Fishbones

Located at 2119 Walker Ave. in Greensboro, Fishbones specializes in fish and seafood dishes. Burgers, salads, and tacos are also available. Fishbones offers a full-service bar, a late-night menu, chalkboard specials, and outdoor seating.

If the intersection of Walker and Elam is a wheel of dining and drinks, then Fishbones is an oft-neglected spoke. It may not boast of quite the same recognition as Sticks n Stones or the Lindley Filling Station, but on food quality alone, it can hang comfortably with, if not outshine, its neighbors.

For a restaurant with “fish” in the name, Fishbones offers a surprising amount of diversity. Thai beef salad, adobo pork tenderloin, Tex-Mex turkey, and a fried bologna sandwich are among the non-piscine menu options. And while a number of these looked tempting, you can’t go wrong by sticking with the ocean’s bounty. The crab soup, a house specialty, was rich and disarmingly spicy (I had expected a smoother, bisque-like soup, but this version is enjoyable in its own right). A snapper on blackboard special tasted fresh, and it was well-paired with fried green tomatoes and a bed of sweet potatoes and greens. My companion’s fried Cajun catfish was light and flaky, and her sides well exceeded expectations. The blackened green beans were smoky and irresistible, the rice and beans were hearty, and the garlic spinach provided a potent kick.

Pricing is quite reasonable for the quality of the food. My companion’s $12.50 catfish was generously portioned and plated; my slightly more expensive snapper somewhat less so. Still, nothing here breaks the bank. Even salmon and tuna entrees top out at $13, and there are plenty of sub-$10 options.

Were this the extent of the Fishbones experience, one could eat here and leave as happy as a clam. However, there is also the ambience to contend with. In terms of décor, Fishbones is essentially an aging bar superficially dressed up with metal fish sculptures. While some find quaint comfort in the well-worn wood floors, there is little of the same to be found in the high stools and closely spaced two-seat tables. Should you opt for outdoor eating, you will have more space but also plenty of traffic (foot and vehicle) to offset it. The servers are generally efficient, but as Fishbones fills up easily, expect slowdowns when busy.

Just like with the other spokes on the dining wheel, the popularity of the Walker-Elam location is both a blessing and a curse. You can expect a lively atmosphere well-suited for a good time among friends, but you can also expect crowding and waits. In Fishbones’ case, you can also expect uncomfortable seating and food that will be good enough to ultimately make it worth your while.

7.75/10