Devall's Cajun Cuisine (CLOSED)

NOTE: Devall's closed in 2016.

Located at 3932 West Market Street in Greensboro, Devall’s Cajun Cuisine specializes in Cajun starters, sandwiches, and entrees for lunch and dinner. There are food and drink specials, a full service bar, and catering is available.

Though Devall’s is in walking distance and I love Cajun, I have visited only a few times since the restaurant opened last year. There are reasons for that infrequency, just as there are reasons I won’t swear off this place completely.

First, the good: Louisiana-bred owner/chef Roger Devall knows what he’s doing. The menu here is full of Cajun staples, and every one that I’ve had has been well-executed. The etouffee (available with shrimp or catfish) in particular is a standout: the rich brown roux is addictive. The red beans and rice features a nice, spicy Andouille and provides the hearty comfort of a stew. The jambalaya is quite good too albeit markedly different from the more familiar Creole style: this one is drier and smokier without a strong tomato presence.

Stray from Cajun, however, and the quality varies. The hush puppies, long and oddly shaped as they may be, are served fresh and are above average, and the cheesy twice-baked potato earns no complaints. But the coleslaw lacks much flavor, and on a recent visit, a steak ordered medium well came out leather tough (a mistake that our apologetic server did try to remedy).

Other aspects of  Devall’s are similarly hit-and-miss. The establishment is small, and the bead-adorned bar area with the television gives off sports bar vibes. However, the inviting red walls and tastefully placed Mardi Gras décor add considerably more class. Every server I’ve ever had here has been attentive and personable, but the kitchen operates at a leisurely pace. Most entrees are priced in the teens, certainly not a bad value for the quantity, but one wishes the sides were on par with the mains.

Devall’s location – in a half-abandoned shopping center between Guilford Country Republican Party Headquarters and a Chinese restaurant – isn’t doing it any favors, so here’s hoping it can stay afloat. The restaurant is by no means a sure thing, but there is enough here to make it at least an occasional option.

7.5/10