Jiro Dreams of Sushi

Eighty-five-year-old Jiro Ono is the world’s foremost sushi chef. Despite his age and years of experience, Jiro remains steadfastly dedicated to his craft. This ethic has rubbed off on his apprentices and children. Younger son Takashi has successfully opened his own restaurant while older son Yoshikazu waits patiently to take up his father’s mantle.

Directed by David Gelb, this 2011 documentary is a study in obsession. There is no better word to describe its subject: a man who started working as a child and vows to continue as long as he is physically able to. By his own admission, this has made Jiro a stern master and an absent father. It has allowed his dream – sushi perfection – to consume not only his life but, tragically, that of his children as well.

Despite this, the film never brands Jiro as a villain. He is shown to be an excellent teacher who inspires success in others (one apprentice could barely suppress his joy at winning Jiro’s praise). And for all of his apparent traditionalism, he also has a nonconformist streak. At one point, he finds himself questioning what advice he could give to future generations when his own path to success was long on years and short on education.

Knowing that there is more than meets the eye to Jiro helps explain the odd phenomenon that is his restaurant. A small establishment tucked off a Tokyo street, it seats only ten and offers absolutely no frills (not even appetizers). Despite this, it offers the exclusivity one would expect from a Michelin-rated three-star eatery: reservations must be made at least a month in advance, and meals start at an exorbitant 30,000 yen (about $260). This makes the proprietors’ frequent claims that “It’s not about the money” a little difficult to take.

With such a captivating subject at its core, Jiro Dreams of Sushi didn’t need a lot of cinematic embellishment, and Gelb wisely avoided an elaborate production. A Philip Glass soundtrack and English subtitles are the only reminders that you are even watching a professionally made film. The focus here is on the documented, not the documenter.

For those with no knowledge of or affinity for Japanese cuisine, Jiro Dreams of Sushi may seem inaccessible, despite the magnetism of its star. But anyone who has ever had a good piece of toro or unagi will appreciate (and perhaps pity) Jiro’s relentless quest for perfection.

8/10