Sunday, September 21, 2014

The Drop

In Brooklyn, unassuming Bob Saginowski (Tom Hardy) tends bar for his Cousin Marv (James Gandolfini), the former owner who was pushed out by ruthless Chechen gangsters. The bar occasionally serves an underworld money drop, and a recent robbery leaves the Chechens angry and suspicious. Meanwhile, Bob finds himself caring for an abused and abandoned puppy brought to him by the mysterious Nadia (Noomi Rapace). Though he is reluctant at first, Bob takes to the dog, whom he dubs Rocco. Dog ownership brings Bob closer to Nadia, but it also invites trouble in the form of Eric Deeds (Matthias Schoenaerts), Rocco’s psychotic former owner.

Though modern Brooklyn has gentrified in recent years, the borough remains a go-to backdrop for mean streets and shady doings. That The Drop would make use of this locale is no surprise. That it would do it so well despite its pedigree is a bit of a shocker. Writer Dennis Lehane, who adapted his short story “Animal Rescue” is a diehard Bostonian while director Michael Roskam is a Belgian making his American film debut. Add to that a cast led by an Englishman and a Swede, and it’s amazing how convincing this film pulls off “the neighborhood.”

Of course, sense of place isn’t the only asset here. The pacing is wonderfully taut with nary a wasted minute (at least until the last five or so). Roskam’s camera work and Marco Beltrami’s score work to imbue paranoid tension. Watching the goings-on leaves you with the unavoidable sense that something terrible is going to happen, but Lehane’s story cleverly plays with whom the audience expects to find in the crossfire.

This misdirection is made possible by Hardy’s complex, layered performance. Like his idol Gary Oldman, Hardy has proven capable of incredible transformation, and he slips seamlessly into his role here. We see Bob as something of a laid-back loser, but we also know, through bits of dialogue and pivotal gestures (he seems awfully handy with saran wrap) that there is more to him than meets the eye.

Hardy is very nearly equaled by Gandolfini, who makes his last performance a memorable one. At first, the bearded, balding Marv seems like an anti-Tony Soprano, a washed-up schlub grubbing for lost respect. However, the two characters actually have quite a bit in common. Like Tony, Marv is a bad man made sympathetic by his generosity toward friends and family and the presence of even worse people around him. And like Tony, Marv will lie, scheme, and use violence for personal gain, all while still garnering his share of apologists and defenders.

The remaining portrayals are somewhat less glowing. Rapace gives Nadia some street smarts and mystique, but her accent slips to a distracting degree. Schoenaerts plays Deeds like a pathetic-if-volatile mental case rather than a classic bully, which makes him simultaneously easier to believe and to dismiss. John Ortiz, the cast’s rare actual Brooklynite, plays well off of Hardy as a sly detective who knows more than he lets on.

If there is one knock against The Drop, it is that it isn’t transformative. It doesn’t deconstruct or rehabilitate the crime film or call attention to the genre the way that Goodfellas did, and there is an air of familiarity about it. It is less “epic” and more “story,” but it is a story that is told nearly perfectly.


8.25/10

Sunday, September 7, 2014

Chef Samir Shaltout

Located at 4212 West Wendover Avenue in Greensboro, Chef Samir Shaltout serves Egyptian cuisine for lunch and dinner. Hot and cold appetizers, salads, beef/chicken/fish/seafood/vegetarian entrees, tagines, pasta dishes, and desserts are among the menu offerings. Alcohol is not served, but catering is available.

Television is flooded these days with clueless wannabe restaurateurs who are in dire need of rescuing (often by a stern, British-accented kitchen veteran). Chef Samir Shaltout is the antithesis of all that. His eponymous eatery serves up fantastic food, crafted with competence and care. Whether a newcomer to Egyptian cuisine or one who knows what to expect, there is a lot to love here.

The location isn’t one of those things. Sharing a plaza with a Staples on Wendover, the establishment is small and awkwardly placed. The dark interior isn’t by any means shabby, but it lacks the colorful ambiance of a Cleopatra’s. In the grand scheme of things, however, this proves to be quite a minor letdown.

Chef Samir’s menu is varied and large. It offers most of the familiar Egyptian staples – hummus, babaganoush, falafel, shawerma, kabobs, etc. – as well as some appeals to the American propensity for eating large (cases-in-point: a half duck or a whole fish fried or broiled). For our first visit, we opted for a babaganoush starter and a mixed grill (chicken and beef shawerma, chicken, beef and kofta kabobs, rice, and salad). The appetizer was creamy and fresh with lemon notes. All of the meats in the entrĂ©e were juicy and well-seasoned, and the kofta kabob in particular had a lot of flavor. The herb rice, however, seemed too understated.

Pricing here is as varied as the menu. Appetizers run $4 to $6 and most entrees are in the teens. However, you can easily build a meal through a few of the starters. In addition, the mixed grill proved a good option for two: there’s no plate sharing fee. For $19, the portion was certainly adequate though plating could have been a touch more delicate (everything was piled together on one dish).

Thankfully, the service was held to the same standard as the food. Our server was friendly and fast. He happily shared favorite dishes and answered questions. Chef Samir dutifully made his rounds as well, a welcome gesture of accommodation.

A deep menu and consistent execution are often at odds with each other, but Chef Samir proves that both are attainable in the right hands. If you can get over the location, you’ll likely leave happy.


8.5/10


Chef Samir Shaltout on Urbanspoon

Monday, September 1, 2014

Foothills Brewing

Located at 638 West Fourth Street in downtown Winston-Salem, Foothills Brewing serves craft beers and brewpub fare (apps, soups, salads, sandwiches, and entrees). There are daily specials and specialty beers rotate seasonally. Catering, party hosting, and outdoor seating are available. Foothills also hosts live music and entertainment.

After sampling their wares at a local event a little while back, Foothills became a must-see for our next visit to Winston. The in-person experience did not disappoint. The spacious pub is adorned with brick and wood for a classic look, and there are different areas (dining room, bar, and patio) to accommodate different seating preferences. The real draw here is the selection. From the dozen-plus locally brewed beers to the unexpectedly versatile (Vegetarian? At a brewpub?) menu, there is quite a bit to like beyond the anticipated wings and burgers.

For our first visit, we started with Ale-Battered Shrooms. They were batter-heavy – which was not a problem, the batter was good – and came with both a tasty homemade ranch and a mild horseradish sauce. There were quite a few to the plate, which helped justify the $6.99 pricetag. I then followed this with the Brewhouse Cuban. The juicy, beer-braised pulled pork gave the sandwich a flavor unlike any other Cuban I’ve ever encountered, and it – along with the mustard (a combination of three different types) – made for a delectable bite. The fries that accompanied it were nice and crisp though in the future, I’ll ask for traditional ketchup. The house-made ale-infused variety was oddly sweet. My companion, who opted to go lighter with a Greek Vegetable Pita, seemed satisfied with both the fresh vegetables and the warm, fluffy bread. Her side, a cucumber-tomato-feta salad, was similarly successful.

Both sandwiches were $9.99 apiece with a side included (premium sides, such as homemade chips, invite an upcharge), way north of being a bargain, but not high enough to merit outrage. Service was a just bit on the slow side though our server was helpful in making recommendations, steering my companion toward a coffee porter that was clean, bold, and free from bitterness.

On a busy Friday or Saturday night, Foothills Brewery may tell quite a different story, but on a Monday afternoon, it met and surpassed all expectations. And while it may not impress well-traveled pubsters, it safely ranks among the best breweries the Triad has to offer.


8.5/10

Foothills Brewing on Urbanspoon