Located at 106 Barnhardt Street by the train tracks in
Downtown Greensboro, The Worx offers upscale comfort food: soups, salads,
sandwiches, steak, chicken, and seafood. There is a full-service bar, rotating
specials, and brunch on weekends.
The best way to describe The Worx would be as a dressed-up
pub. The pricing and presentation occasionally strive for something greater, but
it’s a false ambition. You won’t find anything off-the-wall innovative, but if
you play your cards right, you can certainly take in a satisfying meal.
Housed in a 120-plus-year-old building, The Worx makes good
use of its space inside and out. Outdoor seating is nestled in a cozy-looking
porch. Indoors, there is an industrial theme that feels more appropriate than
overbearing: red walls, metal art, solid brick, and ductwork (in other words,
decidedly NOT The Mad Hatter). Though it fills easily, the noise level is
tolerable, and servers seem to take good care of their tables.
The menu here is limited but with enough versatility to get
by. Seafood mac and cheese and a jumbo stuffed portabella seemed to be the only
derivations from formula. Familiar or not, however, the execution was successful.
The fried green tomatoes, topped with pimento, bacon, and balsamic, were among
the best I had. A crab cake sandwich was slightly sweet and well put-together
on a thick, buttery bun. The thick-cut parmesan fries it came with were hot and
fresh, but lacked a savory note; copious application of pepper fixed that. My
companion’s black bean burger was better seasoned than most, and the soup of
the day (a bratwurst and bean concoction) had a surprising but welcome lemony
note.
Prices ran slightly high. Considering the recent influx of artisanal
burgers, paying $9 to $10 for one that is not is becoming increasingly
indefensible. Though worthwhile, the $9 fried green tomatoes were also pricy
for an app. Given the downtown location, however, The Worx isn’t outrageous.
While it may not have the gravitas to impress across the
board, The Worx has enough going for it to merit a return visit. At the very
least, The Worx is not a misnomer.
8/10
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