Thursday, November 19, 2020

The Nomad


Located at 122 West King Street in Hillsborough, The Nomad offers globally influenced small plates and craft cocktails. It is open from 4:30-9:30 p.m. Wednesday through Friday and 12-9:30 p.m. on Saturday. Indoor (via reservation) and outdoor seating are available as is online ordering.

 

A relative newcomer to the Hillsborough dining scene, The Nomad is the latest establishment from the team behind the Viceroy in Durham and the TanDurm food truck. As the name suggests, it features foods that tend to wander from one cuisine to the next (i.e. Indian meets Latin). It’s an ambitious concept, but the folks here have the chops to make it work.

 

They also happen to be friendly and welcoming people. We happened to wander by shortly before lunchtime opening on a Saturday just to check out a menu, and one of the owners offered a warm greeting. Our server was attentive and provided several helpful food and drink suggestions.

 

At a place like this, those suggestions can come in handy as the vast majority of The Nomad’s offerings sound appealing. Though the menu isn’t large, it offers a little bit of everything, including vegan and gluten free options. You can embrace the familiarity of a classic chicken pakora or masala or battered fish taco branch out into one of the fusion dishes like Thai chimichurri steak or paneer pimento.

 

We opted for a few small plates for our first time out, and though it was a tough decision, we settled on sweet potato-stuffed kolaches, fried yuca poutine, and Korean esquites. Food came out quickly and did not disappoint. The kolaches were thick and pleasantly doughy with a warm, curried filling. Yuca sticks made for an excellent potato substitute in the poutine, and the mushroom gravy was rich and savory even if the mushrooms were a bit chewy. The esquites (de-cobbed Mexican street corn) brought heat from its Gochujang sauce and dusting of chili lime, but the refreshing crema kept it from overwhelming the palate. While Korean tacos/burritos are nothing new, this particular Korean-Mexican combination was like nothing I’ve seen elsewhere. My wife also enjoyed the Salted Fig cocktail.

 






Hillsborough being Hillsborough, The Nomad isn’t exactly cheap, but it also is worth the money spent. You’re looking at $8-$10 for small plates, and three were enough to feed two hungry adults. EntrĂ©e-sized rice bowls run in the teens.

 

Opening amid the COVID pandemic has undoubtedly been a brutal experience for many restaurants, but from innovation to food quality to service, The Nomad has all the looks of a keeper. I look forward to returning the next time I’m in Orange County.