NOTE: The Marshall Free House has since closed. The same ownership launched The Traveled Farmer in its stead.
Located at 1211 Battleground Avenue in Greensboro, The Marshall Free House offers upscale English pub fare for lunch and dinner. The restaurant includes two bar areas, outdoor seating, and indoor and outdoor fireplaces. A weekend brunch is offered as is a high tea menu.
If nothing else, my first visit to The Marshall Free House
served as a testament to the value of experiencing things firsthand. High
prices, inconsistent reviews, and a repeatedly delayed grand opening put me off
giving this place a try, but in the end, I am more than glad that I did.
To start, the décor is quite impressive. It is easy enough
to lay down some dark wood, low lights, and a beer sign or two and call
yourself a pub, but The Marshall Free House really nails the details, waltzing
right up to the edge of ostentation without crossing the line. The handsome bar
areas, communal long tables, homey fireplaces, and other touches make for a
comfortable ambiance. Seeing all this in person almost makes the laughably long
time it took for this place to open a little easier to understand.
Service is another strong point. The tartan-clad servers are
trained to give first-time patrons an introductory sales pitch, something I
found overly showy but not altogether unwarranted. That aside, our server,
Connor, was personable, knowledgeable, and made several helpful recommendations.
Moreover, both food and drink arrived surprisingly quickly after our orders
were placed: they run a tight ship here.
Speaking of food and drink, nothing we tried disappointed.
An order of Scotch eggs had a great balance of textures (runny yolk on the
inside, crispy panko on the outside), and my companion raved about the
accompanying dill aioli. The menu offered a number of Anglo-Pub standards
(bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, etc.) as well as a few intriguing sandwiches
and other options (pork cheeks and pan seared salmon were both earmarked for future
consideration). We decided to go classic, however, and did not regret it. My
steak and ale pie may have been one of the best-smelling dishes I’ve ever had,
and the taste was nearly its equal, tender beef, rich stew, golden brown crust,
and all. My companion’s fish and chips, in addition to being absolutely huge,
was also flaky and moist, well-breaded, and none too oily. A side of mushy
peas, while texturally odd, was ultimately satisfying.
Should you favor a drink, The Marshall Free House is
well-provisioned. If the 90-something varieties of whiskey are out of your
price range (and they likely are), the beers – including several brewed right
across the street at Pig Pounder – leave plenty to like. Our flight included
two (Boar Brown and Banana Bread) that won me over, and I am nobody’s idea of a
beer drinker.
The one blemish on what is otherwise an excellent dining experience
is the pricing. While it is not outright thievery given either the quality of
the food or the size of the portions, nearly $20 for fish and chips seems high
no matter how much you dress it up, and other offerings are similarly steep.
Abandon the pretense of dining at a pub and prepare to shell out for upscale
cuisine, and you won’t get hit with sticker shock.
Even before it officially opened last year, The Marshall
Free House had won its share of detractors. Prior to my visit, I was poised to
place myself among their number. But the food, service, and atmosphere are
simply too damn good for me to join the hatedom. I’ll be back.
8.25/10
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