Located at the intersection of Walker and Elam Aves., Sticks & Stones offers small plates, salads and, of course, pizza. Many varieties of beer are also available, and food/drink specials rotate regularly.
For Sticks & Stones, “local pizzeria” is more than just a geographic identifier – it’s part of a much deeper philosophy. The restaurant prides itself on procuring fresh, often organic ingredients from North Carolina-based farms, markets and creameries. The communitarian approach extends to baking pizzas in wood-burning ovens and using pizza boxes made from recycled paper.
The eclecticism doesn’t end there though. Everything on the menu is named for a Ryan Adams song. This odd touch may delight fans, but will likely confuse, if not annoy, the non-listener. Throw in a sparse-but-intimate ambiance (wood tables/booths and low lighting) and a consistently friendly wait staff and you’re left with an establishment which is anything but forgettable.
The food nearly comes close to matching the distinction of Sticks & Stones’ other intangibles. Pizza topping combinations include everything from fried eggplant, wild mushrooms and caramelized garlic (A Kiss Before I Go, sure to become a favorite) to sopressata, arugula, mozzarella and pine nuts (New York, New York) and, of course, you can always make your own. The local ingredients are high-quality and the flavor combinations work well, though the crust (thick and bland) is lackluster. Salads are bolstered by touches like pumpkin seeds (Peaceful Valley) and honeyed walnuts (Dance All Night).
In keeping with the considerate ethos, Sticks & Stones does not price its way out of the community. Large pies feed three and run $20 or less. That may seem like sticker shock for those used to chain prices, but you get what you pay for. Salads will set you back $4.25 to $7.25 depending on the size and small plates vary considerably.
The biggest drawback here, by far, is the susceptibility toward crowding. Go here on a busy night and expect to wait: for a table, for your food, for your headache to go away (the acoustics here leave something to be desired), et cetera. Of course, that assumes that you can even find parking: the small lot fills up quickly.
As I mentioned in my Mellow Mushroom review, what makes a “good” pizza is largely a subjective affair. So to is what makes a good pizza place. Cozy yet quirk-laden, Sticks & Stones may not be everyone’s cup of tea (or can of sauce, as the case may be), but the fried eggplant alone makes it worth investigating.
8/10
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