Hillsborough BBQ Company

Located at 236 South Nash Street in Hillsborough, Hillsborough BBQ Company serves barbeque for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. There is a full bar and catering is available.

There are plenty of establishments that try too hard to be something they’re not, but Hillsborough BBQ is not among them. From the old-timey photos on the walls to the simple, rustic décor to the straightforward menu, this is a classic North Carolina barbeque joint through and through. By that measure, it’s quite a good one although there are a few things that would welcome improvement.

My fiancée and I arrived hungry for our first visit and went with a starter of catfish bites followed by a two-meat combination plate with BBQ pork, brisket, mac and cheese, hushpuppies and slaw. The catfish bites had a nice, thick batter that avoided gumminess and played well with the accompanying remoulade. Both of the meats were juicy, and the pork was among the best I’ve had in quite some time. The mac and cheese was a homestyle preparation done right.

While most of the food satisfied, the slaw was a major exception. We initially went with a red slaw mistaking it for BBQ slaw: it was apple cider vinegar-based and too tangy for our liking. They were kind enough to swap it for a white slaw, but this that wasn’t much better. It was very finely chopped and lacked any creaminess.

That – and the relatively limited selection of BBQ sauces (only two were available) – were the only low points here. Pricing was fair - $8 for the app and less than $20 for a combo that fed two – and despite the busyness of the lunch hour, service was efficient and relatively quick.

Hillsborough BBQ may not rank among the Tarheel State’s barbeque elite, but for the area, it’s a BBQ bright spot. Flavor and service make it a must-try.

8/10