Four Flocks and Larder

NOTE: This establishment has stopped accepting Groupons.

Located at 433 Spring Garden Street in Greensboro, Four Flocks and Larder specializes in poultry and Southern fare. It is open for dinner seven days per week and also offers a weekend brunch. A full bar with a juleps menu is available as is patio seating.

Four Flocks and Larder is one of several (alongside Revolution Burger and the Baker and the Bean) establishments that Fresh Local Good Food Group opened in the old Morehead Foundry Building last year. My previous experiences at FLG eateries have been somewhat mixed, and Four Flocks proved no exception. In this case, that translates to good, but not as good as it could have been.

This fairly spacious restaurant is homey, bright, and inviting if a bit quirky. There is a market area, a large bar, and plenty of tables. The wood shelves and other touches give off an appropriately rustic feel and the carved birds up front definitely stand out. The overhead ductwork, however, serves as a reminder of this space’s industrial origins.

Four Flocks’ menu gathers an enticing collection of small plates, sides, salads, soups, and breads. Poultry is the star here, and chicken (fried chicken, chicken and dumplings, smoked wings), duck (roasted duck breast, spaghetti and duck meatballs), turkey (turkey frittes), and quail (cornbread stuffed) are all represented here. They also do ribs, beef fillet, shrimp and grits, and very few vegetarian dishes (most notably, a blackeyed pea ravioli). Decisions did not come easily.

Ultimately, my wife and I split a sea salt bread pot starter, a cup of pumpkin soup, pan roasted duck breast, southern fried chicken, and a side of white cheddar mac and cheese with country ham. The bread was deliciously flaky and came with a nice herb butter. The soup was a generous portion (the “cup” was a deep turret-shaped vessel), hearty, and comforting. The duck didn’t top Undercurrent’s version, but it was still very good in its own right: fatty and flavorful and paired well with a cherry sauce and Brussels sprouts (the latter of which I enjoyed despite finding that thought inconceivable a year ago). The mac and cheese is an addictive homestyle preparation, and the ham adds a smoky, salty touch.

Unfortunately, for as good as these dishes were, not everything was a hit. The fried chicken looked appealing, and it thankfully wasn’t dried out, but it was thinly battered and, disappointingly, very bland. In addition, the accompanying grits seemed like they used enough butter to make Paula Deen blush.

Four Flocks was not remotely busy during the time of our visit, which meant we didn’t have to wait very long for our food (something I sensed would not be the case otherwise). Our server, Brooks, did an excellent job, and we have him to thank for recommending the bread pot and the mac and cheese. Pricing proved to be surprisingly affordable: all of our food (a bread, a soup, a side, and two plates) ran under $40 pre-tip.

As with other FLG eateries, the menu and concept hold lots of appeal, and Four Flocks has the best food, ambiance, and service of any in the group. However, it’s still several inconsistencies away from flying high and realizing its full potential.

7.75/10