Located at
2003 Yanceyville Street in Revolution Mills in Greensboro, Kau is a combination
steakhouse restaurant/bar/butcher shop. It is open from 4-10 Wednesday to
Friday, 11-10 on Saturday, and 11-9 on Sunday. Indoor and patio seating are
available, and there is also a private dining space. Brunch is available on
Sundays.
A labor of
love for Natty Green’s/Old Town Draught House vet Kayne Fisher, Kau occupies a
beautifully repurposed industrial space. The scope of it – multiple bar areas,
hand-cut Braveheart Prime steaks, etc. – makes it seem out of reach for all but
the most special of occasions, but it needn’t be. As my wife and I found out,
it also makes for a fantastic weekend lunch spot.
Kau
understandably likes to play up its meat offerings, but there is a lot more
than just steak and chops on the menu. An impressive assortment of apps,
salads, sandwiches, burgers, tacos, and bowls makes for a very tough decision.
Upon the recommendations of our server, we went with a collard dip starter, a
pretty bird sandwich, and a meatloaf sandwich.
We hadn’t
long to wait for our food, and Ashley did not steer us wrong. The collard dip
featured three kinds of cheese (cheddar, parm, and cream), bacon crumbles, and thick,
warm pieces of housemade pita. It was deliciously cheesy, and it felt like the absolute apex version of a classic spinach dip. The meatloaf was
a bit loose, which led to some interesting sandwich structural integrity
challenges, but the flavors (a bit sweet, a bit smokey) were excellent. This is
as strong a challenger I’ve seen to the meatloaf sandwich GOAT (Morgan’s Tavern
in New Bern) in years. The pretty bird’s chicken too was smokey and flavorful,
and it paired very well with the sweetness of the roasted red peppers. The
lemon aioli was understated, and balsamic might have been a better pairing.
Both sides – a refreshing tomato-cucumber salad and thick-cut, parmesan-and-herb-laden fries – were quality.
Kau was
not a cheap lunch (the dip was $12 and the sandwiches were in the teens), but
it was a lot more reasonable than the steakhouse cachet would suggest, and the
food was absolutely worth it. I don’t get out to this side of Greensboro very
often, but Kau may very well hasten my return.
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