Crafted! The Art of Street Food

Located at 600-C Battleground Avenue in Greensboro, Crafted! The Art of Street Food offers snacks, dishes, and desserts with Latin American and Asian influences. The restaurant is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday and offers a full bar.

Crafted! Art of the Taco is a much-loved spot in Downtown Greensboro, so the news that Chef Kris Fuller has added a new eatery next door to the also-new Preyer Brewing Company is cause enough for celebration. Add to that an exciting concept (street food from around the world), and expectations rise faster than federal spending. Thankfully, the food measures up to the hype though there are a few potential drawbacks to eating here.

The new Crafted! is considerably more spacious than the Elm Street location, but that doesn’t mean that it fills up any less quickly. We went during its first Saturday in business and found the place unsurprisingly packed. This meant grabbing stools at the bar, which ended up being a blessing in disguise as it gave us views of the décor (pseudo-industrial with bright splashes of color), the kitchen (placed conventionally in the back, unlike in the original Crafted!), and, via a glass partition, Preyer next door. It also helped that the bartenders were extremely efficient and none too harried despite the high volume.

The menu here is divided into snacks, desserts, and dishes from Asia and the Americas. Everything from poutine to banh mi enters the mix here, and you would be hard-pressed to find something that doesn’t catch your eye. For the culinary dilettante, this is a dream come true. However, do not come here expecting traditional. The dishes are more heavily sauced than you would find in authentic eateries, and there is some variation in ingredients as well. But if you can let go of a notion of what a dish should be, you are in for a treat. A starter of plantain chips was perfectly crisp and paired well with the accompanying chimichurri sauce. A vegetarian samosa used mint effectively to balance heat. A cubano sandwich, apparently one of the best-sellers, was moist, meaty, and full of flavor. Though I would likely go with different dishes next time for variety’s sake, everything I tasted merited a future reorder.

Of course, taste and value are two separate considerations, and Crafted! 2.0 rates as nearly as poorly in the latter as it rates well in the former. Dishes are offered in both large and small sizes, but if the quantity yielded from our orders of “large” cubanos and samosas is any indication, medium and tiny might be more appropriate appellations. Quality food doesn’t come cheaply, yes, but paying more than $10 for a large sandwich that was not particularly large and included no sides dulls the appreciation considerably.

This and the boisterous atmosphere may deter some diners, but on food alone, the new Crafted! is well worth exploring. For anyone who has ever tired of burgers and dogs, has had a favorite food truck or stand, or has wanted to sample different global cuisines in the same meal, fear not: Chef Fuller has you covered.

8/10

Interstellar

In the future, food shortages have turned the Earth into an agrarian society, and famine threatens to wipe out civilization. To prevent this, the covert remnants of NASA recruit former pilot/astronaut-turned-farmer Cooper (Matthew McConaughey) to lead a research team through a wormhole to find suitable planets for resettlement. Cooper’s decision to accept the mission puts him at odds with his daughter Murph, and a series of setbacks as well as time dilation keep him absent for most of his children’s lives. However, Cooper remains determined to both complete the mission and make it home.

Thanks to a (pun unintended) stellar track record, the success of a Christopher Nolan film is almost a given at this point, which is why the director deserves credit here for making his latest effort earn its plaudits. Overly long, ambitious, complex, and spiritually as well as intellectually challenging, Interstellar has its share of shortcomings as well as moments of brilliance.

As with other Nolan fare, Interstellar packs a formidable stylistic punch. Working with a new cinematographer (Wally Pfister was off directing his own far less successful sci-fi film), Nolan imparts a sense of wonder and majesty into everything from dust storms to frozen wastelands to the depths of space itself. Visually, the film pays homage to 2001: A Space Odyssey (among others) without wallowing in cliché (the robots aboard the ship, for instance, resemble neither HAL nor androids). Meanwhile, Hans Zimmer’s score is a departure from some of his previous work – don’t look for The Dark Knight’s scary strings here – that still oozes gravitas.

This weightiness suits Interstellar’s role as a Film of Ideas, a role it never lets you forget. Inspired by the work of theoretical physicist Kip Thorne (who served as a consultant), the movie aims to offer a grounded look at phenomena such as wormholes, black holes, and gravitational time dilation. The presentation is the antithesis of the breezily convenient space magic suggested by other sci-fi narratives as Nolan and Thorne try to show their work.. Less scholastically, the film also suggests that love is a universal force, but it’s an idea that comes across as laughably hokey and naïve.

As a consequence of this preoccupation with theory and theme, characterization takes a backseat for much of the voyage. Cooper is the kind of everyman reluctant hero that Tom Hanks would have portrayed ten years ago. Having McConaughey fill his shoes brings some emotional intensity, but this is still sedate and rather bland compared to the rest of the Texan’s recent work. Three different actresses portray Murph in different stages of her life, and each performance hits the right note. Mackenzie Foy is precocious, Jessica Chastain is bitter, and Ellen Burstyn is dignified. Beyond them, the other characters are given little depth. As Cooper’s mentor Dr. Brand, Michael Caine feebly and persistently quotes Dylan Thomas while Anne Hathaway portrays Brand’s daughter – and Cooper’s fellow voyager – with an inexplicable foolhardy streak. Both of the voyage’s robots (voiced by Bill Irwin and Josh Stewart), sarcastic, low-key, and helpful, were of more interest than many of the supporting characters.

Unsurprisingly given the lack of attention to character, dialogue is not a strong point here. Jonathan Nolan’s script has its moments. As mentioned previously, the robots are quite amusing, and Cooper gets to gloriously ream out some school administrators who treat the moon landings as a hoax. Far too often, however, the dialogue comes across as stilted and pedantic. This is especially true toward the film’s ending when Cooper monologues everything that is happening to him as if he has a classroom full of physics students watching his every move. Though done rather transparently for the audience’s benefit, this scene plays as confusing as it does false.

Imperfect as it is, Interstellar still manages to show that it is possible to emphasize the science side of science fiction without boring an audience to tears. Though it could have benefitted from a shorter running time and fuller characters, it still inspires a fair amount of reverence and awe. Much like the journey depicted on screen, you might not like what you see as you near the end, but it’s still a trip worth taking.

8.25/10

Burger Warfare

Located at 1209 Battleground Avenue in Greensboro, Burger Warfare specializes in burgers but also offers sandwiches, salads, and shakes. There is a full-service bar

Much like its nearly-adjacent sister restaurant (The Marshall Free House), Burger Warfare follows a familiar template for Kotis-owned properties: find a theme, go all-out on décor, inject some craft beers and a few unique food offerings, and jack up the prices. While the latter point is (understandably) a deal-breaker for some, I’ve found the overall experience to be worthwhile, and Burger Warfare is no exception.

How likely you are to agree with that assessment depends partially on how much you appreciate the dedication to theme. If the giant robot statue outside didn’t convince you, this place ain’t subtle. There are more robots on the inside, bullets inlaid on the bar counters, and servers clad in camo. While no one would confuse this with elegance, it is nevertheless a look that stands out. Try it if you want a change of pace.

Of course, aesthetics is only one part of the battle plan here. The menu isn’t particularly deep (only three sandwiches and two salads), but what it lacks in depth it makes up for in intrigue. You can build your own burger here, but the preset options are fairly compelling – they make use of everything from chorizo to portabella to brie. Ditto the drinks: booze-laden milkshakes are a house specialty, and brews from Pig Pounder across the street are readily available.

For my first visit, I went with the Eggstraction Pt. Siracha: a cheeseburger with onions, chorizo, and an over-easy egg. The burger was a bit of a mess to eat (as well it should be), and the flavors melded nicely. The Warfare Sauce that accompanied my fries was another zesty hit. The meat itself, however, doesn’t compare to Greensboro’s best. They do two thin patties here, and while it certainly outclasses Steak n Shake, let’s just say that it’s no Hops. My companion, on the other hand, seemed satisfied with her Black Ops: an Asian twist on a black bean patty. Moreover, the adult shake that we split – the Daniel Boone (vanilla with apple pie moonshine and caramel) – was a winning pick.

Our server, Victoria, was quite friendly, and our food arrived from the kitchen quickly. Both of these made the price paid more palatable. Burgers (with one side) fall in the $8 to $10 range while the alcoholic shakes are $8. These rates aren’t casus belli, but better values do exist elsewhere.   

Had I been here when the establishment was more crowded, I may have left with a decidedly less favorable impression. However, my first visit leaves me to conclude that while Burger Warfare may not win the battle for best burger in town, it can still wage a successful campaign for diners’ dollars.

7.75/10

Avengers: Age of Ultron

As the Avengers combat terrorist organization Hydra in the Eastern European nation of Sokovia, team benefactor Tony Stark aka Iron Man (Robert Downey Jr.) has a horrifying vision of the team laid to waste because he didn’t do enough to save it. To avert this fate, he and Dr. Bruce Banner (Mark Ruffalo), alter ego of the Hulk, use Asgardian technology to create Ultron, an artificial intelligence dedicated to defending the Earth. Unfortunately, it isn’t long before Ultron (voiced by James Spader) decides that the only way to save the world from destruction is to annihilate its human inhabitants.

In the three years since the first Avengers film, the Marvel Cinematic Universe has grown by leaps and bounds, not only increasing in number but diversifying in style and tone. With everything from cosmic adventures to political thrillers in the oeuvre and the character count at an all-time high, pulling off a coherent ensemble piece that still satisfies the fandom is twice the challenge it was in years’ past. While this sequel is hardly seamless, it nevertheless rises (super) heroically to the occasion.

First, the bad: though the conflict (heroes vs. megamaniacal robot) is as simplistic as ever, the film misfires most when it aims for more complexity. Specifically, its attempts at furthering character depth all too often read as character derailment. Stark’s morally ambiguous heedlessness is (necessarily, in light of the upcoming Captain America: Civil War) on full display here, but instead of coming across as vulnerable and conflicted (a la Iron Man 3), he’s as flippant and jokey as ever. Speaking of jokey, it’s a pity that writer/director Joss Whedon decided that the best way to counter claims of Captain America’s woodenness was to make him part of a lamer-than-lame running gag about sensitivity to harsh language. In comparison, his deadpanning from the previous film (“It appears to be powered by some sort of electricity.”) was considerably more amusing. This does not even touch upon the film’s awkwardly shoehorned romantic subplot or the tendency for characters to go from comrades in arms to attacking each other (and visa versa) seemingly on a whim.

Ultimately, however, neither these script shortcomings nor a 140-minute runtime can erase how much fun the movie is. The action choreography remains top-notch with not only Cap (Chris Evans) and Natasha Romanoff/Black Widow (Scarlett Johansson) pulling off impressive melee acrobatics but newcomers Pietro Maximoff/Quicksilver (Aaron Taylor-Johnson) and Wanda Maximoff/Scarlet Witch (Elizabeth Olsen) making the most of their abilities (super speed and telekensis, respectively) as well. The pacing is also an asset here. While there are quieter, more intimate and contemplative scenes, they complement rather than kill the momentum built by the action, and are no wasted moments here. As a result, the film feels considerably shorter than it is.

Lastly, as misguided as some of the scripting and character decisions are, the cast refuses to mail it in. Downey remains amusingly affable and roguish as ever, Johansson and Ruffalo do the tortured soul thing without sacrificing either efficacy or believability, and Jeremy Renner gives his Clint Barton/Hawkeye character both sarcastic quips and a moral center. Spader certainly could have made Ultron sound colder and more calculating, but in a way, his Stark-patterned neurosis and all-too-human personality make the antagonist more unnerving.

With each successive (and successful) film, Marvel continues to both redefine the parameters of its own triumph and inch closer to the point where audiences will finally say “Enough!” Avengers: Age of Ultron occupies neither the upper nor the lower bound, and though it fumbles more than it should, it also exhilarates, amuses, reflects, and, ultimately wins the day.

8.25/10

The Marshall Free House (CLOSED)

NOTE: The Marshall Free House has since closed. The same ownership launched The Traveled Farmer in its stead.


Located at 1211 Battleground Avenue in Greensboro, The Marshall Free House offers upscale English pub fare for lunch and dinner. The restaurant includes two bar areas, outdoor seating, and indoor and outdoor fireplaces. A weekend brunch is offered as is a high tea menu.

If nothing else, my first visit to The Marshall Free House served as a testament to the value of experiencing things firsthand. High prices, inconsistent reviews, and a repeatedly delayed grand opening put me off giving this place a try, but in the end, I am more than glad that I did.

To start, the décor is quite impressive. It is easy enough to lay down some dark wood, low lights, and a beer sign or two and call yourself a pub, but The Marshall Free House really nails the details, waltzing right up to the edge of ostentation without crossing the line. The handsome bar areas, communal long tables, homey fireplaces, and other touches make for a comfortable ambiance. Seeing all this in person almost makes the laughably long time it took for this place to open a little easier to understand.

Service is another strong point. The tartan-clad servers are trained to give first-time patrons an introductory sales pitch, something I found overly showy but not altogether unwarranted. That aside, our server, Connor, was personable, knowledgeable, and made several helpful recommendations. Moreover, both food and drink arrived surprisingly quickly after our orders were placed: they run a tight ship here.

Speaking of food and drink, nothing we tried disappointed. An order of Scotch eggs had a great balance of textures (runny yolk on the inside, crispy panko on the outside), and my companion raved about the accompanying dill aioli. The menu offered a number of Anglo-Pub standards (bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, etc.) as well as a few intriguing sandwiches and other options (pork cheeks and pan seared salmon were both earmarked for future consideration). We decided to go classic, however, and did not regret it. My steak and ale pie may have been one of the best-smelling dishes I’ve ever had, and the taste was nearly its equal, tender beef, rich stew, golden brown crust, and all. My companion’s fish and chips, in addition to being absolutely huge, was also flaky and moist, well-breaded, and none too oily. A side of mushy peas, while texturally odd, was ultimately satisfying.

Should you favor a drink, The Marshall Free House is well-provisioned. If the 90-something varieties of whiskey are out of your price range (and they likely are), the beers – including several brewed right across the street at Pig Pounder – leave plenty to like. Our flight included two (Boar Brown and Banana Bread) that won me over, and I am nobody’s idea of a beer drinker.

The one blemish on what is otherwise an excellent dining experience is the pricing. While it is not outright thievery given either the quality of the food or the size of the portions, nearly $20 for fish and chips seems high no matter how much you dress it up, and other offerings are similarly steep. Abandon the pretense of dining at a pub and prepare to shell out for upscale cuisine, and you won’t get hit with sticker shock.

Even before it officially opened last year, The Marshall Free House had won its share of detractors. Prior to my visit, I was poised to place myself among their number. But the food, service, and atmosphere are simply too damn good for me to join the hatedom. I’ll be back.

8.25/10