The Penguin

 

Following the death of his boss Carmine Falcone, Ozwald “Oz” Cobb (Colin Farrell) aims to take control of Gotham City’s criminal underworld. However, the surviving members of the Falcone family stand in his way, including Carmine’s daughter Sofia (Crisin Milioti). Released from Arkham State Hospital where she was committed following a series of infamous Hangman murders, Sofia seeks revenge on those who wronged and ignored her. Oz senses a chance to form an alliance, but also hedges his bets by reaching out to the incarcerated Sal Maroni (Clancy Brown), the Falcones’ sworn enemy all while giving his young apprentice Victor (Rhenzy Feliz) an education on what it takes to survive.

 

Superheroless superhero spinoffs remain a dumb idea, and Sony’s abysmal Spider-Man Universe (sans Spider-Man) should kill any ambitions in that direction for years to come. Despite this, The Penguin – an HBO Batman spinoff series without Batman – somehow largely works. Its mature, grounded, character-driven approach, coupled with powerful acting, allow it to rise above the constraints of its premise.

 

Farrell, unrecognizable under heavy makeup and sporting a New York accent, made his debut in Matt Reeves’ The Batman, conjuring Al Capone-on-the-rise in his limited screentime. The Capone vibes remain, but in an expanded role, Oz shows several other influences ranging from Tony Soprano to the James Cagney gangsters of yore. Rather than the refined (or, at least, faux-refined) gentleman of the source material, this Penguin is a lower-class power-hungry lout with a massive chip on his shoulder. He’s affable and capable of commiserating with others, but he will also do whatever it takes to rise to the top.

 

While Farrell turns in a strong performance, Milioti matches it in complexity and impact. This version of Sofia is given a far more sympathetic backstory and a far more adversarial relationship with her family than exists in the source material. Milioti conveys both an icy calm and a righteous fury as she works her way through processing years of trauma. The supporting cast, from Feliz (overwhelmed wide-eyed newcomer meets resourceful quick thinker) to Brown (reliably intimidating) to Deirdre O’Connell (as Oz’s dementia-afflicted mother) are good as well though Theo Rossi is a bit distracting in an underwritten role as a crooked psychologist.

 

Credit also goes to showrunner Lauren LeFranc who succeeded in sustaining tension and maintaining a bleak and gritty tone. From its violence to the deep losses many of its characters face, The Penguin is a starkly brutal show, lacking the both the zaniness as well as the fun of earlier small-screen Bat fare such as Gotham. That might suggest a joyless slog, but thanks to high production values, an eclectic soundtrack, and glimmers of humanity amid the muck, it usually doesn’t play that way.

 

In a vacuum, The Penguin is worth a look as a character study that pits damaged souls against each other with increasingly high stakes. As part of a larger mythology, it sets up the next Batman film and then some.

Gladiator II

 

Years after the death of emperor Marcus Aurelius, his chosen successor Maximus, and his usurping son Commodus, Rome has slid further into tyranny under the misrule of twin emperors Geta (Joseph Quinn) and Caracalla (Fred Hechinger). Popular but war-weary general Acacius (Pedro Pasqual) conquers Numidia in North Africa in their name. In the process, Hanno (Paul Mescal) is captured and enslaved and his wife Arishat (Yuval Gonen) killed, leaving him to swear vengeance. His opportunity may come thanks to Macrinus (Denzel Washington), a gladiatorial gamesmaster who buys him. However, things are not what they seem: Hanno is really the former emperor’s grandson Lucious, his mother Lucilla (Connie Nielsen) plots with her husband Acacius to depose the emperors, and the ambitious Macrinus has an agenda all his own.

 

Given Gladiator’s critical and box office success, a follow-up seemed inevitable. One was in the works for decades (including, at one point, a crazy Nick Cave script that featured a resurrected, immortal Maximus) before it finally came together. The finished product (with a much more sedate script courtesy of David Scarpa) attempts to pull off playing on nostalgia for the first film without diminishing itself in the process, an endeavor at which it sometimes succeeds.

 

Narratively, Gladiator II is lackluster. Its story beats are often familiar to the point of predictable, and characters extoll the late Maximus’s virtues to an awkwardly repetitive extent. Only when Marcinus’s motives are revealed do we get what feels like an attempt to say something new.

 

Despite these shortcomings, the action, visuals, and even some of the acting is praiseworthy. Rumors of the 87-year-old Ridley Scott losing his touch with age are premature. His direction is as surefooted as ever, and he has a two-and-a-half movie feeling like one that runs a half-hour shorter. He managed to introduce even more spectacle to the coliseum combat scenes this time around without tilting too far into cartoonish absurdity.

 

No one expected Mescal to match Russell Crowe’s Oscar-winning performance, but he holds his own here. Whereas Maximus’s was a cold fury informed by martial discipline, Hanno’s burns hot. Mescal also gives the character a cynical edge. The more principled and dutiful aspects of Maximus’s character are passed off to Acacius, a role that Pascal handles capably but one that does little to challenge him. The returning Nielsen is likewise more a steady presence than a transcendent one. Washington is great as he often his, and he deploys his capacity for intensity amid calm to give Macrinus terrifying layers. That said, Quinn and Hechinger are wasted talents as largely one-dimensional Caligula wannabes.

 

Gladiator II does not quite measure up to let alone surpass the first film, but it offers enough craftsmanship and rousing entertainment to make it a worthy successor.

Austin Review Round-Up

A recent work conference took me to Austin for the first time. I didn’t get to do as much exploring as I would have were I on vacation, but I still took in enough of Downtown to make the experience worth a few reviews. With the exception of the hotel, I omitted national chains.

Omni Austin Hotel Downtown

Location: 700 San Jacinto Boulevard in Downtown Austin.

My homebase for this multi-day business trip, the Omni was large, sleek, and spacious: lots of floors and lots of glass. My room was clean and comfortable. The location – walkable to plenty and near several bus stops – is hard to beat. Check-in and check-out were both easy and convenient.

While this didn’t affect me, those driving in should be forewarned that the Omni charges a fortune ($60) for overnight parking. Due to the hotel’s size and location, you can also expect a bit of noise every now and then.

Overall, I enjoyed my stay here. If you have the coin for it, the Omni promises a fairly pleasant experience.

President’s House Coffee

President's House is the Omni’s coffee shop, and with that comes an implicit tradeoff: overpriced mediocrity in exchange for convenience. Measured against that standard, President’s House acquitted itself well. I stopped here once for lunch and once for breakfast and found a decent selection both times. They have plenty of coffee drinks, of course, but also pastries, sandwiches, bowls, and more. 

My first visit was a late lunch, and I opted for an Italian sandwich (soppressata, mortadella, prosciutto, provolone). “Adequate” would be the best way to describe it, but it was at least filling and, at $12, not outrageously priced. Breakfast the next day was better. The jalapeno cheddar sausage kolaches offered flaky dough and a nice bit of spice. The latte I had with it was smooth and provided a needed pre-conference pick-me-up.

President’s House also benefits from a decent amount of seating and friendly staff. For a quick breakfast before you leave to face the world, President’s House was better than I expected.

Vaquero Taquero

 

Located at 603 Sabine Street with another location north of the University of Texas campus, Vaquero Taquero is a taqueria/bar/music venue. It is open Thursday-Saturday from 5 p.m. – 3 a.m. and Monday 5-11. Patio seating and online ordering are available.

This fun, funky spot is as authentic as it gets: it evolved from a street cart, tortillas are homemade, and meat is slow-cooked on a trompo. The simple menu boasts tacos (al pastor, chicken tinga, nopales, and beef with birria subbing in for carne asada at the time of my visit), chips, and drinks.

I opted for one birria and one pastor taco. Both were prepped quickly and served loaded with fillings. The pastor had excellent flavor, and I was sorely tempted to get another. I don’t know how Vaquero Taquero stacks up against other local taquerias, but coming from an out-of-towner with plenty of respectable taco options back home, this place rocks.

Iron Works Barbecue

Located at 100 Red River Street, Iron Works Barbecue offers Texas barbecue for lunch and dinner. It is open from 11-9 Monday-Saturday. Online ordering and family meals to go are available.

If my earlier visit to Waco taught me anything, it is that brisket is a must during trips to the Lone Star State. I knew I wanted a place that was tried-and-true but also didn’t have a line out the door, and Iron Works fit the bill nicely. It’s a historical site with still-running wood-burning stoves and lots of old photos on the walls, so the pedigree was there. The menu boasted plates, sandwiches, desserts, and meats by the pound. While sausage or smoked turkey may have tempted me on another occasion, I zeroed in on a sliced beef sandwich, which was prepared almost immediately.

 

All told, it was good but not quite great. The brisket was very tender but didn’t quite deliver the smokiness I had hoped for. At $12.95, the sandwich came sans sides, but it was at least decently sized. Even if it didn’t blow me away, I’m glad I gave Iron Works a try.

Revolucion

 

Located at 200 San Jacinto Boulevard (with other locations in San Antonio), Revolucionoffers coffee, juices, smoothies, tacos, and more. Online ordering is available.

I had been walking around downtown in the cold and rain and needed a hot drink to forge ahead. Revolucion seemed a good bet, and it delivered. It’s a bright and bustling shop with a decent amount of space. I opted for the Revolucion latte (with lavender and honey). I could definitely taste the syrups used, but they weren’t overwhelming. Revolucion made for an ideal coffee stop though had I found it earlier in the day, I would have probably been all over the breakfast tacos.

BookPeople

 

Located at 603 North Lamar Boulevard, BookPeople is Texas’s largest independent bookstore. It includes a coffee shop and hosts events such as book clubs and author talks. It is open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

BookPeople pulls off the rare feat of being huge without seeming impersonal. The vibe is welcoming, and there are plenty of staff on hand. At the same time, the selection is absurd (in a good way). There are two floors to explore here, and everything is thoughtfully laid out and clearly labeled. The worst that can be said about BookPeople is that for out-of-town visitors, it will make you mad that there isn’t one near you. 

Wee’s Cozy Kitchen

Located inside of Royal Blue Grocery at 609 Congress Avenue, Wee’s Cozy Kitchen offers Malaysian cuisine from 4-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Online ordering is available (and encouraged).

I’m no stranger to restaurants inside of other businesses, but this one took some getting used to. While there are a few tables inside of Royal Blue, Wee’s is definitely better equipped for takeout. There’s a separate register toward the front of the store for you to place your order. However, there’s a very good chance the proprietor will be in the back making food, so it’s really a spot for you to browse the menu and order online.

Once you get past the set-up, however, Wee’s is very, very good. The menu offers Malaysian curries, noodles, satays, snacks, and drinks. I opted for a beef rendang and a Thai green tea. After about 15-20 minutes, Wee emerged to hand me my order. She gave me a warm greeting and seemed invested in me enjoying my meal.

 

And enjoy it I did! The meat was tender, the sauce rich and creamy, and the coconut flavors paired well with the pickled vegetables. There was also a lot of it: for $18, I felt like I got my money’s worth.

Wee’s Cozy Kitchen is easy to miss unless you’re looking for it, but if you stop by, you’re in for a treat.

Malone Specialty Coffee

 

Malone Specialty Coffee operates a roastery/café at 14735 Bratton Lane and a trailer at 318 East Fifth Street. I stopped by the latter in search of coffee and a smoothie and found a decent selection of both (they also have bagels if you are so inclined). The helpful barista recommended a Southside Caramel, and I paired that with a Green Power smoothie. 

The caramel latte came with a dash of cinnamon, and it was quite good: sweet but not cloying. While the smoothie (spinach, pineapple, OJ, and protein) tasted good as well, it proved a bit chunky and difficult to drink (poor straw construction, perhaps?). This was neither the best coffee I had in Austin nor the worst, but at the very least, it’s a convenient option for those near the Convention Center.

Fareground

Located at 111 Congress Avenue, Fareground is Austin’s food hall. It features French, Venezuelan, Mexican, Mediterranean, a bar, and a coffee trailer. It can be booked for private events.

My experiences with food halls have been mixed, but I’m still interested in checking them out when I come across them. Fareground is probably the most nicely appointed I’ve come across. It’s busy without being overwhelmingly noisy, and there’s a decent amount of seating and space. 

That said, there simply aren’t enough vendors here. Only four actual restaurants makes for disappointingly slim pickings for a city of Austin’s size. Hopefully, that can change in the future.

 

Austin Rotisserie

“Fast French” seems almost oxymoronic, yet this eatery inside the Fareground food hall (there's another Austin Rotisserie location on Lamar) offers an approximation thereof. You can get varying quantities of rotisserie chicken, soups, salads, and baguette sandwiches. I opted for the latter. 

At $14 with no sides, my Norwegian baguette (smoked salmon, goat cheese, arugula, tomato, vinaigrette, and roti sauce) was no bargain though it managed to be reasonably filling. The flavor was good though the sauce dripping through the sandwich made for a messier-than-expected meal. Sadly, the baguette was a letdown: chewy and lacking the softer inside. Très meh.

Carve American Grille

Located at 7415 Southwest Parkway (with another location in Central Austin), Carve specializes in steaks and craft cocktails. Patio and private dining are available. An on-site butcher can prepare cuts to go. The restaurant is open from 11-10 Monday-Saturday and 11-9 on Sunday.

Carve’s gimmick is copious use of smoke and fire: even the desserts involve taking a torch to some Smores. As steakhouses go, this helps give it a unique identity, but thankfully, Carve proved to be more than just sizzle.

Our group of seven split a spinach artichoke dip starter and a few sides for the table: truffle steak fries, mac and cheese, and charred brussels sprouts. I then went with a smoked sliced New York strip. Service was attentive throughout the meal, and we didn’t have long to wait for anything.

 

Across the board, the food was very good. This was my first time trying a smoked steak, and it won’t be my last. It was tender with a nice crust, and it paired well with caramelized onions and a truffle merlot sauce. The “steak fries” were definitely closer to potato wedges, but they were crisp, salty, and tasty just the same. I tend to avoid Brussels sprouts unless they are prepared especially well, and Carve’s qualify: the char and the sweet sauce eradicated any trace bitterness.

Carve exceeded expectations even for an upscale (read: expensive but not fine dining) meal. If you have an occasion to celebrate, it’s well worth a look.

The Hideout

Located at 617 Congress Ave, The Hideout bills itself as Downtown Austin’s oldest independent coffeehouse. It also shares a building and a name with an improv theatre that offers shows and lessons for kids and adults. The coffeeshop is open from 7 a.m.- 7 p.m. Monday-Wednesday, 7-10 Thursday and Friday, 8-11 Saturday, and 8-5 Sunday. Online ordering is available.

 

Though overpriced ($7 for a 16 ounce vanilla iced latte), The Hideout is otherwise everything you’d want in a local coffee shop. There’s local art for sale on the walls, they stock bites and baked good, and the baristas are friendly and fast. The coffee was good though not appreciably better than similar drinks that cost less elsewhere.

Mexic-Arte Museum

 

Located at 419 Congress Avenue, Mexic-Arte Museum features Mexican and Latin-American art and culture displays. It is open Monday-Thursday from 10-6, Friday and Saturday from 10-5, and Sunday from 12-5. The museum offers tours and workshops and sponsors events such as an annual Taste of Mexico.

Occupying a single floor, Mexic is small: a mere handful of rooms. Given that size, the $8 admission seems like a reach. Look past that, however, and Mexic offers unique art ranging from murals to photos to an elaborate room-sized nativity display. The gift shop is well worth a look as well.

As museums go, Mexic-Arte’s size and scope are underwhelming. However, this place serves an important mission and gives you a chance to see art you probably won’t find elsewhere.

Moonshine Patio Bar & Grill

 

Located at 303 Red River Street (with another location at West Parmer and Avery Ranch), Moonshine serves comfort food and cocktails. It is open from 11-10 Monday-Friday, 10-10 on Saturday, and 9-2 (brunch) and 4-9 on Sunday. Online ordering, patio seating, and catering are available.

Housed in a historic building, Moonshine exudes charm, which is why it was packed even on a Monday night. I was lucky enough to find a seat at the bar. While the bartenders were great, the noise levels prompted me to make mine a quick meal. Had I caught Moonshine during a less busy time, I suspect I really would have enjoyed the experience.

Instead, I’ll have to settle for “only” really liking the food. Moonshine’s menu is a fun mix of Mexican and Southern influences with steaks, chops, and burgers thrown in as well. I usually pounce on shrimp and grits and would have here had not a blackened catfish caught my eye.

Thankfully, it proved to be the right call. It came topped with crawfish tails, a not-hot hot sauce, and pecan meuniere and served with stone ground grits. The fish was flaky, the grits were creamy and cheese, the pecans added a welcome crunch, and while hot sauce may have been a misnomer, damn if it wasn’t good. It paired well with an Austin Eastcider (when in Rome…) Blackberry, and at under $30 pre-tax, it felt like a good deal for a good meal.

If I’m ever back in Austin, a return to Moonshine seems like a must. I’ll just need to catch them during a slower hour…if such exists.

Capital A

The Omni’s restaurant, Capital A is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a bar that serves until midnight. As with President’s House Coffee, Capital A is best approached with the knowledge that you’re paying for the convenience of not having to venture outside. And, as with President’s House, it’s respectable by hotel dining standards. 

I stopped by for breakfast on my last day in town and was seated promptly. After considering the assortment of omelets, sandwiches, and other fare (including, surprisingly shakshuka), I opted for the migas tacos. They came filled with beef, eggs, jalapenos, pico de gallo, and cheese, and they were paired with potato wedges. The tacos were definitely a knife-and-fork rather than a handheld affair, and they delivered all the right flavor notes. The accompanying potatoes were well-seasoned and perfectly crisp. All told, it made for a salty but satisfying and filling meal.

Fleet Coffee

 

Located at 804 Congress Avenue with additional locations on Webberville Road and on Manor Road, Fleet Coffee serves coffee from several local roasters as well as teas, tacos, pastries, and more. It is open from 8-3 on weekdays and closed weekends. Online ordering is available.

 

This location of Fleet is a walkup counter rather than a full-blown shop, but if you don’t need space to sit, you’ll probably be satisfied with what you get. There was a short line when I arrived though it moved quickly thanks to very efficient baristas. I went with a cinnamon toast crunch cold brew. While it was expensive ($7.25 for a 16 ounce), it was possibly the best coffee I had in downtown Austin: smooth, sweet, bold, and complex. It also contained actual Cinnamon Toast Crunch pieces, so Fleet gets points for novelty.

Lancaster Brewing Company

 

Located at 3092 North Plum Street in downtown Lancaster (with additional locations on Lincoln Highway and in Harrisburg), Lancaster Brewing Company offers pub fare and beers brewed in house. It is open 4-8 Tuesday-Thursday, 12-9 Saturday, 12-8 Sunday, and closed Monday-Tuesday. There are daily food and drink specials, and online ordering and a private dining area are available.

 

In business for nearly thirty years, Lancaster Brewing Company has the brewpub concept down pat. The atmosphere is casual (albeit potentially fairly loud), and the dining area offers a view of the brewery tanks. Speaking of the beer, there are quite a few varieties to choose from – everything from nitro stouts to peanut butter ales — and LBC offers flights for those who want to try it all. The food selections are equally impressive. While you can find the requisite wings/burger/pizza here, LBC also defies expectations by offering up white chili or a chicken, leek, and lager pie.

 

My wife and I split an order of teriyaki fried cauliflower, a braided soft pretzel, and a burger meister and found the food to be very good. The cauliflower featured thick breading and a sweet teriyaki glaze. I could have eaten an entrée’s worth of it and have been satisfied. The pretzel was warm and pulled apart easily. Rather than being accompanied by separate cheese and mustard dips, its partner was a blend of beer cheese and mustard, strongly flavored but tasty if you don’t mind mustard. The burger featured fresh ground bratwurst, something that will leave you wondering where it was all your life. The accompanying fries were natural-cut, salty, and crisp.

 

While our server was friendly and helpful at the beginning of the meal, she vanished toward the end, and we were in for a wait to get our checks. LBC isn’t cheap for what it offers - $13 for the cauliflower, $16 for the burger – but the portions are at least sizeable.

 

If you want good beer, good food, and a dash of the unexpected, Lancaster Brewing Company is a very appealing option as long as you have the patience for high volume and a bit of a wait.

Vinnie's Brick Oven Pan Pizza

 

Located at 61 Main Street in Millburn, Vinnie’s Brick Oven Pan Pizza offers pizza and Italian dishes. It is open from 11-8 Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday, 11-9 Saturday and Sunday, and closed on Monday. Online ordering is available.

 

I promised my wife that we would find good pizza during a trip to New Jersey, and after a bit of searching, Vinnie’s seemed like it would be able to deliver. It’s a small spot – two tables inside, two tables outside – but the stacks of empty pizza boxes mark it as a popular one. They do sixteen-inch pies here (sorry, no slices) as well as sandwiches, pastas, and wings. After describing what we were looking for in a pizza, the young man at the counter suggested the Gramps (sweet Italian sausage, hot cherry pepper, and onions) with olives added, and we were sold.

 

Fifteen minutes later, we were digging into a glorious pie. The crust was thin without being floppy or greasy. The sauce and cheese were both high quality. The peppers added a nice burst of heat. Cheap it was not (upper $20s after the additional topping), but there are some things you can’t put a price on, and a sublimely delicious pizza is one of them.

 

Truthfully, I’m not back up North often enough to say how well Vinnie’s stacks up against other Union County pizza options (I grew up on Cioffi’s), but compared to much of what I’m used to in the Tarheel State (where good pizza is good often by virtue of innovative toppings), it more than holds its own.

The Rustic Spoon

Located at 1658 Pleasure House Road in Virginia Beach, The Rustic Spoon offers comfort food featuring local ingredients. It is open from 8-3 Sunday-Tuesday and 8-9 Wednesday-Saturday. There are daily food and drink specials, and patio seating is available.

Virginia Beach is our lunch stop on North Carolina-to-Delaware drives, and we wanted to try something different this time. The Rustic Spoon offered Scotch eggs, and that was enough to reel us in. Even if they weren’t on the menu, however, I would have been glad that we stopped here. The food, service, and atmosphere are all great.

A two-story eatery, The Rustic Spoon keeps busy but handles volume well. It’s lively without being cacophonous. Our server was friendly and willing to offer recommendations, which were needed given how many glorious-looking options the menu offered. In addition to the aforementioned Scotch eggs, there were benedicts and hashes and pancakes and waffles and burgers and sandwiches and salads galore. A Nashville hot chicken is usually a go-to for me, but here, it had plenty of competition.

Ultimately, my wife and I ended up with the Scotch eggs, a carnitas omelet, and a shrimp & grit cake. The eggs were breaded nicely and featured a tasty sauce. Both entrees came in sizeable portions and looked jaw-droppingly good. Fortunately, the appeal did not prove illusory. Every place has its own take on shrimp & grits, and the Rustic Spoon’s includes local sausage, tomato, and roasted red peppers. The absence of tons of cheese kept it from feeling too heavy, the shrimp were nicely cooked, and the firmness of the grit cake offered a welcome contrast to the sauce that surrounded it. The hearty carnitas scored points for tender, flavorful pork and crispy potatoes. Prices were moderate (entrees in the teens), but the food was worth every penny.

As much as we like to try new places when traveling, the Rustic Spoon may have to be a repeat offender. It does too much too well to be a one-and-done.

2520 Tavern

 

Located at 2520 Lewisville Clemmons Road in Clemmons, 2520 Tavern offers steaks, seafood, and cocktails as well as a Sunday brunch. It is open from 11-9 on Sunday and Tuesday-Friday, 4-9 on Saturday, and closed Monday. Online ordering is available.

Anticipating a visit to Old Nick’s afterward, our group of four sought a dinner option in the Clemmons/Lewisville area. 2520 moved toward the front of the line by virtue of not being a chain though the intriguing menu certainly bolstered its case as well. On food alone, 2520 offers the makings of an excellent meal, but the overall experience is mixed.

Though 2520 is spacious, the restaurant was full when we arrived on a Saturday night. No worries: the wait was hardly unbearable. 2520 slots in somewhere between sit-down casual and fine dining, and the atmosphere – low-key classy – reflects that.

As a seafood fan, I was pleased to see how many fish and seafood options 2520 had available. The appetizers alone boast calamari, muscles, Thai shrimp, and lobster nachos, and the entrees throw several fish dishes into the mix. For those less aquatically inclined, there are steaks, sandwiches, pastas, risottos, burgers, and salads. The menu is appealingly well-rounded though, oddly enough, cranberries feature in an inordinate number of dishes.

 

Our group started with a fried calamari, my wife opted for the peppery goat burger, and I tried the stuffed flounder. The calamari came not with the classic marinara but rather with roasted red pepper, cranberries (removable upon request), candied pecans, parmesan, and a citrus herb vinaigrette. This version was lighter than others yet still flavorful, and the calamari were cooked well. The flounder was preceded by a generously sized salad (I opted for Caesar) and was very good. It came with a rich scampi cream sauce, to which tomatoes added a bright and tangy note. Asparagus proved to be a welcome complement. The burger, though messy, featured a very tasty pepper jelly.

That said, 2520’s pricing and service are both up-and-down. The appetizer ($12) and the burger ($12.50 with a side included) were definitely reasonable though at close to $30, the stuffed flounder was a bit of a reach. Our server was polite, but we ended up waiting for close to a half hour just to get our checks. From what I’ve gathered, “slow” is the default speed rather than the product of heavy volume.

Were it not for these issues, I would gladly return to 2520. The food was good, and the menu holds plenty of promise. However, if I do come back, it would have to be on a day when I have time to spare.

Like a Dragon: Yakuza

 

Growing up in an orphanage under the protection of ex-yakuza Shintaro Kazama (Toshiaki Karasawa), Kazuma Kiryu, siblings Akira “Nishiki” and Miho Nishikiyama, and sisters Yumi and Aiko Sawamura form close bonds. When Kiryu decides to make a name for himself by joining the Yakuza, he drags his adoptive family into the criminal underworld with him. Years later, Kiryu (Ryoma Takeuchi) has been excommunicated for killing his boss. He is released from prison to find Nishiki (Kento Kaku) occupying that boss’s position, a masked assailant picking off yakuza left and right, Aiko (Misato Morita) missing along with a large amount of illicit money, Yumi (Yuumi Kawai) desperately searching for her, and the Tokyo-based Tojo Clan on the brink of war with the Omi Alliance of Kansai over the missing money. As Kiryu, the clan’s former enforcer turned persona non grata, reluctantly reenters his old life, everything threatens to fall apart around him.

 

SEGA’s long-running Yakuza/Like a Dragon video game franchise spans more than a half-dozen games released over nearly two decades that encompass everything from political scandals to intense family drama to too-wacky-to-describe slapstick, all of which renders a faithful television adaptation an impossibility. Amazon Studios took a broad strokes approach to adapting the first game’s plot, covering many of the key events albeit with significant alterations, some for the better, and several for the worse. While fidelity is not and should not be a byword for quality, one couldn’t help but wonder if hewing closer to the source material in this case would have yielded a better result.

 

Positives first: Kaku does an excellent job as Nishiki, embodying his desperation to keep the terminally ill Miho alive, his regard for and later resentment toward Kiryu, and his iciness as his ambition grows. While Kiryu is a challenging character to play – he can come across as a flat “stoic warrior” stereotype in clumsy hands – Takeuchi acquits himself reasonably well. That he isn’t the sole protagonist here reduces the amount of heavy lifting required.

 

The series’ production values are solid if unspectacular: the Tokyo nightlife isn’t as impressively rendered as it is in Tokyo Vice, and the fight scenes don’t match the adrenaline or emotion of the games. That said, while it may not pop, it doesn't feel cheap or languid, either.

 

Among the changes made from the source material, not all are negative. Yumi, for all the personal significance she holds for Kiryu, was a fairly flat character in the first Yakuza game. Here, with her game actions split between Yumi and Aiko (an original character – Yumi invented a sister as a cover identity in the game), she’s given more room to grow and comes across as more competent and more tortured. However, this arguably comes at the expense of developing Haruka (her daughter in the game and Aiko’s in the series) and Kiryu’s protectiveness of her.

 

In other cases, the departures range from defensible to baffling. Series favorite Goro “Mad Dog” Majima (Munetaka Aoki) isn’t given much screen time, but then again, he wasn’t a major character in the first game, either. Masaya Kato looks nothing like the short, lecherous, toadlike Dojima (the murdered boss), but he retains the character’s greed and manipulativeness, and his added height actually makes him more imposing. However, other characters are practically unrecognizable in appearance, personality, or both. Tojo Clan chairman Masaru Sera, an unflappable dead ringer for Ken Watanabe in the games, is as played by Koichi Sato, a good deal older-looking and a good deal less composed when faced with danger.

 

Beyond that, Like a Dragon’s pacing is decidedly uneven. The series often seems to buckle under the weight of its multiple narrative threads. Rather than past and present or Kiryu’s, Nishiki’s, and Yumi/Aiko’s stories playing effectively off of one another to create tension, they sometimes feel as if they are competing for screen time.

 

All told, Like a Dragon is not a terrible show, just a disappointing one. The acting offers enough bright spots to suggest what might have been if the creators had a better feel for the source material and its audience.

Kalm Bistro

 

Located at 3557 S. Church Street in the Westbrook Shopping Center in Burlington, Kalm Bistro offers Vietnamese cuisine. It is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Online ordering is available.

I was on the way home from the Triangle, in need of lunch, and in possession of a banh mi craving, so geographic convenience more than anything led me to Kalm’s door. Tucked inside a plaza shared with a Food Lion, it isn’t much to look at inside or out. However, some of the best Vietnamese and Thai places are these too-easily ignored hole-in-the-wall joints, and Kalm proved to be no exception.

In addition to a few banh mi options, Kalm’s menu includes rice and noodle dishes, apps, boba tea, poke, and pho. There are several vegetarian selections as well as a kid’s menu. If I didn’t have a specific craving, I might have had a hard time choosing as several other dishes looked good.

I went with a classic Banh Mi Dac Biet (roast pork, sausage, and veggies on a baguette). Kalm’s preparation was different than I’ve had elsewhere: they serve the sandwich deconstructed with cilantro, cucumbers, carrot, daikon, and jalapeños on the side. This preempts patrons from picking out any toppings they don’t like. At any rate, the banh mi definitely hit the spot. The bread was very warm and flaky, and the meats were flavorful. The cucumbers, daikon, and carrots offered a refreshing balance to their saltiness.

Service here is also great. I got a greeting when I walked in, my order was taken and prepared quickly, and everyone was pleasant and polite throughout the meal.

For those despairing about Burlington’s food options, you needn’t have to drive far to find some welcome variety. Support local, keep Kalm, and carry on.

The Root Cellar Cafe & Catering

 

Located at 750 Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard in the Midtown Market plaza in Chapel Hill (with a second location in Pittsboro), The Root Cellar offers coffee, baked goods, breakfast and lunch. It is open from 8-3 daily. Catering, prepared meals, and online ordering are available.

 

The Root Cellar is one of those places that I wanted to like more than I actually did. On paper, it has a lot to offer, but it also leaves room for improvement in a few areas.

 

Though the name may suggest a cozy café, The Root Cellar is decidedly not that. This place is huge with plenty of seating and space. The restaurant/bakery occupies the front half while wine, beer, and a few grocery items for sale can be found toward the back. While you’re unlikely to be left waiting to find a table, it can get a bit loud in here.

 

For a breakfast/lunch place, The Root Cellar’s menu offers a good amount of variety. Go for a pastry, egg plate, or smoothie in the morning or a salad, sandwich, or wrap later in the day. The sandwiches show a variety of global influences, the pastries are made in-house, and the coffee uses Joe Van Gogh beans.

 

Ordering is a bit chaotic as lines approached the register from two different sides with no indication of which was the correct queue. The cashier, while not rude, very much seemed like she would rather be anywhere else.

 

Wanting something light to tide me over until lunch, I opted for a green smoothie and an herb cheddar biscuit. I didn’t have long to wait for either. The smoothie was a bit sweet, and, at $8.50, no bargain. On the other and, the biscuit – warm and savory – was delicious and a much more reasonable $3.

 

I wouldn’t rule out returning to The Root Cellar, but it’s not a place I would go out of my way to visit during future Chapel Hill trips, either.

Homicide: Life on the Street

In Baltimore, a homicide unit under the command of Al “Gee” Giardello (Yaphet Kotto) works to close cases and get justice for victims while fending off political pressure from police brass. The detectives include the mercurial Frank Pembleton (Andre Braugher), idealistic newcomer Tim Bayliss (Kyle Secor), wisecracking Meldrick Lewis (Clark Johnson), former student radical turned cynic John Munch (Richard Belzer), and others.

 

Given that I hold The Wire in such high regard, it may seem puzzling that I took so long to watch the show that was in many ways its forebearer. After all, Wire co-creator David Simon supplied the source material (a nonfiction book of the same name), and several future Wire cast members did Homicide first (plus, showrunner Tom Fontana of later Oz fame is no slouch in the creative department himself). So why the wait? Part of this was stubbornness: Homicide was not available to stream, and I kept waiting for that to change (Ironically, within a month of me caving and buying the DVD set, it finally did stream albeit on a service I don’t subscribe to without the original music intact). A bigger part, however, was fear of disappointment. For all the strength of its pedigree, Homicide was still 90s network television. Would I be able to appreciate it for what it was even if what it was pales in comparison to the prestige TV that followed?

 

The short answer is yes. The writing (courtesy of Simon, Fontana, Paul Attanasio, and James Yoshimura) is often very strong. Whereas its contemporary Law & Order (which shared a few crossover episodes with Homicide) gave its characters a few quirks, it was in many ways a textbook police procedural. Homicide, on the other hand, used that genre to tackle everything from racial politics to crises of faith and more. Its characters are fully formed, subject to bad decisions, and deeply affected by what they do. Rather than treating continuity as an afterthought, Bayliss, for instance, is still haunted by his first case at the series’ end. This isn’t to say that there aren’t missteps, however. Established characters are sometimes diminished to make room for new ones, and one modeled on Simon himself (videographer J.H. Brodie, played by Max Perlich) is unnecessary comic relief. NBC’s lack of confidence in the show early on also led to the first two seasons being short and made wonky pacing all but inevitable.

 

While their talents weren’t always utilized to the fullest extent, Homicide also boasted a hell of a cast. It was Braugher’s breakout series, and its easy to see why. Pembleton is a master interrogator and a dedicated detective, but he’s also contemptuous of just about everyone. Braugher can go from bored and indifferent to scarily intense in the blink of an eye. As his most frequent partner, Secor’s Bayliss doesn’t impress early on – he seemed like he was overacting – but that’s more a reflection of the character’s eager new guy status. He does a commendable job of adapting as Bayliss takes on more layers in later seasons. While they aren’t given nearly enough to do at times, Kotto and future Oscar winner Melissa Leo (as unflappable Sgt. Kay Howard) definitely have their moments as do less-loved latter season additions John Seda (Paul Falzone) and Giancarlo Esposito (FBI agent Mike Giardello, Gee’s son).

 

If nothing else, Homicide made excellent use of its guest stars. It boasted a poignant dramatic turn from Robin Williams (before he was known for such things) as a grieving widower and a tense father-son showdown between James Earl Jones and Jeffrey Wright. Some parts – such as Vincent D’Onofrio as an abrasive dying man and Moses Gunn (in his last role) as an accused child murderer – dared you to love and hate the characters all at once. On a more amusing note, Homicide also (SPOILER ALERT) had a penchant for former casting actors like Elijah Wood, Neal Patrick Harris, Jena Malone, and Steve from Blues Clues as manipulators and murderers.

 

Last but not least, the production values were, for network television, surprisingly good. The show made use of an eclectic assortment of 90s music to set the mood. The cinematography often favored documentary-like realism with occasional departures for better (the claustrophobic, stage play presentation inside the interrogation room during Gunn’s episode) or worse (the “stutter effect” repetition of the same shot in quick succession).

 

All told, Homicide is a victim of time and circumstance. When it aired in the 1990s, the very things that made it unique (racially diverse cast, character-driven approach, idiosyncratic choices, etc.) made it hard-pressed to get ratings. Were it to start anew today at an HBO or a Hulu, it would likely be better understood by the viewers it was trying to reach, but it would be far less revolutionary.