I wanted to make my last meal of 2010 a steak. After balking at the crowds at two steakhouses, I ended up at Lucky 32. Had I known what I was in for, I would have made it my first choice rather than my third. Owned by the Quaintance-Weaver group (the folks responsible for the Green Valley Grill and Print Works), Lucky 32 offers top-notch food at fairly reasonable prices.
The Southern-influenced menu offers dressed-up versions of regional favorites. Shrimp and grits, chicken and dumplings, and pulled pork all make an appearance, but nobody will be mistaking the presentation for Cracker Barrel. There were enough enticing options that I nearly abandoned my planned steak. In the end, I stuck to my guns and was richly rewarded: the blue cheese and herb crusted sirloin was tender and flavorful. Creamy mashed potatoes and a crunchy grit cake provided a good balance of textures and flavors.
For upscale dining, Lucky 32 is remarkably wallet-friendly. My steak and three sides cost only $21, and most of the entrees run under $20. That’s decidedly cheaper than Print Works or Green Valley, and the food compares favorably.
Ambience, however, is a different story. While Print Works is known for its bright, open atmosphere and Green Valley exudes stately and cavernous, Lucky 32 is a darker, more intimate space. There is plenty of seating, but space between tables is at a premium.
Service during my visit was prompt – a pleasant surprise given the New Year’s Eve crowds. Servers were courteous, though not the chatty sort. Questions regarding the menu were quickly answered.
Refined yet affordable, Lucky 32 is a must for anyone who wants to savor Southern cooking done right. It hasn’t edged Print Works as far as I’m concerned, but it still merits several return engagements.
8.5/10
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