Monezi (CLOSED)

NOTE: Monezi has since closed.

Located at 5406 Sapp Road in Greensboro, Monezi offers a Brazilian-inspired buffet at a fixed price or by the pound for eat-in or carryout. A bakery and catering services are available as is limited outdoor seating.

On a stretch of West Wendover replete with chain eateries and copycats, Monezi certainly stands out. In fact, I can’t think of a single place quite like it in all of Greensboro. But for all the promise of its premise, there are a few frustrating inconsistencies that keep it from being a sure bet.

Housed near Party City in a former Schlotzky’s Deli, Monezi could seriously use more spacious digs. The restaurant is divided between the dining area and the buffet area. The former is bright and open with large windows, colorful artwork, and music that is upbeat without being intrusive. But the thoughtfulness that went into creating a nice atmosphere is tempered by the limited floorspace. The tables are close enough together to hinder the prospects of a nice, quiet meal (especially if the restaurant gets busy).

On the buffet side of things, those who associate the b-word with subpar Chinese and Golden Corral would do well to drop those expectations. The food here is of a substantially higher quality. The presentation is nothing fancy, but everything looked fresh and appealing.

Monezi is careful to refer to itself as “inspired by Brazil,” and for good reason. While there are Brazilian dishes to be found here, some of the offerings (polenta, paella, chicken Marsala) take on a decidedly internationalist bent. There is enough variety here to suit everyone from vegetarians to meataholics, and the food quality is as varied as the selection. Sausages were tasty but had a tough coating while beef filet was quite tender yet bland. Sides fared better: the rice and beans (two kinds here), plantains, and polenta all hit the spot.

Monezi is also big on customization, which makes it either a great value or a terrible one depending on your selectivity. The per-pound option runs $6.95/pound. I was able to completely fill a plate for $10, a relative bargain for the amount of food. The fixed price comes in at $18.95: not outrageous given the food here, but you would have to be quite hungry to justify it. Those who bother with salad overpay at their own peril.

Upon your first visit, one of Monezi’s blue-shirted staff will gladly inform you of the restaurant’s concept and let you know which plate to take (one color for per-pound, another for fixed price). The servers (yes, they still bring you drinks) appeared to be patient, always moving, and politely responsive to questions, which they must receive in droves.

Ultimately, Monezi is a restaurant without peer. The food is superior to and the prices higher than other buffet-style eateries, but on taste and atmosphere, it falls short of the standard set by international restaurants that happen to offer a buffet (think Saffron or Taste of Thai). This identity crisis precludes giving a definitive rating, but the variety of the menu and the ingenuity of the concept do make it worth at least one visit.