-series comparisons are as unfair as they are inevitable, and though it is equally unfair to consider El Camino strictly on its own merits, it nevertheless makes for an entertaining two hours shot with the tense, stylish gusto one can expect from the franchise.

The Nickel Boys


In the 1960s, bright but troubled teen Elwood Curtis is sentenced to the Nickel Academy, a notorious Florida reform school where survival is not guaranteed. Amid the brutality of institutional life, he befriends the cynical Turner, who sees Elwood’s idealism as a source of trouble. But as conditions worsen, both boys find their outlooks – and their loyalties – put to the test.

Fresh off the alt-history heels of the Underground Railroad, Colson Whitehead did a 180 to craft The Nickel Boys, a fictionalized take on the real-life Dozier School for Boys that reads as all too painfully real. A frank and unflinching look at institutional violence (beatings, rapes, and covered-up murders), the novel delivers shock without sensationalism. Whitehead’s straightforward approach and efficient prose create a matter-of-factness that lets the book’s horrors speak for themselves. At the same time, however, he also finds room to explore an ideological conflict between allies: Elwood, a steadfast believer in the power of truth and goodness and Turner, who is committed to doing what is necessary for survival. The complexity of their friendship builds toward an ending that would amount to a cheap twist in lesser hands but is played deftly here.

The Nickel Boys is not for the faint of stomach, and it takes a careful eye to catch everything going on beneath the surface gloss of casual violence, but for those up to the task, it is a book not easily forgotten.