Mediterraneo

Located at 309-A Pisgah Church Road in the Village at North Elm, Mediterraneo offers Italian and Lebanese cuisine. Pasta dishes, pizzas, and sandwiches are among the menu offerings. Lunch specials are available Monday through Friday, and there is limited outdoor seating.

As a concept, a pan-Mediterranean restaurant holds plenty of appeal. Being able to sample the best from Italy, Greece, Turkey, and the Middle East is a food lover’s dream. Unfortunately, Mediterraneo does not live up to the potential of that concept. The menu is predominately standard Italian with a few Lebanese dishes thrown in. The “fusion,” as it is, is mostly in name only.

That said, the food is executed fairly well. An order of linguine with white clam sauce came with lots of fresh clams, and the pasta was cooked perfectly. My companion’s vegetable lasagna was well-sauced with good mushroom flavor (though the spinach was a bit feint). Several other menu items (I’m looking at you, lobster ravioli) seemed like good bets for future visits.

While there are no arguments to be had with the quality, the pricing is another story. None of the entrees come with salads, which made the $14 linguine and clams seem like a stretch. Almost all of the appetizers are priced $7 and up, and that includes offerings as simple as hummus or mozzarella sticks. Quite simply, you aren’t getting enough bang for your buck here.

Should you not let that deter you, you can enjoy Mediterraneo’s cozy ambiance….assuming you can find the place. The restaurant is tucked into a corner of a large shopping center and may take some searching to unearth. It is also a fairly small location (though, apparently, it used to be even smaller) albeit not a crowded one. The pseudo-classical décor (columns, art, faux-marble veneer on the tables) doesn’t mesh terribly well with the burnt orange walls, but at least it isn’t drab. The service doesn’t leave any room for complaint.

All told, Mediterraneo is not a bad place to enjoy a quality meal. Were it situated in a small town, it would probably be a marquee dining attraction. But here in Greensboro, the lack of value and the abundance of other options weigh heavily against it.

7.25/10