Thursday, October 25, 2018

Venom


Biotech entrepreneur Carlton Drake (Riz Ahmed), the founder of the Life Foundation, fears that Earth will soon become uninhabitable and funds a space mission seeking a new world. The mission yields the discovery of several symbiotic lifeforms, which Drake believes will enable humans to adapt beyond Earth. Eddie Brock (Tom Hardy), a hardnosed, street-smart reporter with a controversial reputation, looks into Drake’s activities and in the course of discovering unethical human testing becomes bonded to one of the symbiotes. The symbiote, which calls itself Venom, grants Brock superhuman abilities at the expense of increased bloodlust, and the two must find a compromise to thwart a symbiote invasion of earth.

This movie was never really going to work. Venom began life not just as a Spider-Man character but as Spider-Man’s dark mirror. A Venom movie without the web-slinger (a necessity due to complex rights issues) is as fatally flawed a concept as a John Lennon biopic that makes no mention of The Beatles. Even absent that conceit, Venom is simply not very good. It has several bright spots (namely, Hardy’s relationship with the symbiote), but too much of it feels slapdash, merely adequate, a shadow of better (superhero and non-superhero) films.

Hardy is at once both an inspired choice and a poor fit for the title role. In the comics, Brock was fueled by Catholic guilt and resentment (Spider-Man ruined his journalistic reputation, which gave it a common grievance with the symbiote, whom the hero rejected) and had a weightlifter’s physique. Hardy’s take is missing all of those things, and his slurred American accent sounds off for the Bay Area setting. On the other hand, Hardy does convey Brock’s journalistic toughness and concern for the innocent. Moreover, Hardy also plays the symbiote (through voice modulation) as a voice in Brock’s head, and their banter isn’t spot on. When Venom isn’t chiding Eddie for being soft or encouraging him to eat people, it is playing matchmaker between Brock and his ex, Anne (Michelle Williams), or confessing its appreciation for its human host. This dynamic supplies both humor and pathos and is easily the best thing Venom has going for it.

Beyond that, the film got the character’s look (minus the giant white spider symbol, for obvious reasons) mostly right. A toothy, muscular mass of murderous tendrils, this depiction of Venom will erase all the bad impressions left by Topher Grace’s lackluster turn a decade prior. Here, you are getting a horror-movie monster in a quasi-heroic role, and the film never lets you forget the former part of that equation.

Unfortunately, the rest of the movie ranges from adequate to subpar. Williams does what she can as Anne, a voice of skepticism and reason, but isn’t given much screen time to work with. Ruben Fleischer’s direction of action sequences is competent yet also recalls more innovative work in more memorable films: compare the motorcycle chase here with some of the chase scenes in Captain America films. On the lower end of the spectrum, the film’s antagonists are forgettable. Ahmed not-so-subtly evokes Elon Musk on villainy steroids: the affability is paper-thin, the concern for mankind misplaced, and the sociopathy cranked way up. Similarly, the rival symbiote Riot (Venom’s spawn in the comics) cheaply borrows both prominence and abilities from another much more memorable character (Carnage, also Venom’s spawn – the symbiote family tree is complicated to say the least) whose absence is keenly felt.


Were Venom launched in the years before the Marvel Cinematic Universe, it would likely provide plenty of satisfaction. It’s visually engaging, fast-paced, and despite the derivations, true enough to the core of the character. However, given all the success Marvel has had in adapting its own characters for the big screen, this Sony offering simply can’t keep up.

Sleeping Beauties

A strange sleeping sickness called Aurora is causing the world’s women to stop waking up. Trapped in deep sleep, they form protective cocoons, and if disturbed, they respond with homicidal rage. In the town of Dooling, West Virginia, a mysterious woman named Eve Black might hold all the answers. Eve, who demonstrates precognition as well as the ability to remain awake, is currently locked up in the state women’s prison after murdering a pair of meth cooks. The prison’s psychiatrist, Clint Norcross, pledges to keep Eve alive and well in exchange for her help bringing the women back, but men outside the prison, who hold Eve responsible for Aurora, have other ideas.

Co-authored by Stephen King and his younger son Owen, Sleeping Beauties represents both the best and the worst of what the family has to author. On the one hand, it deploys many of Stephen’s trademark elements (page-turning tension, small-town intrigue, supernatural suspense) with a renewed sense of vigor. On the other hand, it also plays to the worst of Stephen’s excesses and by its latter chapters reads as a preachy, self-indulgent slog.

It is impossible to decipher which King is responsible for which of the book’s 700 pages, but one could read Sleeping Beauties as Owen giving his old man’s usual tricks a fresh coat of paint. From Castle Rock to Derry and beyond, Stephen’s work has often developed a keen sense of place, and in particular, has rendered small-town dynamics with convincing clarity. That much holds true here, but leaving Maine for Appalachia is a welcome change.

Similarly, Stephen’s solo work has featured no shortage of memorable characters, some admirable everymen and tenacious hard-luck women; others bigoted creeps and otherworldly abominations. All of the above can be found here, and while some characters (namely, Clint and the loathsome CO Don Peters) seem true to type, Owen’s contribution seems to be able to write the kinds of characters that Stephen can’t. The elder King has often stumbled writing characters of color, rendering them as Magical Negroes out of an admitted sense of white guilt. Sleeping Beauties breaks this trend in the form of Frank Geary, a black animal control officer who steps up in a time of crisis. Geary’s cunning, competence, and concern for his daughter are offset by a wicked temper and the kind of rules-enforcement sticklerism that would make an accountant blush. King Sr. has also struggled for the past decade to portray teens convincingly, not a surprise given that he is in his 70s. But here, Clint’s son Jared, the boys who antagonize him, and the girl he pines for are all rendered a bit more believably. Other colorful characters include Clint’s wife Lila (the town’s chief law enforcement officer), Van Lampley (an arm-wrestling champion correctional officer), Michaela (the prison warden’s coke-snorting TV news reporter daughter), and Angel Fitzroy (a more malevolent, less intelligent redneck Harley Quinn). Disappointingly, Eve Black remains a cipher for much of the story, her layers never really pulling back.

Speaking of disappointment, Sleeping Beauties features one of the more inept and heavy-handed treatments of theme in recent memory. The book’s very premise is an effective commentary on the way that society undervalues women, but that does not stop the Kings from resorting to filibustering about The Evils of Men for much of the novel’s latter third, a message hypocritically undercut by the number of murders committed by female characters.


Ultimately, Sleeping Beauties is an intriguing letdown, a book brimming with vitality and promise undone by the authors’ stubborn refusal to step off of the soapbox long enough for the story to speak for itself.

Sunday, September 16, 2018

Tampopo Ramen & Hibachi

Located at 4929 West Market Street in Greensboro’s FantaCity International Shopping Center, Tampopo Ramen & Hibachi specializes in ramen but also offers hibachi dishes and Japanese appetizers. The restaurant is open from 11 to 9 every day except for Sunday.

Instant ramen may be a staple of college dorm sustenance, but it also gives the real thing a bad name. For those who have never had a chance to experience genuine ramen, Tampopo will deliciously illuminate all you have been missing.

Tampopo is a smallish space though patterned chair covers and wall art give the domain some personality. It seems to do a brisk lunch trade, which is great for its coffers but puts a strain on the constantly bustling servers, who are at least polite and helpful (a thick noodle suggestion proved to be a good call) when available.

The menu here offers the expected apps (gyoza, tempura, edamame) and hibachi plates (chicken, shrimp, steak, veggies, etc.), but the ramen offerings are really what set Tampopo apart. There are about half a dozen ramen offerings here, varying in broths (pork, chicken, or vegetable), flavor profiles (miso, soy, or spicy), and toppings. Additional toppings can be added for an upcharge, allowing for a highly customizable experience.

For our first visit, I went with a champon ramen (a Nagasaki specialty with seafood and a spicy broth) while my wife opted for the classic tonkatsu (pork broth) ramen. The dishes were a good value at $12 and $10, respectively, as they came in huge bowls that easily yielded two meals apiece.




Both bowls presented well with plenty of meat, vegetables, and noodles. The champon ramen was tasty but punishing: plan on drinking plenty of water if you want to take it on. The tonkatsu ramen, ordered spicy, still had a kick, but its flavors were more complex. Both dishes were hearty and filling.


Tampopo is not the only place in Greensboro that offers real ramen, but it certainly provides the most variety and the most intriguing examples thereof. Whether or not it becomes a favorite depends on your taste for the titular dish, but the next time you find yourself craving soup on a cold or rainy day, give it a try.

Krankies

Located at 211 East 3rd Street in downtown Winston-Salem, Krankies specializes in coffee but also offers breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, and burgers. There is a full bar, outdoor seating, and regularly rotating food and drink specials.

I put off visiting Krankies for years in part because it seemed to bear the marks of being a victim of its own success: a local favorite whose popularity invites expectations that it cannot hope to meet. When I finally did get around to giving Krankies a try, I expected to deem it overrated and go back to avoiding it. Fortunately, my skepticism proved to be misplaced.

Krankies is housed in a good-sized space that has both an industrial mien (overhead ducts and brick walls) and enough artwork to offer a contrast to it. Those who treat coffee shops as offices away from home may find Krankies distractingly boisterous, but for most other patrons, it’s not too loud.

My first visit was on a Saturday morning, which gave me a chance to try the brunch menu. From egg dishes (huevos rancheros and benedicts) to sweet breads (French toast) to biscuits to lunch sandwiches (a cheesy western burger and a BLT), nearly everything looked good. I ultimately settled on a chicken biscuit with gravy while my wife went with the weekend BLT on sourdough.




Though Krankies was moderately busy, our food came relatively quickly, and we were not let down. The chicken was generously sized, thickly battered, and tender, and while the biscuit wasn’t quite to Rise levels, it was still satisfyingly buttery. The BLT’s bacon was just crisp enough, and the avocado and egg gave the sandwich some nice textural variety. The coffee was a hit as well: my vanilla latte was smooth without any bitterness.

At first glance, Krankies’ prices may seem a bit high: $7 for the chicken biscuit and $8 for the BLT, neither of which came with a side. However, both sandwiches were quite filling, and the pricing is fair for the quality of the food. Service was also on-point, as our server, an affable future costume designer, provided helpful recommendations.

Before I checked it out firsthand, I expected Krankies to be a mediocre, hipster infested, and grossly overpriced. Instead, I found myself surprised by how much I liked it, and I would not hesitate to return.


NOTE: The narrow parking lot can be a pain, but there is plenty of additional parking in walking distance.
Krankies Coffee Bar Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Thursday, September 6, 2018

Master Tea Cafe and Bites

Located at 5103 West Market Street in Greensboro, Master Tea Café and Bites offers teas, coffees, and smoothies as well as Vietnamese sandwiches, meals, and snacks. The restaurant is open from 11 to 9 Sunday through Thursday and 11 to 11 on Friday and Saturday. Books and board games are available.

Situated beside a paint store in a plaza between FantaCity International Shopping Center and Ace Hardware, Master Tea is, like many of Greensboro’s hidden gems, easy to overlook. But if you are able to find a parking space in the smallish lot, you will be glad that you stopped by. Whether you have a bubble tea craving, are in search of an inexpensive meal, or just want a break from run-of-the-mill coffee shops, Master Tea has a lot to offer.

As the name implies, beverages are the main attraction here, and Master Tea has plenty to choose from. You can opt for milk teas (with boba), fruit teas, hot teas, matchas, coffees, or smoothies. The food side of the menu is more limited but not without appeal. There are seven different types of banh mi sandwiches as well as a few entrees (vermicelli bowls and pho) and snacks that range from the expected (egg rolls and spring rolls) to the surprising (crispy quail and kimchi fries).





For our first visit, my wife and I went with a taro milk tea and lemongrass banh mi and a Thai tea and a bulgogi banh mi, respectively. The teas were perhaps the best milk teas in town: smooth and refreshing without any graininess or unpleasantly artificial flavors. The sandwiches were good but not great. The sauces delivered the expected flavors and the meats were none too tough, but both banh mi were a bit small and may rankle sticklers for authenticity.

Our food and drinks arrived relatively quickly, and our server was helpful and patient while we ordered. The pricing proved quite budget-friendly though not the outright steal that Banh Mi Saigon Bakery is. Sandwiches were $5 a piece while the teas were $3.75 for a regular (16 ounce) and $5.25 for a large (24 ounce).

While Saigon Bakery may off both lower prices and more sandwiches to choose from Master Tea has a distinct advantage in the décor department. From a well-scribbled chalkboard wall to repurposed doors and shutters as ornaments to blue and yellow hues, Master Tea offers a bright and clean environment that is fun and relaxing without being ostentatious. The establishment is also deceptively spacious.

Good service, tasty food, and affordable prices make Master Tea a worthwhile lunch/tea/snack option for all but the most steadfast purists. I cannot speak to the quality of the pho, snacks, or smoothies, but what I did taste has given me reason enough to come back.


8/10

Monday, August 13, 2018

Burgerim

Located at 2505 Battleground Avenue in Greensboro, Burgerim serves slider-sized burgers, shakes, and fries. Outdoor seating is available as are carry-out party boxes.

Greensboro had no great need of yet another burger joint when Burgerim opened in the former Los Gordos location last month, but the slider-centric focus at least offers this Israeli chain’s first North Carolina store a chance to stand out. The concept is a winner, but everything else, so far, is a mixed bag.

Choice is Burgerim’s calling card and biggest asset. Combos come with fries and a drink and your pick of one (Uno), two (Duo), or three (Trio) sandwiches with three-ounce patties. Those patties can be chicken, lamb, turkey, salmon, veggie, falafel, or one of five (!!) different kinds of beef. Choose between a white or wheat bun, and then either select your toppings (all the standards are available as are tahini, garlic aioli, and habanero mayo) or go with a signature style such as classic (American cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles, onions, and house sauce), cowboy (cheddar, bacon, onion ring and BBQ), California (Swiss, greens, tomato, avocado, and chipotle mayo), or caliente (pepper jack, jalapenos, lettuce, Cajun seasoning, and habanero mayo). Even the fries can be ugraded in form (sweet potato fries, onion rings, or a half-fry, half-ring blend) and flavor (Cajun, jalapeno and cheese, or bacon and cheese). While this many options makes for an indecisive person’s nightmare, it affords everyone else a wealth of possibilities.




For our first visit, my wife and I each went with a differently-kitted Duo combo. We anticipated some degree of trial-and-error, and true to expectations, there were certain things we wouldn’t hesitate to try again and certain things that were a mistake the first time. All of the patties were cooked well-done, which resulted in disappointingly dry lamb. The merguez beef (seasoned with cumin, chili pepper, garlic, paprika, and roasted red pepper) was also not nearly as flavorful as the description suggested. On the other hand, the Spanish beef (smoked paprika, garlic, and chili pepper) delivered the advertised flavors, and the more tender dry-aged beef gets a definite recommendation. Burgerim’s fries are disc-shaped chips that call to mind scalloped potatoes. Topped with Cajun seasoning, they were tasty albeit salty. Topped with bacon and cheese, they proved messy and a bit greasy. For the amount of food given, the prices paid (a Duo combo is $9.99, topping and fry upgrades are .79 each) are fair.

Burgerim is blessed with helpful, hard-working staff and cursed with a layout/ordering system that does them no favors. Unlike other fast food restaurants, there is no real designated order area. Lines begin at the register, run toward a wall, and wind around the aisles between tables. One young man was working the floor and handing out menus, and his suggestions proved beneficial. Counter staff were equally accommodating of and patient with first-time guests. However, when orders are ready, staff call out a name and walk the floor, food in hand, looking for a raised arm or an acknowledgment, problematic given that the restaurant can get quite loud and that any line that forms at the drinks machine will undoubtedly get in their way. This seems like a recipe for chaos on busier days.

The menu possibilities alone make Burgerim worth checking out, but its appeal is tempered by uneven food and a potentially chaotic system.


7.25/10
Burgerim Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Monday, July 30, 2018

Whiskey Kitchen


Located at 201 Martin Street near Nash Square in Raleigh, Whiskey Kitchen specializes in whiskeys, cocktails, and Southern cuisine. Patio seating and private/event dining are available. The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday and 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Monday.

Coming from Greensboro, I was skeptical that anything could match 913 Whiskey Bar without being priced into the stratosphere. Raleigh’s Whiskey Kitchen managed to match its strengths – a deep drinks menu, a more compact food menu full of delicious-sounding Southern bites, friendly service, and affordable pricing – while providing considerably more space. Even if you are not a whiskey drinker, you can find plenty to like here.

Whiskey Kitchen is a casual, seat-yourself spot, with an inviting high-meets-low motif. Think brick-and-ductwork industrial with big garage doors but also a striking mural behind a sleek, long bar. The combination proved both distinctive and inviting.

Though Whiskey Kitchen offers food all day, certain items are only available during certain times. Lunch specials run from 11-3 while dinner entrees are offered from 5-11. My wife and I came in toward the end of the lunch shift and found several possibilities from among the admittedly limited (about six items) lunch menu. I opted for a smoked brisket melt, she took on the fried chicken sandwich, and we both did side salads instead of potato wedges to assuage our guilt.




Our food came out relatively quickly, and it did not disappoint. The brisket was neither too dry nor too greasy, the sweet sauce balanced the smoky flavor, and the crispy bread held the sandwich together well. The chicken had a buttermilk and sweet tea batter, a quirky combination that was thankfully not overwhelming, and the meat was moist and delicious. Considering the quality of the food and the downtown Raleigh location, the $10 apiece charged for each sandwich+side was confusingly affordable (the chicken sandwich goes up to a less impressive $13 if ordered past lunch hours).

All told, we had a great lunch at the Whiskey Kitchen, but we also visited during an off-hour (2:30 p.m. on a Saturday). During peak times, I can imagine the acoustics being somewhat unforgiving. Time it right, however, and you won’t regret stopping by.


8.5/10