Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Bona Fide Sandwich Co



Located at 104 North Churton Street in downtown Hillsborough, Bona Fide Sandwich Co serves sandwiches, bowls, salads, and sides from 10:30 to 4 every day. It is takeout-only: no seating is available.

Every town or city center needs a reliable sandwich shop, and on the surface, Bona Fide seems to fit the bill quite nicely. The location (walkable from most of Hillsborough’s landmarks) is tough to beat, and the menu is varied and appealing. Not only is there a good balance of classics (a Reuben, an All American Sub, an Italian Hero) and vegetarian options (5-Spice Banh Mi, Drunken Grilled Cheese), but there are also more eclectic combinations with names that project a sense of fun. The Werewolves of London, for instance, mixes roast beef and ale mustard with pickles and arugula.

Unfortunately, almost every other aspect of Bona Fide was a letdown. One does not expect a takeout-only place to be capacious, but Bona Fide fills so easily that there is no room to form ordering or waiting lines; customers tend to huddle around. This would be a lot less of a problem if it weren’t for the fact that on summer days, the restaurant gets uncomfortably hot. Whether this is a ploy to sell drinks or an abundance of faith in the efficacy of a box fan is anyone’s guess.

My craving for an Italian sandwich was strong enough to motivate me to brave the wait. The price charged ($7 for an eight inch with no sides; the footlong went for $13) was steep but not outrageous by Hillsborough standards, and the staff seemed hardworking and genial. The actual sandwich was something of a mixed bag. On the one hand, it had a good mix of ingredients (salami, mortadella, ham, peppers, arugula, and provolone), and everything tasted fresh. On the other hand, it was lacking a certain zest, and it ultimately paled in comparison to Giacomo’s rendition.

I wanted to like Bona Fide, and had I arrived when it was less hot and less crowded, I may have. The location and menu make it worth another shot as do the quality of the ingredients, but pricing and taste both leave something to be desired.

7/10

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