Sunday, February 23, 2014

The Worx

Located at 106 Barnhardt Street by the train tracks in Downtown Greensboro, The Worx offers upscale comfort food: soups, salads, sandwiches, steak, chicken, and seafood. There is a full-service bar, rotating specials, and brunch on weekends.

The best way to describe The Worx would be as a dressed-up pub. The pricing and presentation occasionally strive for something greater, but it’s a false ambition. You won’t find anything off-the-wall innovative, but if you play your cards right, you can certainly take in a satisfying meal.

Housed in a 120-plus-year-old building, The Worx makes good use of its space inside and out. Outdoor seating is nestled in a cozy-looking porch. Indoors, there is an industrial theme that feels more appropriate than overbearing: red walls, metal art, solid brick, and ductwork (in other words, decidedly NOT The Mad Hatter). Though it fills easily, the noise level is tolerable, and servers seem to take good care of their tables.

The menu here is limited but with enough versatility to get by. Seafood mac and cheese and a jumbo stuffed portabella seemed to be the only derivations from formula. Familiar or not, however, the execution was successful. The fried green tomatoes, topped with pimento, bacon, and balsamic, were among the best I had. A crab cake sandwich was slightly sweet and well put-together on a thick, buttery bun. The thick-cut parmesan fries it came with were hot and fresh, but lacked a savory note; copious application of pepper fixed that. My companion’s black bean burger was better seasoned than most, and the soup of the day (a bratwurst and bean concoction) had a surprising but welcome lemony note.

Prices ran slightly high. Considering the recent influx of artisanal burgers, paying $9 to $10 for one that is not is becoming increasingly indefensible. Though worthwhile, the $9 fried green tomatoes were also pricy for an app. Given the downtown location, however, The Worx isn’t outrageous.

While it may not have the gravitas to impress across the board, The Worx has enough going for it to merit a return visit. At the very least, The Worx is not a misnomer.


8/10

The Worx on Urbanspoon

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