Monday, May 16, 2011

Vietnamese Garden Cuisine (CLOSED)


NOTE: Vietnamese Garden has since closed. Los Gordos Mexican Cafe currently operates in its location.

Located at 2505 Battleground Ave., Vietnamese Garden offers Vietnamese dishes, sushi, and desserts. Lunch specials are available from 11-2:30 Monday to Friday, and the restaurant is open all day on Saturdays.

Vietnamese Garden is Vietnamese food for Americans who can’t handle the real thing. Whereas the more authentic establishments tend to put a lot of emphasis on the food, Vietnamese Garden plays up appearances. The décor is handsome and tasteful: dark mustard colored walls, bamboo accents, and plenty of artwork. Don’t go here expecting a quiet meal, though: the restaurant’s popularity among families and the business crowd means you’re in for a boisterous dining experience. It also means you could be in for some wait time, both before and after you get your table.

Of course, the wait and the noise would be abundantly more tolerable if the food raised its game. I tried the combination (pork, shrimp, and spring roll) vermicelli bowl on two occasions. It was decent the first time around, but the pork was overcooked on the second occasion. It’s also telling that the menu offers an extremely limited selection of pho, the noodle soup that has become synonymous with Vietnamese cuisine.

On the other hand, that very same menu can’t help but curry (pun intended) the favor of diners seeking a break from the usual. Braised quail, crab fried rice, and stuffed calamari rolls give me hope that I’ve simply been ordering the wrong thing. The dessert selection is also impressive and showcases French influences. Mousses and ganaches abound.

For those new to Vietnamese cuisine, Vietnamese Garden is probably a good way to gain an introduction without overwhelming your palette. But if you know what a proper pho or mixed bowl is supposed to look/taste like, better options exist. Only the breadth of the menu encourages a repeat visit.

6.75/10

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