Platypus and Gnome

Located at 9 Front St. in downtown Wilmington, Platypus and Gnome serves eclectic fare that emphasizes game. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday. There is a full bar, sidewalk seating, and occasional live music.

At first glance, this delightfully oddly named eatery may seem like it is trying too hard to stand out. However, there is more than mere gimmickry afoot here. The intriguing menu is paired with great ambiance and an efficient kitchen that has a good command of flavors.

To begin, Platypus and Gnome is deceptively spacious. There are upstairs and downstairs dining areas as well as a bar. My wife and I scored an upstairs table, which gave us a nice view of everything down below – the bartender seemed to be on top of his game. The walls are lined with paintings for sale by local artists, and a jazz band was playing at the time of our visit. Put these elements together, and you’re left with a cool and comfortable atmosphere.

Platypus and Gnome’s inventive menu makes abundant use of boar, duck, and squash in interesting ways. Appetizers include game poutine, candied bacon, and duck l’orange flatbread, sandwiches include everything from an elk burger to duck confit to a squash cake, and entrees range from the requisite New York strip to bacon-wrapped boar to braised venison.

Though this variety made for a difficult decision, I couldn’t resist crossing off a bucket list item: a house-made Turducken. My wife settled on the mesquite tuna, and we split a cup of wild boar soup beforehand. Flavors across the board were excellent. The soup (a squash/red pepper/smoked gouda base) was wonderfully smoky. The tuna was cooked to the desired medium doneness, and the sweet corn risotto that accompanied it was addictively creamy. Meanwhile, the Turducken was like eating Thanksgiving. Not only were the Cajun-rubbed turkey, chicken, and duck quite tasty, but the accompanying green beans were perfectly cooked with just enough bite and the mashed sweet potatoes were among the best I’ve had.

For all that went right, there were still a few inconsistencies. The broccoli that came with the tuna was a bit undercooked while the edges of the turkey were somewhat dry. These issues are ordinarily easily forgivable, but with entrees priced (not outrageously) in the mid-$20s, they tend to command more attention.

Overall, Platypus and Gnome made for a great meal, and I would not hesitate to return should I find myself back in Wilmington again.

8.5/10