Located at 651 South Regional Road in Greensboro, Agni
Indian Kitchen and Bar serves up Indian cuisine for lunch and dinner. There is
a full-service bar and delivery is available.
A former fast food location off of N.C. 68 is an unlikely
bet for good anything – let alone good Indian – but Agni comes very close to
pulling it off. While the outside still resembles the Wendy’s that Agni once
was, the interior tells a different story. The décor features bright reds,
greens, and blues, a funky combination that nevertheless lends a touch of
comfort and class. The layout, however, is logistically suspect. A U-shaped
buffet area isn’t conducive to high volume or foot traffic, a problem when Agni
draws a lunch crowd.
Fortunately, this did not prove a problem during a recent
lunch visit. The buffet’s offerings were chicken-heavy, but there were a few
vegetarian dishes and one fish offering, plus the requisite condiments,
desserts, and naan. Everything I sampled was executed competently though only a
few dishes – namely, the saag and the fish tikka – really stood out. The dishes
had a good (but by no means overwhelming) amount of spice and heat, appropriate
for a place whose name translates to “fire.”
At $9.99, the buffet wasn’t a steal, but Agni’s ongoing 10
percent discount made it easier for me to feel like I had gotten my money’s
worth. That, plus excellent service, make this an attractive lunch spot. Just
the same, I would hesitate before trying Agni for dinner: the prices are a bit
high (entrees with meat start at $15 – on par with the competition, actually),
and the selection, though varied, is somewhat limited (no thalis, no jalfrezzi on
the regular menu, etc.).
Despite this — and its out-of-the-way location – Agni comes
across as a welcome addition to Greensboro’s increasingly heterogeneous dining
scene. It may not be in any position to supplant Saffron, but it still has
merit all its own.
7.75/10
No comments:
Post a Comment