Located at
111 North Churton Street in downtown Hillsborough, La Place offers Cajun cuisine for lunch and dinner.
There is a brunch on weekends, limited outdoor seating, and a full-service bar.
Food, drink, and dessert specials change regularly.
I have a
weakness for Cajun and thus tend to be more forgiving of an establishment’s
flaws if it delivers the right flavors. In La Place’s case, no such pardon is
needed. Named for the Andouille Capital of the World, this restaurant not only
nails the food but also gives ample motivation to keep coming back.
Owner/chef
Joe Tullos, a native of the region, succeeded in capturing the look and feel of
a New Orleans-area establishment. The long wooden bar, the photos on the walls,
and the specials written on chalkboards all preserve a certain vintage charm.
However, this classic presentation should not be taken for an unwillingness to
experiment as La Place’s menu is deceptively varied. Yes, you will find po
boys, gumbo, and other traditional fixtures here, but you will also encounter
novel twists on biscuits and gravy (with green onion sausage) and the BLT (with
smoked chicken) as well as a whole slew of creative cocktails (including one
with cereal, milk, and bourbon).
Whether
your tastes run experimental or conservative, you are likely to be satisfied no
matter what you order. For a late brunch, my fiancée and I went with the meat
bol and the crawfish etouffee. The former – various house-made sausages served
over two eggs, grits, and a biscuit – featured smoky meats and grits that were
good enough to be a meal on their own. The latter was creamy, well-seasoned,
and no less enjoyable.
Add to
this a team of outgoing and knowledgeable bartenders, and it’s hard to find
fault with La Place. The pricing ($15 for the meat bol, $12 for the etouffee)
is moderate, but it’s fair given the quality of the ingredients – though I do
wish the portion size on the latter ran larger. And while our Saturday
afternoon visit was a comfortable experience, La Place’s relatively small size
makes me wonder if dining during a dinner rush would tell a different tale.
With a
pleasingly vintage aesthetic and terrific food, La Place is a worthwhile
destination for anyone in the area, Cajun-phile or not.
8.5/10
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