Lexington Avenue Brewery

            Located at 39 N. Lexington Avenue in Downtown Asheville, Lexington Avenue Brewery specializes in beers and locally sourced pub food. Food and drink discounts are offered on certain days, and the establishment also offers both patio seating and a private event space. A late-night menu is available after 11 from Thursday to Saturday.

            With a few notable exceptions (thank you, Foothills), the gastropub experience often carries with it an implied bargain: endure waiting, crowding, beleaguered service, and noise, and in exchange, enjoy our cool atmosphere, craft brews, and slickly reconfigured versions of food you’ve had before. Fortunately, LAB dispenses with much of this trade-off, granting the positives (food and atmosphere) while leaving the negatives at the door.

            Inside, LAB is spacious with plenty of seating at tables or the curved bar. We arrived around 1 p.m. on a Saturday and experienced no wait. The dark, industrial (bricks n ducts) atmosphere isn’t trendsetting, but it is plenty comfortable and a good fit for the concept.

            Where LAB really shines is in the breadth and depth of the menu. Your standard nachos/burgers/wings mingle with poutine, bacon in a glass (a candied bacon + peanut butter app), tandoori chicken, and steaks. There is a good balance between healthy and decadent, and both vegan and gluten-free options are available. For the drinkers among you, the beer selection is commendable as well. LAB brews its own stuff, but you can also expect to find other local offerings.

            For our first visit, my wife and I went with a fried green tomato sandwich and a LAB burger, respectively, and fries as our sides. Everything was satisfying albeit with some room for improvement. The burger used a half pound of quality meat and was flavorful if a bit dry. The fried green tomato sandwich tasted good as well although the thin tomato and the addition of bacon gave it a bit of an identity crisis. The hot, hand-cut fries were both plentiful and excellent.

            The prices charged were not unreasonable – both sandwiches fell in the $10 to $12 range – and service was much quicker and more attentive than expected.

            Given its concept and location, it is easy to view LAB with a cynical eye, but this place shows that you can do “cool brewpub” without turning it into an overpriced madhouse.