Wednesday, January 17, 2018

The Village Diner

Located at 600 W. King Street in Hillsborough, The Village Diner offers Southern fare for breakfast and lunch seven days a week. Food specials change regularly.

This decades-old greasy spoon was recently taken over by Joel Bohlin of the Fetch Hot Dog Co. food truck, who looks to provide some much-needed renovation and rehabilitation. As of January 2018, this is very much a work in progress. Only half of the building is open, the menu is limited, and the staff is still getting its bearings. However, if the food quality offers a glimpse of something to look forward to when the update is complete.

From the outside, the nondescript diner looks unchanged and untouched by time. The inside maintains a homey feel (brick walls and minimal décor) albeit with a few updates (i.e. hanging mason jar lights). It’s currently a smallish space, but that will change when the revamp of the currently-closed main dining room is complete.

Speaking of small, don’t expect an expansive menu during the revamp (or many meatless options, for that matter). What is offered, however, fits The Village Diner’s concept well: fried chicken, meatloaf, Southern sides (collards, green beans, etc.) and a few sandwiches were among the lunch offerings. Those seeking a homestyle meal will not be disappointed.

For our first time in, my wife and I opted for the Reuben and the chili dog, respectively, both with home fries as the side. The Reuben was a good-sized sandwich, none too greasy, with a quality dressing. The chili dog was beer-infused for extra flavor and had a firm bite. The fries were crisp and well-seasoned, and a tiny portion of slaw generated no complaints.

Those accustomed to the old Village Diner’s pricing are likely in for some sticker shock. My chili dog/fries/bit of slaw ran $7.50 while the Reuben and fries was north of $10. While not outrageous, these prices are definitely reaching given the location.

In its current state, The Village Diner is a worthwhile – if limited and slightly overpriced – lunch option. However, when the revamp is complete, it has the potential to be something considerably more.


7.5/10

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