Cin Cin Burger Bar

Located at 1425 West 1^st Street in Winston-Salem, Cin Cin Burger Bar is a Prohibition-themed establishment that specializes in gourmet burgers and (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) shakes. Salads, sandwiches and entrees are also available. There is a full-service bar, and the restaurant is open seven days a week.

Craft burger bars no longer offer the novelty they once did. Customizable toppings have gone from deluxe to de rigueur, and if the ingredient quality and execution aren’t completely on-point, the $10-plus burger is not a justifiable indulgence but a disappointing mass of overpriced meat. This was the climate that greeted the Michael family (owners of Waldo’s Wings) when they opened Cin Cin last year. Having a well-defined concept -– a neo-speakeasy/juice joint – certainly helps, but a tantalizing menu with offerings that eat as good as they sound is what will keep Cin Cin from being an also-ran.

If our first visit was any indication, Cin Cin has gotten off to a strong start. The house was nearly packed when we went for lunch, but, miraculously, the wait for a table was very brief. Inside, Cin Cin is a funky mix of old and new. The red striped booths and old-timey wall art suggest a charming retro vibe, but the conspicuously placed TVs and modern dance music are decidedly at odds with the Prohibition-era aesthetic.

Cin Cin’s menu offers a surprising amount of depth. In addition to the expected burgers (go pre-fab or build your own), fries, salads, and sandwiches, you’ll find everything from chicken waffle pops and pierogis to steaks and fish to an assortment of Waldo’s Wings with a few vegetarian options interspersed. For the decadently inclined, the dessert section will send you straight into Homer Simpson-esque drool territory: sweet jars, cheesecakes, and various wet, dry, and artisanal shakes that make use of everything from butterscotch schnapps to frosted animal crackers.

For our first time out, my wife and I started with eggplant fries and a burger and a side apiece. Unlike some I’ve had, the eggplant fries here came out crispy and golden brown, and they held their batter well. The accompanying garlic aioli was satisfying, but if it hadn’t been, the tableside array of wing sauces would have made up for it. The “flapper” fries that accompanied my burger were crisp as well but rather oddly shaped: picture potato twists. The burger in question, a Bootleggers Bourbon (bourbon molasses glaze, caramelized onion, bacon, and pimento), did not disappoint. Cin Cin uses a chuck/brisket/short rib blend, and the meat was juicy. It also came at the requested medium: some establishments struggle with serving anything less than medium-well. My wife’s selection, the Fuh-Gedd-About-It (mozzarella, tomato, basil, roasted red pepper, and balsamic on ciabatta) was also a hit (the tomato and basil added some nice freshness) though neither of us would repeat the Asian noodle salad (fine in and of itself, odd as an accompaniment) as a side.

For as tasty as the food was, we certainly had to wait a while to receive it. It is difficult to ascertain whether Cin Cin was simply exceptionally busy that day or if their kitchen is normally slow, but either way, a quick meal this was not. At least our server, somewhat frenzied from the rush, was not neglectful.

If nothing else, CinCin is competitively priced. Our app was $6 for a good-sized plate, and our burgers (with one side each) were $12 and $11. Some diners will inevitably balk at paying north of $10 for a burger, but for the quality and quantity offered, Cin Cin’s rates seemed fair.

While the speed can be improved and the concept isn’t entirely consistent, Cin Cin’s deep and varied menu, competent execution, and creative branding make it appealing. It is likely too early to call, but Winston-Salem may have found its very own Hops: a boisterous, busy bar that serves up a damn good burger nearly any way you like.

Overall: 8.25/10