The Smoke Pit

Located at 117 E. Innes St. in Salisbury (with additional locations in Concord and Monroe), The Smoke Pit serves barbeque for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. There are daily food specials, and a full bar and catering are available.

North Carolinians can be very particular about their barbeque, so I expect some pearl-clutching from Lexington partisans when I say, without hyperbole, that The Smoke Pit is the best I’ve eaten in the state. From selection to flavor to execution, everything about my meal here was spot-on. Good service and generous portion sizes round out the equation.

Though a bit noisy, The Smoke Pit has plenty of seating, which spares you from having to eat elbow-to-elbow at a counter or wait eons for a table to free up (NC BBQ traditions both). One look at the menu, and you’ll be in for an agonizing decision as it all sounds good. Meats include wings, ribs, Cajun turkey, brisket, sausage, pork, or burnt ends. They can be enjoyed on plates with a bread and two sides, put into combos, or, in the case of pork and brisket, served atop baked potatoes. Apps, sandwiches, salads, burgers, and Tex-Mex style tacos are also available. Vegetarians, unfortunately, will have very little to choose from.

After some help from Chase, our server (an affable chap with good knowledge of the menu), my wife and I were able to settle on splitting a combo with pulled pork, burnt ends, fried okra, sweet potato tots, corn bread, and a hash brown casserole of the day. The food came out more quickly than expected, and it did not disappoint. The meats were tender and flavorful, the tots paired well with an accompanying apple butter, and the casserole was deliciously cheesy. There was not a single item that I would have qualms about reordering.

The Smoke Pit’s prices are moderate. Our combo came in a little under $30. There was plenty of food to go around, however. We wanted leftovers, and we were not disappointed.

If you are beholden to old-school Lexington or Eastern-style joints, The Smoke Pit will seem like a modern heresy. But for those who have no such allegiances, this is some damn good BBQ.

8.75/10

Car-Themed Crime Capers: Baby Driver and Logan Lucky

There was a time when a car-themed action movie was not an invitation to low expectations. The original Vanishing Point trafficked in a search for meaning and existential themes as much as it did in chase sequences while the original Gone in 60 Seconds, though low-budget and amateurish, showed a remarkable amount of ambition for a small, independent project. Even the first Smokey and the Bandit, cheesy relic that it may be, had plenty of off-kilter charm. These artifacts contrast heavily with today’s self-plagiarizing and self-parodying franchise fare (think Fast and the Furious/Transporter) where cool cars serve as signifiers of anti-heroism and little else.

Fortunately, a pair of 2017 films have made some inroads into reversing this trend. In Edgar Wright’s Baby Driver, the titular protagonist’s prowess behind the wheel is as much a burden as a blessing. The nature of his work also ensures that for every bright red Subaru Impreza he pilots, he also cruises around in far less conspicuous rides. Meanwhile, in Steven Soderbergh’s Logan Lucky, the nominal hero isn’t a hotshot driver. His sister, who operates a borrowed Ford Shelby GT, comes closer to fitting the bill, but her leadfooted proclivities are identified as a potential liability rather than an asset. Both movies work to subvert car flick expectations in interesting ways and are quite entertaining in their own right.

Baby Driver’s Baby (Ansel Elgort) is a young man stricken with tinnitus from the car wreck that killed his parents. He constantly listens to music on his iPod to drown out the ringing in his ears, often while he serves as a getaway driver for heists organized by Doc (Kevin Spacey), to whom he owes a debt. A chance meeting with a waitress, Debora (Lily James), gives Baby a shot at an honest life, but Doc has other ideas.

Aside from his collaborations with Simon Pegg, Wright is perhaps best known for directing Scott Pilgrim vs. The World, and Baby Driver calls that film to mind in its use of music and over-the-top sensibility. Almost all of Baby Driver is synched to Baby’s playlists, and the selection is impressively varied. Everything from Simon & Garfunkel to Queen to Danger Mouse makes an appearance, and the timing is impeccable. The action is well-choreographed albeit often ludicrous, and the same can be said for some of the performances. Jamie Foxx walks a thin line between hilarious and terrifying as the violently unstable robber Bats, and while Spacey might be a despicable human being, he remains a fine actor, adding layers of complexity to the overbearing boss-type that he has played many times before.

That said, James’s role is underwritten and Elgort is all too often overshadowed by the star power that surrounds him. This is also a style-over-substance movie, and while its style is original, fluid, and highly engaging, one wishes there was more than just genre clichés at its heart.

Speaking of familiarity, Logan Lucky can’t help but call to mind Soderbergh’s previous work as it plays like a cross between his Ocean trilogy and Talladega Nights. Newly laid off from his construction job at Charlotte Motor Speedway, Jimmy Logan (Channing Tatum) conspires with his one-handed war veteran brother Clyde (Adam Driver) and sister Mellie (Riley Keough) to rob the Speedway during a big race. To succeed, the siblings will need to break veteran safecracker Joe Bang (Daniel Craig) out of jail, but things become complicated when Bang insists on the participation of his idiot brothers.

Though it lacks Baby Driver’s verve, Logan Lucky is hardly an unstylish film. Soderbergh deploys his usual array of quick cuts, montages, and editing tricks. Both David Holmes’s score and a soundtrack featuring the likes of Loretta Lynn and Patsy Cline fit the film’s setting and on-screen action.

While Logan Lucky’s script (courtesy of the mysterious “Rebecca Blunt,” a possible pseudonym for the director and/or his wife Jules Anser) has its share of funny lines, the movie also derives quite a bit of humor from its casting. From Tatum playing against type as something of a loser to a bleach blond Craig as a redneck savant to Driver (an actual Marine veteran best known for playing the arch nemesis kin to a one-handed warrior) to NASCAR ace Carl Edwards as a state trooper, there are plenty of unexpected, amusing, and inspired choices.

And yet for something that was supposed to momentous – Soderbergh’s return after a well-publicized 2013 retirement – Logan Lucky can’t help but feel like a minor work, an enjoyable movie though not an impactful one. Moreover, the absence may be enough to make the director’s old tricks seem new again, but one hoping for something new may feel a bit let down.

With ninth and tenth installments in the works, we’re in no danger of running out of Fast and Furious films any time soon, and their brand of boisterous brainlessness will continue to cast a large shadow. However, as Wright and Soderbergh have shown us, we needn’t take “car movie” as a synonym for skippable.

Baby Driver: 8/10

Logan Lucky: 7.75/10

Simply Thai and Sushi Bar

Located at 122 E. Main St. in Jamestown, Simply Thai serves Thai cuisine and sushi for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday and dinner only on Sundays. Lunch specials are $8.95 (more for shrimp or steak) and rotate daily.  

An affiliate of the same-named restaurant in Elon, Simply Thai is neither the best of Thais nor the worst of Thais though it does fulfill a need for the immediate area.

Inside, Simply Thai’s décor is minimalist. There’s a nice mural along the back wall, but you will otherwise find yourself staring at lots of brick. Though not the most capacious restaurant, there was plenty of available seating at the time of my midday Tuesday visit.

At first glance, the menu here seems to hew largely to the tried and true. Pad Thai, curries, basil dishes, and wraps are all present and accounted for. Dig a little deeper, however, and you’ll find some pleasant surprises. There are Lao dishes (sausage), Japanese dishes (udon), Vietnamese dishes (pho, which can be had with duck!!), and more. The lunch special menu is more restrictive – four dishes are offered on any given day – but between the regular menu and the sushi menu, there are plenty of options.

For my first visit, I went with a panang curry with steak off the lunch menu. The dish was preceded by a veggie spring roll and came out quickly. Simply Thai does not seem to offer levels of spiciness (at least not by default though they may do so upon request), which in my experience, defaults to bland. Thankfully, this proved not to be the case. The peanut sauce had a bit of a kick, and neither steak nor veggies were overcooked.

That said, the portion size seemed small for the $10.95 charged, and in depth of flavor, Simply Thai’s rendition lagged behind Greensboro’s best. Emily did provide excellent service, however.

Given that Jamestown proper could always benefit from more dining options, Simply Thai is a welcome addition for those who live and work in the area. Its menu and attentive staff make it an attractive option. However, for those who have access to other Thai nearby, Simply Thai is simply OK.

7.5/10

Nikki's Fresh Gourmet and Sushi

Located at 16 S. Front St. in downtown Wilmington, Nikki’s Fresh Gourmet and Sushi serves primarily sushi and Japanese fare for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Food, drink, and dessert specials change regularly.

After wandering from one packed downtown eatery to another on a Saturday night, my wife and I stumbled across Nikki’s more out of desperation than deliberate intent. As accidental finds go, we could have done far worse.

First, a caveat: it was very busy at the time of our visit. As such, the restaurant was somewhat loud, and the servers, though not rude, definitely seemed a bit harried. Whether or not this is par for the course is something only a local/repeat offender would know.

Moving on, Nikki’s menu defies expectations. Sushi is the specialty here, and the offerings strike the right balance between traditional rolls and more eclectic house specialties. You’ll also find the requisite bento boxes and teriyaki dishes. However, Nikki’s offers poke bowls (Hawaiian), burgers and cheesesteaks (American), tacos and quesadillas (Tex-Mex), and gyros and falafel hummus wraps (Mediterranean) as well. Curious as this is, it makes for a multitude of options.

My wife and I went with a tofu teriyaki bento box and a rainbow poke bowl, respectively. The food came out more quickly than we would have expected given the volume, and while quality ranged from acceptable to outstanding, nothing was a real misfire. The poke bowl (salmon, tuna, white tuna, seaweed salad, cucumber, avocado, and dressing over rice) was bright, fresh, and bursting with flavor. For $13.95, I wished there was more of it, but what I got tasted great. The bento box, on the other hand, provided plenty of food for $11.95: teriyaki tofu, miso, a side salad with ginger dressing, gyoza, four pieces of California roll, and edamame. Few of the items were stellar, but the tofu was flavorful and the miso was comforting.

If Nikki’s sushi rolls are as good as the hype suggests and if the restaurant isn’t always packed, I could see rating it higher. As-is, the varied menu and competent execution make it a solid option.

7.75/10

North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher

Located at 900 Loggerhead Road in Kure Beach, The North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher has freshwater, coastal, and oceanic exhibits as well as (seasonal) animatronic dinosaurs. Admission is $10.95 for adults, and the aquarium is open 9-5 daily.

There are definitely sadder aquariums out there, but this one is not among North Carolina’s best. The more noteworthy exhibits include a rare albino alligator and some very brightly colored jellyfish. Parking was abundant (there is an overflow lot nearby).

That said, the “dinosaurs” were quite cheesy, and a lot of activities seemed geared toward young children. The admission price isn’t outrageous, but you aren’t getting a lot of aquarium for your dollars.

The Aquarium at Fort Fisher is worth checking out if you are in the area, but it pales in comparison to the Pine Knoll Shores/Fort Macon facility.

7.25/10

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot

Located at 111 Grace St. in downtown Wilmington, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot serves beer, wine, and cocktails from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday. There is occasional live music, a patio with a fire pit, and a private loft.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot pulls off the rare feat of making the superlative accessible. It’s a comfortable space with a great drinks selection and prices that aren’t as high as one would think.

First and foremost, the selection here is commendable. Wines include whites and reds as well as ports and dessert wines. There are also beer offerings to suit any preference: lagers, ciders, porters, stouts, IPAs, and more. The real stars, however, are the cocktails. They range from classics (a Negroni, a Manhattan, etc.) to house specialties to boilermakers to infusions (such as vodka with basil, lime, and peach) to deconstructions to dessert cocktails and seasonal specialties. My wife started with a Funfetti Chocolate Cake (cake vodka, Godiva chocolate, Frangelico, and cream with a funfetti and chocolate rim) while I went with an iced chai cocktail. Both were delicious, prepared with skill and care, and at $8 and $9 respectively, neither broke the bank.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot also offered adequate space and comfortable seating and attracted a non-obnoxious clientele. This is the kind of place that can do classy without being snooty, fun without being raucous, and the music wasn’t bad, either.

While downtown Wilmington has no shortage of bars, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot’s combination of ambiance and excellence sets it apart.

9/10

Platypus and Gnome

Located at 9 Front St. in downtown Wilmington, Platypus and Gnome serves eclectic fare that emphasizes game. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday. There is a full bar, sidewalk seating, and occasional live music.

At first glance, this delightfully oddly named eatery may seem like it is trying too hard to stand out. However, there is more than mere gimmickry afoot here. The intriguing menu is paired with great ambiance and an efficient kitchen that has a good command of flavors.

To begin, Platypus and Gnome is deceptively spacious. There are upstairs and downstairs dining areas as well as a bar. My wife and I scored an upstairs table, which gave us a nice view of everything down below – the bartender seemed to be on top of his game. The walls are lined with paintings for sale by local artists, and a jazz band was playing at the time of our visit. Put these elements together, and you’re left with a cool and comfortable atmosphere.

Platypus and Gnome’s inventive menu makes abundant use of boar, duck, and squash in interesting ways. Appetizers include game poutine, candied bacon, and duck l’orange flatbread, sandwiches include everything from an elk burger to duck confit to a squash cake, and entrees range from the requisite New York strip to bacon-wrapped boar to braised venison.

Though this variety made for a difficult decision, I couldn’t resist crossing off a bucket list item: a house-made Turducken. My wife settled on the mesquite tuna, and we split a cup of wild boar soup beforehand. Flavors across the board were excellent. The soup (a squash/red pepper/smoked gouda base) was wonderfully smoky. The tuna was cooked to the desired medium doneness, and the sweet corn risotto that accompanied it was addictively creamy. Meanwhile, the Turducken was like eating Thanksgiving. Not only were the Cajun-rubbed turkey, chicken, and duck quite tasty, but the accompanying green beans were perfectly cooked with just enough bite and the mashed sweet potatoes were among the best I’ve had.

For all that went right, there were still a few inconsistencies. The broccoli that came with the tuna was a bit undercooked while the edges of the turkey were somewhat dry. These issues are ordinarily easily forgivable, but with entrees priced (not outrageously) in the mid-$20s, they tend to command more attention.

Overall, Platypus and Gnome made for a great meal, and I would not hesitate to return should I find myself back in Wilmington again.

8.5/10

Museum of the Bizarre

Located at 201 S. Water St. in downtown Wilmington, the Museum of the Bizarre features oddities and curiosities. Admission is $3, and the museum is open daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Though it bills itself as a science museum, the Museum of the Bizarre is pure roadshow kitsch. The small building hosts an assortment of horror movie props, fake things in jars, unconvincing urban legend displays (ghost deer, anyone?), trick mirrors, and more. Admission is certainly cheap enough, and there are worse ways to kill 15 minutes (especially on a hot day), but beyond that, don’t bother.

5/10

Copper Penny

Located at 109 Chestnut Street in downtown Wilmington, the Copper Penny serves pub food for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Food and drink specials change daily.

Much like Hillsborough’s similarly named but completely unaffiliated Wooden Nickel, Wilmington’s Copper Penny is small, loud, somewhat basic, and insanely popular. The appeal isn’t hard to fathom – it’s a casual spot to grab a drink, watch a game, or meet a friend – but the food doesn’t merit the inevitable lunchtime wait.

First, the good: Copper Penny’s menu is respectably large and goes beyond basic bar food. You can definitely roll with the staples here – nachos and burgers and wings are all up for grabs – but you can also try your luck with a crab cake sandwich, a po boy, a portabella sandwich, or shrimp tacos. There are enough options to satisfy vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.

Some of the offerings are quite tasty, too. My wife and I split a spinach and artichoke dip starter and had a burger apiece. Both the dip and the accompanying chips were served hot, and the dip was satisfactorily creamy. The half-pound burgers were quality, too. Copper Penny uses a half Angus, half short rib blend, which made for a flavorful burger that was none too dry. I went with the BBQ Burger (sauce, cheddar, bacon, fried onions, lettuce, and tomato) while my wife went with the Southwest Burger (jalapenos, bacon, pepper jack, chipotle mayo, fried onions, lettuce, and tomato), and neither of us was disappointed. Both burgers came with a small portion of Asian slaw, which had a nice peanut flavor. But while my wife’s sweet potato fries were nicely crisped, my hand cut fries were greasy and limp.

While Copper Penny’s portion sizes are respectable, prices are a bit high by bar standards. Our burgers were $12 and $12.29 respectably while our dip ran $9. The servers here are hard-working and constantly hustling and bustling to and fro. However, they are thwarted by a somewhat convoluted seating system. A lot of Copper Penny’s tables are six-tops, and to seat more patrons, two sets of couples may end up sharing a table, but not a server. This seems like a recipe for miscommunication though we were lucky to avoid any such problems.

Overall, Copper Penny is a solid lunch spot if you don’t mind the (considerable) noise, but if you’re tasked with a long wait time, turn elsewhere.

7.5/10